That’s why your choice of neighbourhood matters more here than in most big cities. If you stay close to what you want to see, you can walk or get by with a short taxi ride. Here are my six recommendations for where to stay in Mexico City, with hotels in three price ranges.

The Best Areas in Mexico City

• Roma Norte - best area for first-time visitors, food and cafés
• Condesa - best area for leafy streets, parks and quiet mornings
• Centro Histórico - best area for sightseeing and low prices
• Reforma & Juárez - best area for large hotels and being close to most things
• Polanco - best area for luxury, shopping and museums
• Coyoacán - best area for a village feel and Frida Kahlo

Below, I’ll take you through the six areas one by one, with hotels in three price ranges. Two things apply to all of them. The first is safety. The UK Foreign Office’s travel advice for Mexico says crime is a risk to foreign visitors, particularly in major cities and tourist resorts, and it doesn’t distinguish between the districts of the capital. The precautions are easy to follow: only use authorised taxis or well-known ride-hailing services, leave expensive jewellery at home and keep an eye on your belongings on the metro. The second is the altitude. At 2,240 metres, some people get short of breath and develop headaches, and the city’s tourism office recommends drinking extra water, avoiding alcohol and taking breaks along the way.

1. Roma Norte - best area for first-time visitors, food and cafés

• Distance from the centre: Just under 3.5 km south-west of the Zócalo.
• Transport: Metrobús Line 1 on Avenida Insurgentes, Insurgentes metro station on the northern edge of the area and Ecobici shared bikes.
• Time from the airport: An estimated 30 to 60 minutes by taxi from AICM, depending on the traffic.
• Price range: €€ to €€€€. Simple hotels along the big avenues and small, expensive boutique hotels in the side streets.
• Safety: There are lots of people out on the streets until late around Avenida Álvaro Obregón. Take a car home at night, and don’t leave your phone lying out at the pavement cafés.

Roma Norte is my first choice for a first trip to Mexico City. The neighbourhood is south-west of the centre and is full of cafés, taquerías, galleries and bars, on streets lined with big trees and old townhouses. The main street is Avenida Álvaro Obregón, and you can walk to most things from here.

The location is the big advantage. To the west, Roma Norte merges into Condesa, and to the north, Juárez and Paseo de la Reforma are around a kilometre away, so you can reach both on foot. Metrobús Line 1 runs along Avenida Insurgentes. The city’s tourism office calls it the main route to Roma and Condesa, and a ride costs 6 pesos.

See hotels in Roma Norte here.

From the airport, AICM, I’d take an authorised taxi. You buy your ticket at one of the counters in the arrivals area, and the airport itself states that these are the only taxis authorised to operate from there. Uber and DiDi are legal too and pick up just outside the terminal. Allow half an hour to an hour, depending on the traffic. That’s my estimate, because nobody can promise you a fixed journey time in this city.

What you need to know is that Roma Norte is noisy. Bars and restaurants stay open late, especially at weekends, and many of the small hotels are in older houses without a lift. If you’re a light sleeper, ask for a room facing the courtyard. The best boutique hotels are also expensive and often cost the same as a luxury hotel elsewhere in the city. That’s why my three suggestions cover the expensive end, the sensible middle and the cheap end.

Places to Stay in Roma Norte

Casa Izeba - small luxury hotel on Calle Colima in the middle of the neighbourhood

Casa Izeba is a small five-star hotel on Calle Colima in the middle of Roma Norte, around 500 metres from Insurgentes metro station. The rooms measure 24 to 34 m² and have air conditioning, and breakfast is included in the price. The hotel has a terrace and a restaurant serving Middle Eastern cuisine.

It’s my suggestion for a couple who want to stay within walking distance of the restaurants and would rather have a hotel with a personal feel than a big one. The price is high, and you’re paying for the location. The hotel has no pool, gym or lift, and children must be at least 12 years old. One guest had a restless night in a room facing the street, so ask for a quiet room if you’re a light sleeper.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “Amazing location, attentive staff and great breakfast.”

See photos and book Casa Izeba here.

