Where should you stay in Okinawa? It matters more than many people think. Naha is practical if you don’t have a car, but the best beaches are one to two hours to the north or on entirely different islands. Here are my seven suggestions, with three hotels in each.

Where to Stay in Okinawa: The Best Areas

• Naha and Kokusai-dori - best area for first-timers and anyone without a car
• Chatan and American Village - best area for sunsets, food and shopping
• The Onna Coast - best area for beach resorts in the middle of the island
• The Motobu Peninsula - best area for families and the Churaumi Aquarium
• The Kerama Islands - best area for snorkelling and peace and quiet
• Miyako-jima - best island for white beaches and long bridges
• Ishigaki - best base for the Yaeyama Islands

I’ll start with the four areas on the main island, from south to north, then the Kerama Islands off Naha, and finally Miyako and Ishigaki, which you’ll need to fly to. For each place you’ll get a map, travel times and three hotels: the most expensive first, then a mid-range option and finally one for a smaller budget. The prices come from a search for a weekend in March for two people, and they rise sharply during Golden Week around the turn of April and May and during the Japanese summer holidays.

Okinawa isn’t Tokyo. Outside Naha there are no trains, and the buses are slow, so on the main island I would hire a car at the airport or after a few days in Naha. You drive on the left, as in the rest of Japan (and the UK), and most resorts have free parking, whereas hotels in Naha often charge for it. 1,000 yen is roughly £4.80.

1. Naha and Kokusai-dori - best area for first-time visitors and travellers without a car 🏙️

• 📍 Distance to the centre: You’re staying in the centre. Kokusai-dori runs through the middle of Naha, and most hotels are just a few minutes’ walk from a monorail station.
• 🚝 Transport: The Yui Rail monorail runs from the airport through the city to Shuri and on to Tedako-Uranishi. For everything else, you can walk, take the bus or hop in a taxi.
• ✈️ Time from Naha Airport: 13 minutes on the Yui Rail to Kenchomae at the western end of Kokusai-dori, and 16 minutes to Makishi at the eastern end.
• 💰 Price level: ¥ to ¥¥¥. The three hotels below cost around 10,700 to 26,500 yen (around £50 to £125) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Very safe, even late in the evening. The main things to watch out for are the touts in the Matsuyama nightlife district and the traffic when you cross the big roads.

If you’re wondering where to stay in Okinawa, Naha is the obvious starting point: it’s Okinawa’s capital and the city almost everyone flies into. The main street, Kokusai-dori, is just under two kilometres long and packed with souvenir shops, izakayas and bars, and from it the covered market streets lead to Makishi Public Market, where you buy fish on the ground floor and have it cooked for you on the first floor. A little to the south-east lies Tsuboya, the pottery street, with small workshops and cobbled alleys.

Shuri Castle sits on the hill above the city, and it was from here that the Ryukyu kings ruled for centuries. The castle grounds are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but the main hall burned down in 2019 and is being rebuilt, so check Shurijo Castle Park’s official website before you head up there. From Makishi, the monorail takes you to Shuri in around ten minutes.

See hotels in Naha here.

I’d stay here if you only have a few days, don’t want to drive, or are landing late. The Yui Rail runs from the airport to Kenchomae for 290 yen (around £1.40), and the trip to Makishi costs 320 yen (around £1.50). Boats to the Kerama Islands leave from Tomari Port in the city, and if you don’t have a car, you can join a guided bus tour to the Churaumi Aquarium and the north of the island that starts in Naha.

The downside is that Naha is a city, not a beach resort. The only city beach, Naminoue, sits beneath a road bridge, and traffic on the main Route 58 often grinds to a halt during rush hour. Matsuyama, just north of Kokusai-dori, is the city’s nightlife area with hostess bars, so just say no thanks to the touts on the street, and ask for a room away from the road if you’re a light sleeper. On the plus side, Naha is the easiest place to start and end your trip, as the airport is close by.

Hotels in Naha

Hyatt Regency Naha, Okinawa - five-star hotel with a pool in the heart of the city

The Hyatt Regency is in Makishi, a couple of hundred metres south of Kokusai-dori, so you can walk to the market streets and the monorail in a few minutes. The hotel has an outdoor pool in summer, a gym, several restaurants and service that guests praise again and again. Several guests do feel, however, that the rooms are a little small for the price.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “The staff couldn’t do enough for you. A lovely stay.”

