Sri Lanka is an island south of India where, in just a couple of weeks, you can climb a 5th-century rock fortress, ride a train through tea plantations, spot leopards on safari and finish up on a palm-fringed beach. If you’re wondering where to stay in Sri Lanka, it helps to know the basics first: the currency is the Sri Lankan rupee (LKR), and 1,000 rupees is worth roughly £2.50.
So where should you stay in Sri Lanka? It depends on whether you’re touring the island or after a beach holiday, and on when you travel, because the monsoon hits the coasts at different times of year. Here are my nine picks, with three hotels in each area, from the most expensive to the cheapest.
Contents
Where to Stay in Sri Lanka: The Best Areas
- Colombo & Negombo - best base for arrival, city life and your last night
- Sigiriya & Dambulla - best area for the Cultural Triangle and Lion Rock
- Kandy - best town for the Temple of the Tooth and the start of the train journey
- Ella - best town for tea plantations, hiking and the train journey
- Tissamaharama & Yala - best area for safari and leopards
- Mirissa & Weligama - best area for beaches, surfing and whales
- Galle Fort - best town for colonial houses, cafés and sunsets on the ramparts
- Bentota - best area for resorts and a beach holiday close to the airport
- Trincomalee (Uppuveli) - best area for a summer beach holiday
I go through the areas in the order you’d usually visit them on a classic tour. You land near Colombo, drive up to the Cultural Triangle and Sigiriya, carry on to Kandy and take the train through the hill country to Ella. From there you head down to Yala for a safari and continue along the south and west coasts back towards the airport. Trincomalee on the east coast comes last, because it’s the beach for those travelling in summer. The hotel prices come from a search for a weekend in February for two people (for Trincomalee, a weekend in July), and they vary a lot with the season.
The weather is the most important thing to understand before you choose a beach. The southwest monsoon brings rain to the west and south coasts and the mountains from around May to September, while the northeast monsoon brings rain to the east coast and the north from around December to February. If you’re travelling in the winter months, the south and west coasts, the Cultural Triangle and the hill country are the right choice, and in summer the east coast around Trincomalee is best. In October and November, heavy showers can hit most of the island. The Danish Ministry of Foreign Affairs states in its travel advice for Sri Lanka that monsoon rains can cause flooding and landslides, and that buses and tuk-tuks are often involved in accidents.
Sri Lanka isn’t big, but the roads are narrow and winding, so journeys take longer than the map suggests. Most people touring the island hire a car with a driver for the whole trip, which is both the easiest and the safest option. The train journey between Kandy and Ella is an experience in itself, and I’ll tell you more about it in the Ella section. For short trips you take a tuk-tuk, and in the larger towns you can book one through apps such as PickMe and Uber, so you don’t have to haggle over the price. If you want to drive yourself, Sri Lanka requires a local driving permit in addition to your driving licence, and the traffic is chaotic. I only recommend it for experienced drivers, but you can check prices for car hire from Booking.com.
Two weeks is enough for a tour taking in Sigiriya, Kandy, Ella, Yala and a few nights by the beach, and with three weeks you can do it all at a more relaxed pace. If you only have a week, choose either the Cultural Triangle and Kandy or the south and west coasts. Many people also end their trip with a week in the Maldives, just a short flight from Colombo, and here you can read about where to stay in the Maldives.
Nuwara Eliya, Unawatuna, Hikkaduwa, Arugam Bay and Jaffna don’t have their own sections. I mention Nuwara Eliya under Ella, Unawatuna under Galle, Hikkaduwa under Bentota and Arugam Bay under Trincomalee. Jaffna in the Tamil north is far from the classic routes and suits you best if you have plenty of time and have already seen the rest of the island.
1. Colombo & Negombo - best base for arrival, city life and your last night ✈️
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Negombo is about 35 kilometres north of Colombo. The hotels in Negombo are on the beach north of the town centre, while the hotel in Colombo is on the Galle Face Green seafront promenade in the heart of the city.
- 🚕 Transport: In both cities you get around by tuk-tuk or book a car through an app. Between the airport, Negombo and Colombo you take a taxi or a car with a driver.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: The airport is at Katunayake. It’s about 20 to 30 minutes by car to Negombo and about an hour to Colombo via the motorway, depending on traffic.
- 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three hotels below cost around £11 to £160 a night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Generally safe, but the traffic is heavy. Take an official taxi or an app car from the airport, and keep an eye on your bag during rush hour in Colombo.