Stanza Hotel - four-star hotel with a restaurant and free parking

At the eastern end of Avenida Álvaro Obregón, you’ll find Stanza Hotel, around 700 metres from Cuauhtémoc metro station. The rooms measure 25 to 30 m², and the hotel has a restaurant, a bar, a gym and free parking. Breakfast is served as a buffet or à la carte.

Here, you get an ordinary, well-run hotel at a price that’s usually well below what the neighbourhood’s boutique hotels charge. It’s a walk of around a kilometre to Avenida Insurgentes and the western part of Roma Norte. The decor is a little tired, according to several guests, and you can hear the corridor and the room next door through the doors.

Short and to the point from one guest on Booking.com: “Clean and comfortable. As advertised.”

See photos and book Stanza Hotel here.

Segovia Regency - older budget hotel right by Insurgentes metro station

Segovia Regency is on Avenida Chapultepec on the northern edge of Roma Norte, just over 100 metres from Insurgentes metro station and around 550 metres from the Ángel de la Independencia. The rooms measure 25 m², and the hotel has a restaurant serving Mexican food, a bar and free parking.

It’s my budget suggestion if you want to stay between Roma Norte and Reforma and would rather spend your money on food. The hotel is old, and it shows. Guests mention tired decor and noise, and one missed having air conditioning. Choose it for the price and the location, not for the room.

One guest sums it up on Booking.com: “Great value for money, happy with our stay.”

See photos and book Segovia Regency here.

2. Condesa - best area for leafy streets, parks and quiet mornings

• Distance from the centre: Around 4.5 km south-west of the Zócalo, just west of Roma Norte.
• Transport: Metrobús Line 1 on Avenida Insurgentes and the Chilpancingo and Chapultepec metro stations on the edge of the area.
• Time from the airport: An estimated 30 to 60 minutes by taxi from AICM, depending on the traffic.
• Price range: €€ to €€€€. Mostly small boutique hotels and apartment hotels, and the cheapest beds are in hostels.
• Safety: A quiet residential neighbourhood with lots of people in the parks during the day. The side streets are quiet late in the evening, so take a car for the last stretch.

Condesa is Roma Norte’s greener, quieter neighbour. Its heart is Parque México and Parque España, two parks just under 400 metres apart, and Avenida Ámsterdam loops around Parque México in an oval, with trees and a footpath down the middle.

It’s the area for you if you want to start the day with coffee and a walk under the trees. In the parks, you’ll meet dog walkers, runners and families with children, and the streets around them are packed with cafés and restaurants. It feels more like a residential neighbourhood than a city centre, and that’s exactly the point.

You’re still central here. From Parque México, it’s just over a kilometre to the middle of Roma Norte and around a kilometre and a half to Paseo de la Reforma, so you can walk to both. For Centro Histórico and Polanco, you’ll need a taxi, the Metrobús or the metro.

See hotels in Condesa here.

The hotels are different from those in the rest of the city. Condesa has few large hotels and mostly small boutique hotels and apartments, and several of them are in older buildings without air conditioning. Check before you book if that matters to you, and read what guests write about noise.

The downside is the distance to the major sights. The Zócalo is around 4.5 km away, and in rush hour, the drive can drag on. Several hotels also face busy Avenida Insurgentes, where guests mention noise at night, so look at the map before you book. If you want as much going on in the evening as possible, Roma Norte is a better choice. Getting in from the airport is the same as for Roma Norte: take an authorised taxi or a car booked through an app, and allow half an hour to an hour.

Places to Stay in Condesa

Andaz Condesa Mexico City - five-star hotel with a rooftop pool and bar

Andaz Condesa is in the south-eastern part of Condesa, just over 200 metres from Chilpancingo metro station and around 500 metres from Parque México. The rooms measure 34 m² and the suites 66 m². There’s a pool and a bar on the roof, and the hotel also has a spa, a gym and a restaurant.

I’d choose it if you want the facilities of a big hotel in a neighbourhood where most of the alternatives are small. Pets are welcome. The pool is small and can be full of children, according to one guest, and many rooms face Avenida Insurgentes, where you can hear the traffic at night. Ask for a room away from the avenue.

One guest points out on Booking.com: “Good location, very clean room, staff were very friendly and helpful.”