See photos and book Hyatt Regency Naha here.

HOTEL STRATA NAHA - modern hotel with a pool and garden close to Kokusai-dori

Hotel Strata is in Makishi on the northern side of Kokusai-dori, a short walk from the main street and from Matsuyama’s restaurants. There’s an outdoor pool in summer, a garden, a terrace, a gym, a bar and a restaurant, and its score is one of the highest in the city. The rooms, on the other hand, are small, and several guests weren’t prepared for that.

From one review: “The whole place was fantastic, and the hotel itself was beautiful. Five stars all the way.”

See photos and book Hotel Strata Naha here.

Hotel Naha City Kokusai Street - budget hotel right on Kokusai-dori

Hotel Naha City is in Matsuo in the western part of Kokusai-dori, so the main street is right outside and Kenchomae Station isn’t far away. It’s a simple three-star hotel with a 24-hour reception, a sun terrace and an on-site convenience store, and it was the cheapest of my three suggestions in Naha when I searched. One guest complains that the washing machines didn’t work properly.

One of the guests highlights: “All the staff are super friendly.”

See photos and book Hotel Naha City here.

2. Chatan and American Village - best area for sunsets, food and shopping 🌅

• 📍 Distance to the centre: About 15 kilometres north of Naha. American Village is itself the centre of Chatan, and the three hotels are a few minutes’ walk from the shops and the beach.
• 🚗 Transport: A car is the easiest option. Local buses run along Route 58 to Naha, but they sit in the same traffic as the cars.
• ✈️ Time from Naha Airport: About 30 to 45 minutes by car or taxi, depending on the traffic.
• 💰 Price level: ¥¥ to ¥¥¥¥. The three hotels below cost around 22,400 to 45,200 yen (roughly £105 to £215) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Safe. Lots of American soldiers from the nearby bases go out here, so weekend evenings can get noisy around the bars.

Chatan sits on the west coast between Naha and the beaches further north, and it’s one of the most popular bases on the whole island. At its heart is Mihama American Village, a colourful area of shops, restaurants, cafés and a Ferris wheel, built on land the US military handed back to Okinawa. The atmosphere is a mix of Japan and California, which makes sense, as the American bases are just around the corner.

A promenade runs along the water from Depot Island to Sunset Beach, where people gather as the sun sinks into the sea. A little to the south is Araha Beach, which is quieter and good for children, and to the north divers walk straight into the water from the sea wall at Sunabe. For dinner you can choose anything from burgers and tacos to Okinawan soba and sushi, and many places stay open late.

See hotels in Chatan here.

I’d stay here if you want a bit of everything: beach, good restaurants, shopping and a lively evening out without a long drive. From Chatan it’s under an hour by car to both Naha and the Onna coast, and with an early start you can fit in the Churaumi Aquarium as a day trip. It’s also a good choice for your last nights before flying home, as the airport is close by.

The downside is that Chatan isn’t about palm-fringed beaches and peace and quiet. The beaches are small and man-made, the hotels are packed close together, and at weekends parking around American Village can be hard to find. If you’re after a classic resort holiday with your own beach, you’ll get more for your money further north on the Onna coast.

Hotels in Chatan

Hilton Okinawa Chatan Resort - large resort with a kids’ club at Sunset Beach

The Hilton is at the northern end of American Village with Sunset Beach right in front. There’s an indoor and outdoor pool, a waterslide, a kids’ club, a spa and a sauna, which makes it an obvious choice for families. Wi-Fi costs extra, and several guests feel the price is high.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “The location and the spacious, clean rooms.”

See photos and book Hilton Okinawa Chatan Resort here.

Vessel Hotel Campana Okinawa - rooftop pool and public bath in the middle of American Village

Vessel Hotel Campana is on the waterfront at Depot Island in the middle of American Village, so you have shops and restaurants right outside the door. There’s a rooftop pool, a large public bath and a sauna, and the breakfast gets praise. A few guests complain about hard pillows.

From a review: “The breakfast was varied.”