Negombo is a fishing town with a long beach, a large lagoon and an old canal dating from Dutch times. The town has lots of Catholic churches, and the large St. Mary’s Church in the centre is a good place to start a walk. In the morning the day’s catch is sold at the fish market by the lagoon, and most of the hotels, restaurants and bars line the beach north of the centre. It isn’t Sri Lanka’s most beautiful beach, but it’s fine for a stroll and a sunset after a long flight.
Colombo is the country’s largest city and commercial capital. Along the sea runs Galle Face Green, a long lawn and seafront promenade where families gather in the evening and buy street food from the stalls. In the city you can wander the old trading streets of Pettah, see Gangaramaya Temple by Beira Lake and eat well at the restaurants in the neighbourhoods south of the centre. One or two days is enough for most people, and the city works best as the start or end of your trip.
See hotels in Negombo here or see hotels in Colombo here.
I would stay in Negombo on the first and last night. Many flights to Sri Lanka land late in the evening or early in the morning, and from here you’re quickly away from the airport and can have a lie-in before your driver picks you up. It’s also the easiest place to stay before an early flight home. If you want to see the capital, spend one or two nights in Colombo instead, ideally at the southern end of Galle Face Green, where you can walk along the sea.
The downside is that neither city is the reason people travel to Sri Lanka. In Colombo the traffic is heavy for most of the day, so even short journeys take time, and the city can feel hot and noisy. The beach in Negombo is wide, but the sand is coarse and the sea is rougher than on the south coast, so don’t plan a beach holiday here.
Hotels in Colombo and Negombo
Galle Face Hotel - historic colonial hotel by the sea in Colombo
Galle Face Hotel is at the southern end of Galle Face Green in central Colombo and has a saltwater pool facing the Indian Ocean. It scores 8.7 from over 1,700 reviews, and the price was around £160 a night. The buildings are full of atmosphere, but some guests feel the hotel needs maintenance and could be run better.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Super lovely staff, great buffets for breakfast and dinner, the pool was lovely and the location was excellent.”
See photos and book Galle Face Hotel here.
Negombo Boutique Villa - small hotel with a pool near the beach in Negombo
Negombo Boutique Villa is in Palangathura in the northern part of Negombo, about a six-minute walk from the beach. There’s an outdoor pool, a restaurant and a bar, and the hotel can arrange airport transfers for a fee. It scores 8.6 from over 1,500 reviews, and the price was around £30 a night, but some guests find the rooms a little dark.
From one review: “Beautiful villa, spotlessly clean and a really lovely pool.”
See photos and book Negombo Boutique Villa here.
Sun Shine Guest House - budget guesthouse right on the beach
Sun Shine Guest House is on Lewis Place in Negombo with direct access to the beach. It’s a simple, owner-run guesthouse, it scores 8.9 from just under 300 reviews, and the price was only around £11 a night. There’s no pool, and you don’t get the same facilities as at a larger hotel.
One guest highlights: “A lovely local guesthouse. The owners are warm and welcoming to all their guests.”
See photos and book Sun Shine Guest House here.
2. Sigiriya & Dambulla - best area for the Cultural Triangle and Lion Rock 🦁
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Sigiriya is a village at the foot of the rock. The hotels are scattered across the countryside, roughly one to five kilometres from the rock, and the town of Dambulla is about 20 kilometres away.
- 🛺 Transport: You get around by tuk-tuk or with your driver. There are no trains to Sigiriya.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: Allow around four hours by car.
- 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three hotels below cost from around £45 to £330 per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Quiet. Wild elephants cross some of the roads in the area, so don’t drive yourself after dark, and listen to your hotel’s advice.
Sigiriya sits in the middle of what’s known as the Cultural Triangle, the area between the ancient royal cities of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy. Here, Lion Rock rises almost 200 metres above the jungle, and according to UNESCO, King Kassapa I made the rock his capital in the 5th century. You climb up past the water gardens, the frescoes and the two giant lion paws, and from the top you can see across the whole plain. A ticket costs about 35 dollars (around £25) for foreign tourists, and I’d go up early in the morning, before the heat and the tour groups arrive.
Just north of Sigiriya is Pidurangala, a lower rock with a cheaper ticket and the best view of Lion Rock itself. In Dambulla you can visit the cave temple with its ancient Buddha statues and frescoes, and you can easily spend a day on the ruins of Polonnaruwa and the elephants in Minneriya National Park. You can combine the two on a day trip to Polonnaruwa with an elephant safari in Minneriya with hotel pick-up. If you have more time, the sacred city of Anuradhapura is a couple of hours to the north-west.