See photos and book Andaz Condesa Mexico City here.

Hotel Parque México Boutique - small adults-only hotel right by Parque México

Hotel Parque México Boutique is on Avenida México, right by the park and around 400 metres from the Sonora Metrobús station. The hotel is adults-only and has a restaurant, a bar and a terrace. The standard suites measure 25 m², and the largest is 60 m², with a seating area and a dining area.

It suits a couple who want to stay in the greenest part of Condesa and walk to everything in the neighbourhood. You should know that the hotel has floor fans and heaters rather than air conditioning. Guests also mention weak water pressure in the shower and a little noise at night.

Here’s what one guest says on Booking.com: “Amazing location and staff were extremely helpful.”

See photos and book Hotel Parque México Boutique here.

Condesa Suites - lofts with a kitchen and free parking

Condesa Suites is an apartment hotel in the north-western part of Condesa, just over 400 metres from Parque España and around 500 metres from Chapultepec metro station. You stay in a loft of 35 to 50 m² with its own kitchen, and the largest sleeps four. There’s a lift, a 24-hour reception and free parking.

It’s the cheapest of my three suggestions in Condesa and a good option for a family or for a longer trip where you want to make your own breakfast. There’s no restaurant and no breakfast. Several guests think the building needs renovating, and they mention creaking beds and noise at weekends.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “Spacious room with great facilities and the option to cook.”

See photos and book Condesa Suites here.

3. Centro Histórico - best area for sightseeing and low prices

• Distance from the centre: You’ll be staying in the centre, around the Zócalo square.
• Transport: Metro Line 2, with stations at Zócalo and Bellas Artes, plus Metrobús Line 4.
• Time from the airport: An estimated 20 to 45 minutes by taxi from AICM. Metrobús Line 4 runs direct from both terminals.
• Price range: € to €€€. Usually the lowest hotel prices of the six areas.
• Safety: Big crowds during the day, so watch out for pickpockets. In the evening, many side streets go quiet, so stick to the well-lit main streets and take a car home.

Centro Histórico is the city’s historic centre and the place where you have the most sights within walking distance. UNESCO added the area to the World Heritage List in 1987 and describes how the Spanish built the city in the 16th century on the ruins of the Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan. By the Zócalo, you’ll find the cathedral and the excavations of the Templo Mayor.

That makes the area an obvious choice for a short trip focused on history and museums. From the Zócalo to the Palacio de Bellas Artes at the western end, it’s less than a kilometre, and much of the route is along Madero, a pedestrian street.

See hotels in Centro Histórico here.

It’s also the easiest area to reach by public transport from the airport. Metrobús Line 4 runs from Terminals 1 and 2 through Centro Histórico, and the ride costs 30 pesos compared with the normal 6. Metro Line 2 stops at both Zócalo and Bellas Artes, and according to the tourism office’s guide to the metro, a ride costs 5 pesos. The easiest way to pay is with the Movilidad Integrada transport card, which costs 15 pesos from the machines at the stations. Avoid the metro with a suitcase in rush hour, which the guide puts at roughly 7 to 10 am and 5 to 9 pm. The front carriages are reserved for women and children.

The prices are another good reason. You usually get more hotel for your money here than in Roma Norte, Condesa and Polanco, and that’s true in all three price ranges.

The downside comes in the evening. When the shops close, many streets go quiet, and the choice of restaurants is smaller than in Roma Norte and Condesa. The hotels closest to the Zócalo, on the other hand, are anything but quiet, and guests mention street musicians and concerts. I’d stay here for two or three nights and spend the rest of the trip in one of the greener neighbourhoods.

Places to Stay in Centro Histórico

Gran Hotel Ciudad de México - classic luxury hotel with a rooftop restaurant by the Zócalo

Gran Hotel Ciudad de México is by the Zócalo, around 250 metres from Zócalo/Tenochtitlan metro station. From the rooftop restaurant, you look out over the square and the cathedral. The rooms measure 24 to 28 m² and the suites up to 38 m², and if you want to see the square from your room, you need to choose one of the Zócalo View categories.