See photos and book Vessel Hotel Campana here.

La’gent Hotel Okinawa Chatan Hotel and Hostel - budget hotel and hostel a few minutes from the beach

La’gent is in Mihama, a couple of hundred metres north of American Village, with Sunset Beach and the waterfront hotels within walking distance. There are both standard rooms and hostel beds, a restaurant, a laundry and pushchairs to borrow, and it was the cheapest of the three when I searched. As at Vessel, some guests complain about hard pillows.

One guest highlights: “The staff are really friendly, and the hotel is in very good condition.”

See photos and book La’gent Hotel Okinawa Chatan here.

3. Onna Coast - best area for beach resorts in the middle of the island 🏖️

• 📍 Distance to the centre: About 40 kilometres north of Naha. Onna is a long stretch of coast with no real centre, and the hotels are spread out along Route 58 from Moon Beach to Cape Manzamo.
• 🚗 Transport: Car. The Okinawa Airport Shuttle runs from the airport to the big resorts, but otherwise the buses are slow and infrequent.
• ✈️ Time from Naha Airport: About an hour by car via the expressway. The airport bus takes anywhere from just over an hour to two hours, depending on the hotel.
• 💰 Price level: ¥¥ to ¥¥¥¥. The three hotels below cost around 17,000 to 37,600 yen (around £80 to £180) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Very safe. The biggest risk is the sea, so swim at the lifeguarded beaches and keep an eye on the jellyfish warning signs in summer.

Onna is Okinawa’s resort coast. Along the west coast you’ll find one beach hotel after another, each with a pool, its own beach and a coral reef just offshore, and the water is turquoise and calm for most of the year. This is where the Japanese come for weddings and honeymoons, and where lots of families spend a whole week without ever leaving the hotel.

The best-known stop is the cliff at Cape Manzamo, which looks like an elephant dipping its trunk into the sea. A short path runs along the clifftop, and it’s at its most beautiful at sunset, when crowds gather on the rocks to watch the sun sink into the sea. There’s a small entrance fee to the area. Further south is Cape Maeda with the Blue Cave, a grotto where sunlight turns the water a glowing blue, and you can get inside on a guided snorkelling trip to the Blue Cave. On Route 58 you’ll find the Onna no Eki market, where you can buy fruit and ice cream.

See hotels in Onna here.

I’d stay here if you want the beach, the pool and the sunset right outside the door and don’t miss nightlife in the evenings. Onna is also handily placed in the middle of the island, so both Chatan and the Churaumi Aquarium are doable as day trips. If you don’t have a car, the Okinawa Airport Shuttle runs directly from the airport to the biggest resorts, and you can then hire a car for a single day later in your holiday. Several of the resorts also have dive centres that will take you out to the reefs off the coast.

The downside is that you’re dependent on your hotel. Restaurants are few and far between, most resorts aren’t within walking distance of each other, and the hotels’ own restaurants are expensive. Expect to drive for dinner, or choose a hotel with half board.

Hotels in Onna

Hyatt Regency Seragaki Island Okinawa - five-star resort on its own little island

The Hyatt Regency sits on the small island of Seragaki, linked to the coast by a short bridge, so you have beach and sea on every side. There are indoor and outdoor pools, a kids’ club, a spa and several restaurants, and guests praise the large, clean rooms. The downside is that there aren’t many cheap places to eat nearby.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “Friendly and polite staff. Clean, large rooms and toilets.”

See photos and book Hyatt Regency Seragaki Island here.

HOTEL MOON BEACH MUSEUM RESORT - classic beach hotel on the crescent-shaped Moon Beach

Hotel Moon Beach is on Moon Beach in the southern part of Onna, with a private beach area, indoor and outdoor pools and art exhibitions in the communal areas. It’s one of the coast’s classic resorts, and prices are well below those of the newest five-star hotels. One guest experienced some confusion over extra beds for the children, so state it clearly in your booking if you’re bringing kids.

From one review: “Lovely hotel with professional staff.”

See photos and book Hotel Moon Beach here.