I’d stay here for two or three nights and use Sigiriya as a base for the whole Cultural Triangle. From here you can reach Sigiriya, Pidurangala, Dambulla, Polonnaruwa and a safari in no time, and the landscape of paddy fields, lakes and jungle makes a nice contrast to the cities. Choose a hotel with a pool, as it gets hot here in the middle of the day, and most people want to relax after a morning on the rock.
The downside is that Sigiriya isn’t a proper town. The hotels are spread out, restaurants are few and far between, and you rely on tuk-tuks or your driver to get around. Dambulla has more shops and restaurants, but it’s a busy junction town without much charm, so I’d only choose it if Sigiriya is fully booked.
Hotels in Sigiriya
Aliya Resort and Spa - five-star resort with views of Lion Rock
Aliya sits in the countryside about five kilometres north-west of Sigiriya and has a large pool looking straight out at Lion Rock. It’s a five-star hotel with a spa, gym and kids’ club, it scores 9.0 from over 800 reviews, and the price was around £330 per night. A few guests do feel the pool could have done with a clean, though.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Beautiful hotel, amazing view, the rooms were spacious and it oozed quality.”
See photos and book Aliya Resort and Spa here.
Sigiriya Village - large hotel with gardens and a pool close to the rock
Sigiriya Village is about one kilometre south of the rock and has large gardens, an outdoor pool with views of Lion Rock, a spa and a restaurant. It scores 8.5 from over 750 reviews, and the price was around £140 per night. Several guests mention, however, that the property feels worn and needs some maintenance.
From one review: “The view from the pool area was spectacular.”
See photos and book Sigiriya Village here.
Hotel Samanala Sigiriya - small guesthouse with a pool and good local food
Samanala is on the road into Sigiriya, about ten minutes by car from the rock. It’s a small guesthouse with a garden and pool, it scores 8.3 from over 450 reviews, and the price was around £45 per night. Guests praise the food and the peace and quiet, but some complain about patchy wifi.
One guest highlights: “A lovely little guesthouse. It’s very quiet here, and there’s a lovely pool.”
See photos and book Hotel Samanala Sigiriya here.
3. Kandy - best for the Temple of the Tooth and the start of the train journey 🛕
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Kandy Lake and the Temple of the Tooth are the heart of the city. The hotels below are between about 500 metres and one and a half kilometres from the temple.
- 🚂 Transport: You can get around the centre on foot, and you take a tuk-tuk up the hills. Trains run from Kandy station to both Colombo and Ella.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: Allow about three hours by car, depending on traffic. From Sigiriya it takes about two and a half hours.
- 💰 Price level: Low to mid-range. The three hotels below cost from around £17 to £120 per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe, but traffic in the centre is heavy and the pavements are narrow. Keep a firm hold of your belongings when it’s crowded at the temple.
Kandy was the capital of the last Sinhalese kings, and the city sits beautifully in a valley around a man-made lake, with green hills on every side. By the lake stands the Temple of the Tooth, Sri Dalada Maligawa, where one of the Buddha’s teeth is kept, and it’s one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world. According to the temple’s own website, a ticket costs 3,000 rupees (around £7) for foreign visitors. You won’t be let in wearing shorts or sleeveless clothing, and you leave your shoes at the entrance. Try to come for one of the morning or evening ceremonies, when the drums play and pilgrims offer flowers.
Take a walk around the lake, and hop in a tuk-tuk out to the botanical gardens in Peradeniya, west of the city, with their palm avenues, orchids and enormous trees. In the evening you can watch traditional Kandyan dancing in several of the city’s cultural halls. In summer Kandy hosts the great Esala Perahera procession with decorated elephants, dancers and drummers, and hotels fill up quickly during that period, so book early if you’re travelling then.
I’d stay here for two nights, especially if you’re continuing by train to Ella. That gives you a full day for the temple, the lake and the botanical gardens, and you can catch the morning train well rested. If you stay centrally near the lake, you can walk to most things, while the hotels up in the hills have the best views and more peace in the evening.
The downside is the traffic. The streets around the lake are often jammed with cars and buses, and the air can feel heavy in the middle of the day. The city is built on hills, so even short distances can be hard going on foot in the heat. Kandy is also a little more expensive than the rest of the hill country, and prices rise sharply around Esala Perahera.