It’s the hotel for a special occasion, or if you want to stay as centrally as possible. One guest writes that your jaw drops when you walk in. There’s also a bar and a gym, and parking costs extra. You’ll be right in the middle of the noise: guests mention both street musicians and concerts in the square, and one found the bed a little uncomfortable.

One guest describes their stay on Booking.com: “The staff were welcoming and attentive, the hotel’s décor and history were truly impressive, and the view and location were absolutely perfect.”

See photos and book Gran Hotel Ciudad de México here.

Hotel Catedral - popular mid-range hotel close to the Templo Mayor

Hotel Catedral is on Calle República de Guatemala, around 200 metres north of the Zócalo and 150 metres from the Templo Mayor. The standard rooms measure 22 to 26 m², and there’s a family room for six as well as suites with a terrace. The hotel has a restaurant, a bar and a roof terrace.

With several thousand reviews and a very high score on Booking.com, it’s a safe mid-range choice. It suits both couples and families who want to walk to the sights. The walls are thin, and several guests could hear their neighbours. The hotel doesn’t have a pool or a gym.

One guest praises the place on Booking.com: “Great location, friendly staff, nice hotel, good restaurant, phenomenal pastries.”

See photos and book Hotel Catedral here.

Hotel El Salvador - affordable hotel with a restaurant close to Bellas Artes

Hotel El Salvador is on Calle República del Salvador in the western part of Centro Histórico, just over 150 metres from San Juan de Letrán metro station and around 550 metres from the Palacio de Bellas Artes. It’s just over 800 metres to the Zócalo. The rooms measure 22 to 25 m², and the hotel has a restaurant serving traditional Mexican food, a bar, a terrace, a lift and free parking.

In the centre, Hotel El Salvador is my pick for a tight budget, and it’s rare for a hotel in this price range to get such good reviews. There’s no air conditioning, but you can borrow a fan from reception. Several guests mention low water pressure in the shower, and there can be noise from the corridor.

One guest mentions the location on Booking.com: “Fantastic location close to many attractions and also the Metro.”

See photos and book Hotel El Salvador here.

4. Reforma & Juárez - best area for large hotels and being close to most things

• Distance from the centre: Just over 3.5 km west of the Zócalo, by the Ángel de la Independencia monument.
• Transport: Metrobús Line 7 along Paseo de la Reforma, Metrobús Line 1 on Avenida Insurgentes and the Insurgentes and Sevilla metro stations.
• Time from the airport: An estimated 30 to 60 minutes by taxi from AICM, depending on the traffic.
• Price range: €€ to €€€€. The international chains’ big hotels on Reforma and cheaper hotels in the side streets of Juárez.
• Safety: Reforma is wide, well lit and busy. Zona Rosa has nightlife and big crowds at weekends, so look after your phone and wallet, and buy your own drinks.

Paseo de la Reforma is the city’s grand boulevard. It was laid out in the 1860s to connect the castle in Chapultepec with the historic centre, and today office towers and big hotels stand side by side along it. Halfway along stands the Ángel de la Independencia, one of the city’s best-known monuments.

South of the boulevard is the Juárez neighbourhood with Zona Rosa, where the streets are named after European cities such as Hamburgo, Londres and Liverpool. This is where you’ll find restaurants, bars and a large share of the area’s cheaper hotels.

It’s the most practical place to stay if you want to see a lot in a few days. You’re halfway between Centro Histórico and Polanco, Roma Norte begins just under a kilometre to the south, and Chapultepec Park, with its museums, is further out along the boulevard to the west. Metrobús Line 7 runs along Reforma with double-decker buses.

See hotels on Reforma and in Juárez here.

On Sunday mornings, the boulevard is usually closed to cars and full of cyclists, runners and families. It’s a good time to see it, and I’d fit in a walk from the Ángel de la Independencia to Chapultepec. From the airport, take an authorised taxi or a car booked through an app. I’d set aside half an hour to an hour for the journey.

On the other hand, the area feels more like a business district than a neighbourhood. The traffic on Reforma is heavy on weekdays, and the big hotels look like the ones you know from other big cities. In Zona Rosa, you can hear the music from the bars until late at weekends. If you want cafés and small streets right outside the door, Roma Norte and Condesa are better choices.