Hotel Miyuki Beach - budget-friendly beach hotel at the northern end of Onna

Hotel Miyuki Beach is in Afuso, north of Cape Manzamo, with its own beach, an outdoor pool in summer and free parking. It’s a simple three-star hotel, but the views from the rooms get plenty of praise, and it was the cheapest of my three picks on the coast when I searched. The breakfast, on the other hand, gets poor reviews, so you’re better off eating out.

One guest highlights: “The view from the rooms is fantastic, and the private beach is beautiful.”

See photos and book Hotel Miyuki Beach here.

4. Motobu Peninsula - best area for families and Churaumi Aquarium 🐋

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Around 90 kilometres north of Naha by road. The hotels are at Ocean Expo Park and Bise on the north-western tip of the peninsula and on the island of Sesoko.
• 🚗 Transport: Car. The Okinawa Airport Shuttle runs from the airport to Churaumi Aquarium and the hotels by the park, but otherwise buses are few and far between.
• ✈️ Time from Naha Airport: Around one and a half to two hours by car. The airport bus takes just under two hours to the aquarium.
• 💰 Price level: ¥¥ to ¥¥¥¥. The three hotels below ranged from around 19,300 to 54,200 yen (around £90 to £260) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Very safe and quiet. The roads are narrow and dark in the evening, so drive carefully after sunset.

The Motobu Peninsula is Okinawa’s family corner. This is where you’ll find Ocean Expo Park with Churaumi Aquarium, where whale sharks and manta rays glide around the huge Kuroshio Sea tank. Tickets cost 2,180 yen (around £10) for adults, and outside peak season it’s open from 8.30am to 6.30pm. The dolphin show and the pools with sea turtles and manatees in the park outside are free.

Right next to the park is the village of Bise, with an avenue of old fukugi trees where narrow sandy paths wind between traditional houses. To the east, you drive across the roughly two-kilometre-long Kouri Bridge to Kouri Island, with pale blue water on both sides, and in the hills behind Motobu lie the ruins of Nakijin Castle, another Ryukyu-era fortress on the UNESCO list. From Motobu harbour, the ferry sails to Ie Island, and inside the park itself is Emerald Beach, with white sand and calm water right beside the aquarium.

See hotels on the Motobu Peninsula here.

I’d stay here if you’re travelling with children, or if the aquarium is top of your list. The aquarium is best in the morning, before the buses from Naha arrive, and you only get that if you stay nearby. This is where it really makes sense to hire a car, as the distances are long and the buses are infrequent.

The downside is the distance. It’s a long way to Naha and the airport, and in the evening there isn’t much to do apart from the hotel’s own restaurant. Plan at least two nights so the journey up here doesn’t eat into your holiday, and stay in Naha or Chatan on your last night before flying home. In return, you have the peace and the starry sky to yourself once the day-trippers have headed back south.

Hotels on the Motobu Peninsula

The Orion Hotel Motobu Resort & Spa - five-star resort right by the aquarium

Orion Motobu is in Bise at the northern end of Ocean Expo Park, so you can walk to the aquarium and the beach in the park. The hotel has hot springs, indoor and outdoor pools, a spa and a beach right out front, and guests give it top marks. It’s also the most expensive hotel in the whole guide, and a few guests felt the experience didn’t match the price.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “We love everything about the hotel! This was our third trip here.”

See photos and book The Orion Hotel Motobu here.

Hilton Okinawa Sesoko Resort - beach hotel on Sesoko Island with sea views

The Hilton sits right on the beach on Sesoko, a small island linked to Motobu by a bridge, around 15 to 20 minutes by car from the aquarium. There are indoor and outdoor pools, a spa and a free shuttle bus, and the breakfast buffet gets plenty of praise. Wi-fi costs extra, and one guest writes that the hotel was full of small children, so if you’re travelling without kids, this isn’t the place for peace and quiet.

From a review: “Fantastic hotel right on the beach with great views and a lovely breakfast buffet.”

See photos and book Hilton Okinawa Sesoko Resort here.

Royal View Hotel Churaumi - the cheapest way to stay right by the aquarium

Royal View Hotel Churaumi is at Ocean Expo Park, and according to guests you can walk to the aquarium in about five minutes. It’s a three-star hotel with an outdoor pool in summer, free parking and a games room, and it was the cheapest of the three when I searched. The building is older, and several guests mention wear and dirt on the furniture, the wallpaper and in the bathroom.