Hotels in Kandy
The Radh Hotel - five-star boutique hotel in the city centre
The Radh is on Colombo Street in the middle of Kandy, about 500 metres from the Temple of the Tooth and the lake. It’s a five-star hotel with a spa, sauna and a small pool, it scores 8.8 from more than 1,300 reviews, and the price was around £120 per night. On the other hand, you can hear the traffic from some of the rooms, and one guest didn’t think much of the breakfast.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Great location with friendly and attentive staff.”
See photos and book The Radh Hotel here.
Kandy Hills - four-star hotel with mountain views
Kandy Hills is on Rajapihilla Mawatha, up on the hill above the city, about one and a half kilometres from the Temple of the Tooth. The rooms are spacious with views over the garden and the mountains, it scores 8.9 from more than 1,600 reviews, and the price was around £60 per night. There’s no pool, and some guests feel the restaurant has a limited menu.
From a review: “The view from our room was amazing, and the room was absolutely top-notch.”
See photos and book Kandy Hills here.
Shani Residence Kandy - budget guesthouse with a balcony and views
Shani Residence is on Reservoir Road, on the hill just above the centre, less than a kilometre from the lake and the temple. It’s a simple guesthouse with no pool, it scores 8.9 from more than 400 reviews, and the price was only around £17 per night. One guest does mention that you can hear the city at night, though.
One guest highlights: “The view from the balcony was excellent, and the host was fantastic.”
See photos and book Shani Residence Kandy here.
4. Ella - best town for tea plantations, hiking and the train journey 🚂
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Ella is a small town with one main street. The hotels below are no more than about five minutes’ walk from the centre and the station.
- 🚂 Transport: You walk around town, and for Nine Arches Bridge, Ravana Falls and the hiking trails you either take a tuk-tuk or walk. The train runs towards Kandy and Badulla.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: Allow six to seven hours by car. Most people arrive by train from Kandy or by car from the south coast.
- 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three hotels below cost from around £27 to £230 per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe. Don’t step onto the track at Nine Arches Bridge when the train is coming, and stick to the paths when you hike in fog or rain.
Ella sits in the highlands surrounded by tea plantations, mountains and waterfalls, and the evenings here are pleasantly cool after the heat down on the plains. The easiest hike goes up Little Adam’s Peak with views across the valley, while the climb up Ella Rock is longer and steeper. At Nine Arches Bridge the train crosses an old stone bridge with nine arches in the middle of the jungle, and most people stop at Ravana Falls, south of town, on the way down to the coast.
The train journey from Kandy to Ella is one of the most beautiful in Asia and usually takes six to seven hours through tea plantations and misty mountains. Seats in the reserved classes sell out quickly, and you can book from 30 days before departure through Sri Lanka Railways’ official seat reservation. You receive the ticket by email and need to give the passport number of every traveller. Many people break the journey with a night in Nuwara Eliya, a cool town with colonial houses and tea factories, known as Little England. If you’re heading on to the south coast, you can combine the trip with a safari on a transfer from Ella to the coast with a stop in Yala.
I’d stay here for two or three nights, so you have time for Little Adam’s Peak, Nine Arches Bridge and a day when it rains. Choose a hotel with a view over Ella Gap or the tea plantations, because the view is what makes the stay. Most guesthouses serve a big Sri Lankan breakfast, and in the evening there are good cafés and restaurants on the main street.
The downside is that Ella has become very popular. The main street is full of cafés and bars, it can be noisy in the evening, and lots of people gather at Nine Arches Bridge when the train comes through. Many guesthouses are up steep steps, and the weather changes quickly, so pack waterproofs and a jumper.
Hotels in Ella
Zion View Ella Green Retreat - infinity pool with views of Ella Rock
Zion View is on Waterfall Road, a few minutes’ walk from the main street and the station. The hotel has an infinity pool overlooking the valley and Ella Rock, it scores 9.1 from over 1,000 reviews, and the price was around £230 per night. That’s expensive for Ella, and some guests find the pool cold.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The view is amazing. The hotel sits at treetop level and looks out over Ella Rock.”
See photos and book Zion View here.
Ravana Heights - small hotel with panoramic views over Ella Gap
Ravana Heights is on the road towards Wellawaya just south of the centre, with views over the Ella Gap valley and Ella Rock. It’s a small hotel with a restaurant and terrace, it scores 8.6 from over 250 reviews, and the price was around £165 per night. There’s no pool, and the price is high for a three-star hotel.