Places to Stay on Reforma and in Juárez

Sofitel Mexico City Reforma - luxury hotel with an indoor pool and a rooftop bar

The Sofitel stands on the north side of Paseo de la Reforma, around 250 metres from the Ángel de la Independencia. The rooms measure 34 to 42 m² and have views over the city. The hotel has a heated indoor pool, a spa, a gym, a restaurant and a rooftop bar.

If you have the budget for it, you get views, a pool and easy access to both Zona Rosa and Chapultepec here. The price is among the highest in this guide, and one guest feels you get too little for it when breakfast isn’t included. Access to the spa may require you to book a treatment.

One guest keeps it brief on Booking.com: “Amazing views. Great clean and smart rooms. Very helpful staff.”

See photos and book Sofitel Mexico City Reforma here.

Galeria Plaza Reforma - four-star hotel with a rooftop pool in Zona Rosa

Galeria Plaza Reforma is on Calle Hamburgo in Zona Rosa, around 250 metres from the Ángel de la Independencia and 500 metres from the Sevilla and Insurgentes metro stations. There’s a pool on the roof, and the hotel has a gym, restaurants and a bar.

It’s the hotel in the area where I think you get the most for your money. Check the room size before you book: the smallest rooms measure 18 to 23 m², while the Privilege categories are 30 to 37 m². The soundproofing between the rooms is poor, according to several guests, and one thinks breakfast is too expensive. Parking costs extra.

One guest on Booking.com puts it like this: “A modern hotel in a fantastic location.”

See photos and book Galeria Plaza Reforma here.

Suites Londres 212 - suites with a kitchenette and free parking in Juárez

Suites Londres 212 is an all-suite hotel on Calle Londres in Juárez, around 350 metres from Sevilla metro station and 400 metres from the Ángel de la Independencia. Every suite has a kitchenette and measures 27 to 45 m², and the family suite is the largest. There’s a lift, a 24-hour reception and free parking.

You get a lot of space for your money here, and you can make your own breakfast. You’ll need to, because there’s no restaurant and no breakfast. One guest was kept awake until midnight by music from a nearby nightclub, so bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “Great location, spacious, clean, everything we needed.”

See photos and book Suites Londres 212 here.

5. Polanco - best area for luxury, shopping and museums

• Distance from the centre: Around 6.5 km west of the Zócalo, just north of Chapultepec Park.
• Transport: Metro Line 7, with the Polanco and Auditorio stations.
• Time from the airport: An estimated 40 to 75 minutes by taxi from AICM, depending on the traffic. Polanco is further from the airport than the centre, Roma Norte and Reforma.
• Price range: €€€ to €€€€. The most expensive area in the city, with few real budget hotels.
• Safety: Quiet and well kept, with lots of people around the restaurants in the evening. The usual precautions apply here too.

Polanco is the city’s most expensive neighbourhood and sits just north of Chapultepec Park. The main street is Avenida Presidente Masaryk, with designer shops and galleries, and there’s a dense cluster of restaurants around Parque Lincoln. The city’s tourism office writes that several of the country’s most award-winning restaurants are in the neighbourhood.

The other reason to stay here is the museums. The tourism office calls Chapultepec the largest urban forest in the Americas, and both the castle and the Museo Nacional de Antropología are in the park’s first section. From the southern part of Polanco, you can walk there. In Nuevo Polanco to the north, you’ll find Museo Soumaya and Museo Jumex.

See hotels in Polanco here.

The hotels are big and expensive, and several of the international chains sit side by side on Campos Elíseos, facing the park. Many of the cheaper alternatives are apartment hotels with a kitchen, which is practical for a family or on a longer trip.

The price you pay for the peace and quiet is the distance. Polanco is around 6.5 km from the Zócalo and about 3 km from the Ángel de la Independencia, and in rush hour, the drive can drag on. Metro Line 7 stops at Polanco and Auditorio, but you have to change along the way to get to Centro Histórico. Allow extra time on your departure day too, because the journey to the airport is longer from here than from the centre.

The neighbourhood also feels more like an affluent district in any big city than the Mexico you find in Centro Histórico and Coyoacán. I’d choose Polanco if comfort, restaurants and museums are at the top of your list and you don’t mind taking a car to everything else.