One guest highlights: “The hotel was right next to the aquarium, so we could walk over in five minutes after breakfast.”

See photos and book Royal View Hotel Churaumi here.

5. Kerama Islands - best area for snorkelling and peace and quiet 🐢

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Around 40 kilometres west of Naha. Zamami and Aka are small islands with one village each, and everything is within walking or cycling distance of the harbour.
• ⛴️ Transport: Boat from Tomari Port in Naha. On the islands, you walk, cycle or take the local bus to the beaches.
• ✈️ Time from Naha Airport: Around 15 minutes by taxi to Tomari Port, then around 50 minutes on the high-speed boat or two hours on the ferry.
• 💰 Price level: ¥¥ to ¥¥¥¥. The three places to stay below cost around 16,200 to 50,400 yen (around £75 to £240) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Very safe. Respect the signs about currents and swimming bans, and never snorkel alone outside the marked areas.

The Kerama Islands lie a short boat trip west of Naha and became a national park in 2014 thanks to their coral reefs and the clear water the Japanese call Kerama Blue. The three islands most people visit are Tokashiki, Zamami and Aka. Furuzamami on Zamami and Nishibama on Aka are among the most beautiful beaches in Japan, and at Ama Beach, just outside the village on Zamami, you’ll often see sea turtles grazing in the shallow water.

From January to March, humpback whales come to the waters around the islands, and from the viewpoints on the hills above Zamami you can watch them blow. In the evening the villages are completely quiet and there are only a few restaurants, so check whether your accommodation serves dinner, or book a table in advance.

See hotels in the Kerama Islands here.

I would stay here for one or two nights if you want to snorkel, dive or simply lie on a white beach once the day-trippers have sailed home. The Queen Zamami high-speed boat runs from the north side of Tomari Port to Zamami and Aka in around 50 minutes and costs 3,950 yen (around £19) each way for adults, while Ferry Zamami from the south side takes around two hours and costs 2,900 yen (around £14). On top of that there’s an island tax of 100 yen (around 50p). If you only have one day, you can take a snorkelling trip to the Kerama Islands from Naha instead.

The downside is that the boats are cancelled in rough seas and are sometimes out of service for maintenance, so check the timetable before you travel, and never plan to sail back on the same day you fly home. Seats also sell out during the summer holidays and around Japanese public holidays, so book well ahead.

Hotels in the Kerama Islands

AKA LODGE by THE TERRACE HOTELS - small luxury hotel on the island of Aka

Aka Lodge is in the village on Aka, and according to Booking.com it’s two minutes from Maehama beach. It’s a five-star hotel with a restaurant and terrace, run by The Terrace Hotels chain, which also operates several of Okinawa’s well-known resorts. The hotel is new and has only a few reviews so far, and one guest felt the dinner was too Western.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “The place had a perfect location. Close to all the beaches.”

See photos and book Aka Lodge here.

Shima Stay holoholo - small guesthouse five minutes from the harbour on Zamami

Shima Stay holoholo is in the village on Zamami, around a five-minute walk from the harbour and 13 minutes from Furuzamami Beach. It’s a simple guesthouse with soundproofed rooms and free parking, and the staff get a great deal of praise. One guest missed having an extra table or chair in the room.

From a review: “The staff are so lovely and helpful.”

See photos and book Shima Stay holoholo here.

Yenn’s Marina Inn Zamami Condominium - apartment hotel in the village on Zamami

Yenn’s Marina Inn is around a ten-minute walk from the harbour on Zamami and 13 minutes from Furuzamami Beach. It’s a small apartment hotel with a terrace and playground, and it was the cheapest of the three when I searched. One guest writes that the shower had too little pressure.

One of the guests highlights: “The owner was very kind, and it’s within walking distance of the ferry.”

See photos and book Yenn’s Marina Inn here.