From one review: “The staff and the owner were absolutely lovely and took really good care of us during our stay.”
See photos and book Ravana Heights here.
Ella Green Stay - friendly guesthouse with mountain views
Ella Green Stay is in Ambagolla, about five minutes’ walk from the centre and the station. It’s a small guesthouse with a garden and views towards the mountains, it scores 9.1 from over 400 reviews, and the price was around £27 per night. There are a lot of steps up to the guesthouse, though, so pack light.
One guest highlights: “Breakfast was filling and delicious, and our hosts couldn’t have been sweeter or friendlier.”
See photos and book Ella Green Stay here.
5. Tissamaharama & Yala - best area for safaris and leopards 🐆
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Tissamaharama is the nearest town to Yala National Park, and the safari jeeps take around half an hour to three quarters of an hour to reach the park entrance. Jetwing Yala is on the coast close to the park.
- 🚙 Transport: Safaris are done by jeep, arranged by the hotels and guesthouses. In town, you get around by tuk-tuk.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: Allow five to six hours by car. From Ella it’s around two and a half hours, and from Mirissa slightly less.
- 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three hotels below cost from around £10 to £315 per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe. Always stay inside the jeep in the park, and don’t drive yourself after dark, when elephants may cross the road.
Yala is Sri Lanka’s best-known national park and one of the best places in the world to see leopards in the wild. The park is made up of dry forest, rocks, lagoons and beach, and it’s also home to elephants, sloth bears, crocodiles, water buffalo and hundreds of bird species. Safaris run early in the morning and late in the afternoon, when the animals are most active, and you can book a half-day or full-day safari in Yala with pick-up. Check what’s included in the price, as the park entrance fee may come on top.
Tissamaharama is a quiet rural town set around Tissa Wewa, an ancient reservoir where you can spot birds and crocodiles from a boat at sunset. By the town stands the large white stupa Tissamaharama Dagoba, and around 20 kilometres to the north lies the pilgrimage town of Kataragama. If you want to see flamingos and wading birds, Bundala National Park to the west is a quieter alternative to Yala. Parts of Yala usually close for a period during the driest season in late summer and early autumn, so if you’re travelling in September or October, ask your hotel whether safaris are running.
See hotels in Tissamaharama and near Yala here.
I’d stay here for one or two nights so you can go on an early-morning safari without a long drive first. The cheap guesthouses in Tissamaharama arrange jeeps and often have the best drivers, while the lodges on the coast near the park suit you if you want a pool, good food and the shortest possible trip to the entrance. A couple of nights here fit nicely between Ella and the south coast.
The downside is that there isn’t much to do in Tissamaharama apart from safaris. The busiest part of the park can be packed with jeeps when someone has spotted a leopard, and you’re never guaranteed to see one. It’s hot and humid, and there are lots of mosquitoes in the evening, so bring insect repellent.
Hotels in Tissamaharama and near Yala
Jetwing Yala - luxury beachfront hotel close to the national park
Jetwing Yala sits right on the coast at Kirinda close to Yala National Park, so you’re at the park quickly in the morning. There’s an outdoor pool, spa and gym, it scores 8.8 from over 450 reviews, and the price was around £315 per night. It’s by far the most expensive option in the area, and it’s some distance from Tissamaharama.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The buffet for dinner and breakfast was incredible, with so much to choose from.”
See photos and book Jetwing Yala here.
Hotel River Front - four-star hotel with a pool in Tissamaharama
Hotel River Front is in Debarawewa, south-west of the lake in Tissamaharama. It’s a four-star hotel with an outdoor pool, gym and restaurant, it scores an impressive 9.4 from over 1,500 reviews, and the price was around £55 per night. The hotel also arranges safaris, but some guests feel the owner repeatedly asks for good reviews.
From a review: “The staff were so lovely, from the moment we arrived until we left.”
See photos and book Hotel River Front here.
Blue Birds Tissa & Yala Safari - budget guesthouse that arranges safaris
Blue Birds is also in Debarawewa and is a small guesthouse with a restaurant and garden that arranges jeeps to Yala. It scores an excellent 9.6 from over 400 reviews, and the price was only around £10 per night. There’s no pool, and it’s a fair drive from the guesthouse to the park entrance.
One guest highlights: “The service at this place is exceptional.”