Places to Stay in Polanco

Presidente InterContinental Mexico City - large luxury hotel with six restaurants by Chapultepec

The Presidente InterContinental is on Campos Elíseos in the southern part of Polanco, just over 300 metres from Auditorio metro station and around 800 metres from the Museo Nacional de Antropología. The rooms measure 32 m² and come with a view of the park or the city, and the suites start at 67 m². The hotel has six restaurants, a lobby bar, a spa and a gym that’s open around the clock.

It’s the obvious choice if you want to be able to walk to the museums in Chapultepec and have everything in one place at the hotel. It doesn’t have a pool, and several guests call the rooms a little dated. Parking costs extra.

One guest describes the hotel on Booking.com: “The hotel is beautiful in every way, the staff are very friendly and professional, great location, nice view and breakfast was fantastic.”

See photos and book Presidente InterContinental Mexico City here.

Suites Obelisk - four-star hotel with a restaurant and garden by Parque Lincoln

From Suites Obelisk on Calle Julio Verne, it’s around 150 metres to Parque Lincoln and 650 metres to Auditorio metro station. The standard room measures 24 m² and the junior suite 31 m², and the largest suite, at 66 m², has a kitchen and a dining area. The hotel has a restaurant, a garden, a small gym and free parking.

I’d choose it for a family or a couple who want to stay in the middle of Polanco’s restaurants without paying for one of the big chain hotels. The walls are thin, and guests with a room facing the street mention traffic noise, so ask for a room away from the street.

One guest recommends the place on Booking.com: “The property is very nicely managed, quiet and clean, and I strongly recommend it, especially for families.”

See photos and book Suites Obelisk here.

Eugenio SUEtes - simple rooms and suites in the northern part of Polanco

Eugenio SUEtes is on Calle Eugenio Sue in the northern part of Polanco, just under 500 metres from Polanco metro station and around 900 metres from Parque Lincoln. The rooms and suites measure 20 to 30 m², and there’s a 24-hour reception and free parking.

Budget is a relative term in Polanco. This is the cheapest of my three suggestions, not a cheap hotel. You get a clean, simple room in a good neighbourhood and not much more: there’s no restaurant, and some rooms have a fan instead of air conditioning. A few rooms have no window, according to guests, so ask before you book. Several also mention a weak shower.

Here’s how one guest describes the place on Booking.com: “The place was very clean, nice furniture and in a good area.”

See photos and book Eugenio SUEtes here.

6. Coyoacán - best area for a village feel and Frida Kahlo

• Distance from the centre: Around 10 km south of the Zócalo.
• Transport: Metro Line 3, with the Viveros/Derechos Humanos and Coyoacán stations, which are both around a kilometre and a half from the squares. Otherwise, take a taxi.
• Time from the airport: An estimated 40 to 75 minutes by taxi from AICM, depending on the traffic.
• Price range: €€ to €€€. Small guesthouses and boutique hotels, and almost no large hotels.
• Safety: Peaceful and full of families at weekends. The streets are quiet in the evening, so take a car home if you’ve been out in the city.

Coyoacán was once a town in its own right, and it still feels that way. At its centre are the two adjoining squares, Jardín Centenario and Jardín Hidalgo, which have kept their 16th-century layout, according to the city’s tourism office. Around them, you’ll find the church, the market and streets of low houses in bold colours. At weekends, the squares are full of stalls, music and families, and for the rest of the week, it’s far quieter here.

Most people come for Frida Kahlo. Her blue house, Casa Azul, is just under 700 metres from the squares and is now a museum. Museo Frida Kahlo is closed on Mondays and sells tickets through its own ticket site, and I’d buy them well before you travel.

See hotels in Coyoacán here.

If you stay here, you get the mornings and the evenings, when the day visitors have gone home. You can go for a run in Viveros de Coyoacán, the big park just under a kilometre to the west, which the tourism office calls the area’s main green refuge. From there, you can walk back along Avenida Francisco Sosa, with its old mansions from the colonial era.