6. Miyako-jima - best island for white beaches and long bridges 🌉

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Around 300 kilometres south-west of Naha. Hirara is the island’s town, and the Shigira resort area is about ten kilometres to the south-east.
• 🚗 Transport: Car. There are buses, but they’re infrequent, and the beaches and bridges are spread out across the whole island.
• ✈️ Time from Naha Airport: About 50 minutes by plane to Miyako Airport, and there are also direct flights from Tokyo and Osaka.
• 💰 Price level: ¥ to ¥¥¥¥. The three hotels below cost roughly 11,100 to 53,500 yen (around £55 to £255) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Very safe. Currents can be strong along the rocky coasts, so swim at the lifeguarded beaches.

Miyako-jima is a flat coral island far to the south-west, and it has a reputation for the clearest water in Okinawa. The best-known beach is Yonaha Maehama, which according to the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) stretches for about seven kilometres of fine white sand. To the north and west, long bridges link Miyako with the smaller islands of Ikema, Kurima and Irabu, and the Irabu Bridge is around 3.5 kilometres long and free to drive across.

Hirara is the island’s town, with a harbour, supermarkets and izakayas, and in the evening this is where things happen. Shigira on the south coast is a large resort area with several hotels, a golf course and a beach, and at Imgya Marine Garden you can snorkel straight from the shore in a sheltered bay. At the island’s eastern tip, the Higashi-Hennazaki peninsula juts out into the sea with a lighthouse at the end and views on both sides. If you’d like help finding the sea turtles, there’s also a snorkelling tour with sea turtles.

See hotels on Miyako-jima here.

I’d choose Miyako if the beach is the main purpose of your trip and you have at least three nights. Stay in Shigira if you want the resort and the pool, and in Hirara if you want to eat out in the evening and save money. Hire a car at the airport and you can reach most of the beaches and all the bridges in a day or two. If you’re coming from Tokyo, you can fly directly here and skip Naha.

The downside is that Miyako is a long way from everything else. You have to fly here, the resorts are expensive in high season, and outside Hirara restaurants are few and far between in the evening. In winter it can be very windy, and the water is then too cold for many people to fancy a swim.

Hotels on Miyako-jima

Shigira Bayside Suite Allamanda - five-star suites with views over the bay in Shigira

Allamanda is in the Shigira area on the south coast, with large suites, several outdoor pools and beach access, plus a free shuttle bus to the airport. It’s the most expensive hotel on Miyako in this guide. A few guests mention maintenance issues and miss having a bar at the hotel.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “The view over the bay from the room and the access to the beach and the pools.”

See photos and book Shigira Bayside Suite Allamanda here.

Hotel Shigira Mirage Beach Front - newer hotel right on the beach in Shigira

Hotel Shigira Mirage Beach Front sits right on the beach in Shigira, with an outdoor pool, hot springs and a free shuttle bus around the resort area. It’s a newer four-star hotel with a high score but still relatively few reviews. One family notes that you can’t hire flippers until nine in the morning.

From a review: “Incredible location. Incredible staff, good food.”

See photos and book Hotel Shigira Mirage Beach Front here.

Hotel Locus - modern waterfront hotel with a pool in Hirara

Hotel Locus is on the waterfront in the western part of Hirara, with a heated outdoor pool, an outdoor bath, a restaurant and a bar. From here it’s not far to the town’s restaurants, and it was the cheapest of my three suggestions on Miyako when I searched. One guest points out that the area is quite dark in the evening.

One guest highlights: “Clean and really helpful staff.”

See photos and book Hotel Locus here.

7. Ishigaki - best base for the Yaeyama Islands 🛶

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Just over 400 kilometres south-west of Naha. Ishigaki town and the ferry terminal are on the south coast, and the three hotels are no more than about four kilometres from there.
• ⛴️ Transport: Ferries from Ishigaki Port Remote Island Terminal to the other Yaeyama Islands. On Ishigaki itself, a car is the easiest option.
• ✈️ Time from Naha Airport: About an hour by plane to New Ishigaki Airport, then around 30 minutes by bus to the ferry terminal. There are also direct flights from Tokyo and Osaka.
• 💰 Price level: ¥ to ¥¥¥. The three hotels below cost about 10,600 to 33,400 yen (around £50 to £160) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Very safe. Respect the swimming ban in Kabira Bay, where the currents are strong.