See photos and book Blue Birds Tissa & Yala Safari here.
6. Mirissa & Weligama - best area for beaches, surfing and whales 🐋
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Mirissa is a small beach town, and Weligama lies about five kilometres to the west. The hotels below range from right on the beach to about a five-minute walk from it.
- 🛺 Transport: Tuk-tuks between the beaches and buses along the coast road. Galle is about an hour away by car.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: Allow about three hours by car via the motorway.
- 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three hotels below cost from around £45 to £380 per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe, but the waves and currents can be strong. Swim where the locals swim and keep an eye out for red flags.
Mirissa is the south coast’s most popular beach town, with a curved sandy beach, palm trees, beach bars and seafood restaurants where the catch of the day is laid out on ice by the entrance. At the eastern end of the beach is the small rocky islet of Parrot Rock, and on the headland a little further east is Coconut Tree Hill, a palm-covered hill overlooking the sea that is one of the most photographed spots in the country. Boats head out on whale-watching trips from the harbour, and Sri Lanka’s tourist board singles out Mirissa as one of the best places to see blue whales. You can go on a whale-watching trip with snorkelling among sea turtles on the same day.
Weligama sits on a wide bay where the waves are perfect for beginners, and the beach is lined with surf schools and board rental shops. The town feels more local than Mirissa, but it is also home to some of the south coast’s biggest resorts. Between Weligama and Galle are the surf towns of Midigama and Ahangama, with small boutique hotels and cafés, and to the east are Tangalle and Hiriketiya Bay if you want somewhere even quieter.
See hotels in Mirissa and Weligama here.
I would stay here if you want beach life with restaurants and bars within walking distance, plus the chance to surf, snorkel and go whale watching. Mirissa is best for couples and friends who want a bit of nightlife, while Weligama suits surfers and families who want to stay at a larger resort. The south coast is also a great place to end your tour with four or five nights.
The downside is that Mirissa has become heavily built up, and the beach can be crowded in high season. The coast road between Galle and Matara runs right behind the town, so hotels by the road can be noisy. In summer the sea on the south coast is rough, and many restaurants close. The whale-watching trips can also be overcrowded, so choose a boat with plenty of space and respect for the animals.
Hotels in Mirissa and Weligama
Weligama Bay Marriott Resort & Spa - five-star resort right on the beach in Weligama
The Marriott sits right on the beach on Weligama Bay. There are several pools, a children’s pool, a spa and a gym, it scores 9.0 from over 1,100 reviews, and the price was around £380 per night. Some guests feel the buffet could be better for the price, though.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The hotel is beautiful, well maintained and has a fantastic location right on the beach.”
See photos and book Weligama Bay Marriott here.
Oltremare Mirissa - popular hotel a few minutes’ walk from the beach
Oltremare is on Sunanda Road in Mirissa, about a four-minute walk from the beach. It is a small three-star hotel without a pool, it scores 9.3 from over 600 reviews, and the price was around £75 per night. A few guests complain about weak shower pressure.
From one review: “The location is excellent, a four-minute walk from Mirissa beach.”
See photos and book Oltremare Mirissa here.
Resort Deepika Mirissa - budget hotel with a pool close to the beach
Resort Deepika is in Bandaramulla at the eastern end of Mirissa, close to the beach. There is a pool and a gym, and the rooms have air conditioning and a fridge. It scores 8.9 from over 750 reviews, and the price was around £45 per night, but some guests mention problems with the water pressure in the shower.
One guest highlights: “The room was comfortable. Air conditioning and a fridge in the room.”
See photos and book Resort Deepika Mirissa here.
7. Galle Fort - best town for colonial houses, cafés and sunset on the ramparts 🏰
- 📍 Distance to the centre: You stay inside the fort itself, and all three hotels below are in the Old Town within the ramparts.
- 🚶 Getting around: Inside the fort you can walk everywhere. To reach the beaches at Unawatuna and Jungle Beach, take a tuk-tuk, and from Galle station the train runs along the coast towards Colombo.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: Allow around two and a half hours by car via the motorway.
- 💰 Price level: Mid-range to high. The three hotels below cost around £45 to £110 a night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Very safe. Watch out for the traffic outside the gates, and keep away from the edge of the ramparts after dark.