The downside is the distance, and you should take it seriously. It’s around 10 km to the Zócalo, and the nearest metro station is about a kilometre and a half from the squares. In practice, you’ll end up using taxis for most things, and in rush hour, the journey to Roma Norte or the centre can drag on.

I’d choose Coyoacán for the last nights of a longer trip or for your second visit to the city. If you only have three days and want to see the major sights, you’re better off staying in Roma Norte or Centro Histórico and coming out here for half a day.

Places to Stay in Coyoacán

Orchid House Coyoacán - adults-only boutique hotel with a spa and garden

Orchid House is on Avenida Francisco Sosa, around a kilometre west of Jardín Centenario and 500 metres from both Viveros park and Viveros/Derechos Humanos metro station. The hotel is adults-only and has a restaurant serving traditional Mexican food, a garden, a terrace and a spa with a hot tub.

It’s the most expensive of my three suggestions in Coyoacán and my pick for a couple who want a quiet stay and a walk along the beautiful street to the squares. Look at the room sizes before you choose: the smallest suites measure 13 to 16 m² and the largest 25 to 31 m². The hotel is small, so book well ahead.

One guest writes about the hotel on Booking.com: “Great location, thoroughly renovated older building, comfortable and central.”

See photos and book Orchid House Coyoacán here.

Maria Del Alma House - family-run guesthouse with a garden close to Casa Azul

Maria Del Alma House is a family-run guesthouse on Calle París, around 250 metres from Museo Frida Kahlo and just under 500 metres from Jardín Centenario. The rooms are large, at 35 to 50 m², and breakfast is included in the price and changes from day to day. The house has a garden, a terrace and a bar.

It’s one of the best-reviewed places in the whole guide, and it’s the hosts that guests write about. Choose it if you’d rather stay somewhere private and personal than in a hotel. There’s no air conditioning and no parking, and one guest mentions a small bed and a weak shower.

One guest says on Booking.com: “The owners are the most friendly and engaging people you can imagine.”

See photos and book Maria Del Alma House here.

Casa Real Coyoacán - guesthouse with free parking at a budget price

Casa Real Coyoacán is a guesthouse on Avenida Miguel Hidalgo, around a kilometre east of Jardín Centenario and 800 metres from the market. The standard rooms measure 17 m² and the suites 30 to 47 m², with space for four, and all have a private bathroom. There’s a 24-hour reception, a shared kitchen and free parking.

If you want a cheap stay in Coyoacán, this is my suggestion, and it’s also a place guests praise for its decor. Allow a 10 to 15-minute walk to the squares. The water pressure is low, the bed is too hard for some, and there’s a school opposite the house that makes a bit of noise in the middle of the afternoon.

One guest writes about the room on Booking.com: “The room was beautiful and unique, just like the community.”

See photos and book Casa Real Coyoacán here.

Where should you avoid staying in Mexico City?

I wouldn’t stay by the airport unless you have a very early flight. Check which airport you’re flying from too. The city’s second airport, Felipe Ángeles (AIFA), is in Zumpango in the State of Mexico, far north of the city, and the airport’s own train to Buenavista station takes around an hour. A hotel by one airport won’t help you if your flight leaves from the other.

I wouldn’t choose a hotel on price alone either. Mexico City is enormous, and a cheap room far from the six areas in this guide quickly costs you an hour or two in traffic every day. The city’s tourism office itself warns that traffic can significantly change your travel times, and it recommends public transport. Stick to neighbourhoods you’ve read about, and check the hotel’s address on the map before you book.

If I had to choose one area for a first trip, it’d be Roma Norte, for the food and the location in the middle of everything. Condesa is the choice if you want more peace and greenery, and Reforma and Juárez if you want a big hotel and short distances in every direction.

Centro Histórico gives you the most sights and the most for your money, but the fewest good evenings. Polanco is for you if you want an expensive, quiet stay close to the museums in Chapultepec, and Coyoacán is for a slower-paced stay. If you have five nights or more, I’d split them between Centro Histórico and one of the green neighbourhoods.

If you’re combining Mexico City with a city in the USA, I’ve written similar guides to where to stay in Los Angeles, the best areas in Miami and where to stay in New York, so you can choose the right neighbourhood there too.

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