Ishigaki is the largest island in the Yaeyama group and the gateway to some of the most tropical corners of Japan. The harbour town is small, with a covered market street, and the island’s biggest attraction is Kabira Bay on the north-west coast, where you can glide over the coral reefs in a glass-bottom boat. Swimming isn’t allowed in the bay itself, but a little further north is Sukuji Beach, with calm, shallow water. In the evening, you can try Ishigaki beef, the island’s famous speciality, at the restaurants in town.

The real draw, though, is the islands around it. From the ferry terminal, boats take about 15 minutes to Taketomi, with its water buffalo and red-roofed houses, and just under an hour to the jungle and mangroves of Iriomote. If you want to snorkel, you can take a boat trip to the Hamajima sandbar, which almost disappears at high tide.

See hotels on Ishigaki here.

I would stay in town close to the harbour if you want to island-hop without a car, as you can then walk to the ferry every morning. If you’d rather have a beach and a pool, the resorts are a few kilometres east of town and up north at Kabira, but then you’ll need a car. Give Ishigaki and the surrounding islands at least three nights. The island is actually closer to Taiwan than to Naha, and if you want to combine the two, you can read my guide to where to stay in Taiwan.

The downsides are the distance and the weather. With transport to and from the airports, getting here from Naha takes up most of a day, and the ferries to Iriomote and the small islands are cancelled in rough weather, especially during typhoon season. Always build in an extra day before your flight home.

Hotels on Ishigaki

ANA InterContinental Ishigaki Resort by IHG - large beach resort on Maesato Beach

ANA InterContinental sits on Maesato Beach about four kilometres east of the ferry terminal, so you have the beach right in front of you and a short taxi ride into town. There are indoor and outdoor pools, a water slide, tennis courts and several restaurants. One guest complains that the restaurant closes early in the evening.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “Fantastic hotel. Everything was absolutely perfect.”

See photos and book ANA InterContinental Ishigaki here.

Art Hotel Ishigakijima - sky bar, pool and hot baths on the edge of town

Art Hotel is just over a kilometre north of the ferry terminal, with an outdoor pool in summer, a public bath, sauna, spa and a rooftop bar. The breakfast gets lots of praise, and the price is far below the beach resorts. One guest found that the pool and other facilities were closed on some days.

From a review: “Lovely room and great facilities, fantastic breakfast, wonderful sky bar, lovely pool and good hot baths.”

See photos and book Art Hotel Ishigakijima here.

Hotel East China Sea - budget hotel right by the ferry terminal

Hotel East China Sea is in Misaki-cho right next to the ferry terminal, so you can wheel your suitcase straight onto the boats to the other islands. It’s a simple three-star hotel with a restaurant and sun terrace, and it was the cheapest of the three when I searched. One guest didn’t feel particularly welcome on their most recent stay.

One guest highlights: “Really good location right next to the ferry port.”

See photos and book Hotel East China Sea here.

Where not to stay in Okinawa?

I wouldn’t stay in Naha for the whole holiday if you’re coming for the beaches. The city’s hotels are good for the first and last nights, but the best beaches are one to two hours away, and you’ll spend a lot of time in traffic on Route 58. I also wouldn’t stay far north in the Yanbaru forests on a first trip, unless you’re coming to hike, as everything else is a very long way away.

Don’t make Miyako or Ishigaki a day trip either. They’re flights away, and the islands deserve several nights. Also be wary of cheap hotels far from a monorail station in Naha if you don’t have a car, and of the small islands during typhoon season from summer to autumn, especially in August and September, when boats and flights can be cancelled at short notice.

If it’s your first trip to Okinawa, I would spend two nights in Naha and four to five nights in Onna or Chatan with a hire car, and if you have children with you, you can swap a couple of those nights for Motobu by the aquarium. With another week, you can add two nights on Zamami or fly on to Miyako or Ishigaki, which suit those who just want beaches and snorkelling.

Remember that you need an International Driving Permit under the 1949 Geneva Convention to drive in Japan, and that your national driving licence alone isn’t enough. If you’re coming from Tokyo, you’ll typically fly from Haneda, and my guide to getting to and from Narita and Haneda will help you on your way. If you’re combining Okinawa with the rest of the country, I’ve put together the best places to stay in Japan, and I also have guides to where to stay in Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka.

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