Galle Fort is a fortified town on a peninsula jutting out into the sea, founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century and expanded by the Dutch. According to UNESCO, the Old Town of Galle and its Fortifications is one of the best-preserved examples of a European fortified town in South Asia. Within the ramparts you’ll find narrow streets lined with colonial houses, churches, galleries, design shops and cafés, and the white lighthouse stands by the sea at the south-eastern end. Walk the ramparts in the late afternoon and watch the sunset from the bastions facing west.
The fort has no proper swimming beach, but a few kilometres east lies Unawatuna, with a bay of calm water, and right next to it is little Jungle Beach. Unawatuna is a good alternative if you’d rather stay by the beach and head into the fort in the evening. Further east is Koggala, where you can see the famous stilt fishermen, and to the north is Hikkaduwa, which I mention under Bentota.
See hotels in Galle Fort here.
I’d stay here for two nights if you’re into history, good food and atmospheric streets. In the evening, once the day-trippers have gone, the fort turns quiet, and that’s when you get the most out of staying within the ramparts. It’s also one of the most romantic places on the island, and many of the hotels are in beautifully restored houses with courtyard gardens.
The downside is that Galle Fort is expensive by Sri Lankan standards, and the rooms in the old houses are often small. In the middle of the day the streets are packed with groups on day trips from the coast, and few hotels have a proper pool. If you want the beach every day, you’re better off staying in Unawatuna or Mirissa and visiting Galle on a day trip.
Hotels in Galle Fort
Prince of Galle - five-star boutique hotel in a beautifully renovated house
Prince of Galle is on Sudharmalaya Road inside the fort, close to the Dutch church. It’s a five-star hotel with a spa, restaurant and terrace, it scores 9.4 from over 500 reviews, and the price was around £110 a night. The pool, however, is just a small plunge pool, which some guests hadn’t expected.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The place was full of charm, had a fantastic location and was beautifully renovated.”
See photos and book Prince of Galle here.
Orchard House Galle - guesthouse with a garden and pool on Lighthouse Street
Orchard House is on Lighthouse Street in the middle of the fort, a few minutes’ walk from the lighthouse and the ramparts. There’s a garden, an outdoor pool and a restaurant, it scores 9.2 from over 450 reviews, and the price was around £65 a night. Some guests do find the rooms a little small, though.
From one review: “The location, the staff, the garden, the breakfast and the pool were all fantastic!”
See photos and book Orchard House Galle here.
Seagreen Guesthouse - simple guesthouse by the ramparts on Rampart Street
Seagreen is on Rampart Street in the northern part of the fort, close to the ramparts. It’s a simple guesthouse with a terrace and restaurant, it scores 8.8 from over 500 reviews, and the price was around £45 a night. There’s no pool, and some guests mention noise from a nearby school.
One guest highlights: “Clean, modern room with a fantastic location. The photos don’t do the rooms justice.”
See photos and book Seagreen Guesthouse here.
8. Bentota - best area for resorts and a beach holiday close to the airport 🏖️
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Bentota is a long stretch of beach and hotels where the Bentota River meets the sea. The hotels below are on the beach or a few minutes’ walk from it.
- 🛺 Transport: Tuk-tuk along the coast. The train between Colombo and Galle stops in Bentota.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: Allow around two hours by car via the motorway.
- 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three hotels below cost from around £40 to £385 per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe, but the waves can be strong, especially as the monsoon approaches. Swim where your hotel recommends.
Bentota is the west coast’s classic beach resort, with a long, golden sandy beach where the Bentota Ganga river flows into the sea. Many of the resorts used by the package holiday companies are here, and the beach is wide enough for there to be room for everyone. On the river you can take a boat trip through the mangroves and spot monitor lizards, birds and small crocodiles, and on the lagoon behind the beach there are jet skis, waterskiing and other water sports.
Inland you’ll find the gardens of Lunuganga and Brief Garden, created by the brothers Geoffrey and Bevis Bawa, and along the coast south of the town there are several sea turtle hatcheries at Kosgoda. Further south lies Hikkaduwa, with coral reefs, turtles in the water and surfing, and the vibe there is more backpacker than in Bentota. To the north are the beach towns of Beruwala and Kalutara, with several large all-inclusive hotels.
I would stay here if you want a pure beach holiday with a pool, beach and good resorts, or if you want to end your tour with a few days by the sea close to the airport. Bentota is also a good choice for families with children, as it has the most large hotels with children’s pools and kids’ clubs, and the journey to the airport on the day you fly home is short.
The downside is that there isn’t much town life, and many guests stay at their resort all week. The coast road and the railway run right behind many of the hotels, so check the map if you’re a light sleeper. The waves are often big, and in summer the sea is so rough that it’s rarely good for swimming.
Hotels in Bentota
Cinnamon Bentota Beach - five-star resort at the river mouth
Cinnamon Bentota Beach sits right on the beach close to the river mouth. There’s a large pool, spa, kids’ club and water sports, it scores 9.2 from over 900 reviews, and the price was around £385 per night. A few guests do mention shortcomings in the cleaning and upkeep of the rooms.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Fantastic food, the best pool and amazing staff.”
See photos and book Cinnamon Bentota Beach here.
Club Villa - small villa hotel with a pool close to the beach
Club Villa is on Galle Road south of central Bentota, about a minute’s walk from the beach. It’s a small hotel in a large garden with a pool, it scores 9.2 from just over 150 reviews, and the price was around £210 per night. The garden does attract mosquitoes, though, so remember your insect repellent.
From one review: “It is perfection. Beautiful buildings with stylish and interesting interiors.”
See photos and book Club Villa here.
Sisi’s Place - small hotel with personal service a few minutes’ walk from the beach
Sisi’s Place is in Pitaramba near Cinnamon Bentota Beach, about three minutes’ walk from the beach. It’s a small hotel without a pool, it scores an impressive 9.6 from just under 200 reviews, and the price was around £40 per night. A few guests mention minor shortcomings in the cleaning.
One guest highlights: “The owner and his wife are very welcoming, helpful and friendly!”
See photos and book Sisi’s Place here.
9. Trincomalee (Uppuveli) - best area for a summer beach holiday 🐢
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Uppuveli is around five kilometres north of Trincomalee town, and Nilaveli beach is around ten kilometres further north.
- 🛺 Transport: Tuk-tuk between the beaches and the town. The boats to Pigeon Island leave from the beach at Nilaveli.
- ✈️ Time from Bandaranaike Airport: Allow five to six hours by car. From Sigiriya it’s around two and a half hours.
- 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three hotels below cost around £20 to £275 per night when I searched for a weekend in July.
- 👮 Safety: Quiet and safe. The sea is usually calm in summer, but don’t swim far out where there’s nobody else around.
When the southwest monsoon brings rain and big waves to the south and west coasts, it’s high season on the east coast. Uppuveli and Nilaveli, north of Trincomalee, have long, pale beaches with calm water, where the fishermen haul in their nets in the morning. Off Nilaveli lies Pigeon Island National Park, with coral reefs, reef sharks and sea turtles, and it’s one of the best places on the island for snorkelling. In Trincomalee itself, the Hindu Koneswaram Temple sits high on Swami Rock with views out over the sea, and the town has one of the world’s largest natural harbours.
The east coast has two other popular beach spots. Pasikudah, further south, has a long, shallow bay with several large resorts that suit families with children well. Arugam Bay in the southeast is a small surf town with beach bars, surf schools and good waves in summer, but it’s many hours’ drive from Trincomalee, so choose one or the other.
See hotels in Trincomalee and Uppuveli here.
I’d stay here if you’re travelling during the summer holidays and want beaches, snorkelling and calm water. Trincomalee combines well with the Cultural Triangle, as it’s a shorter journey here from Sigiriya than to the south coast. Uppuveli has the most restaurants and guesthouses, while Nilaveli is quieter, with the hotels more spread out.
The downside is that the east coast is a completely different destination in winter. During the winter months it rains a lot here, the sea is rough and many places close. The choice of restaurants is smaller than on the south coast, and the journey from the airport is long, so Trincomalee fits best into a tour of the island.
Hotels in Trincomalee and Uppuveli
Trinco Blu by Cinnamon - resort right on the beach in Uppuveli
Trinco Blu sits right on the beach in Uppuveli and has a pool, spa and playground. It scores 8.6 from over 900 reviews, and the price was around £275 per night. The hotel arranges snorkelling trips to Pigeon Island, but some guests complain about extra charges they hadn’t expected.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The beach and the view are excellent, the food is good, the room service is good and the staff are helpful.”
See photos and book Trinco Blu by Cinnamon here.
Capital Trincomalee - small hotel near the beach in Alles Garden
Capital Trincomalee is in the Alles Garden neighbourhood of Uppuveli, around a two-minute walk from the beach. It’s a small three-star hotel with a restaurant and bar, it scores 9.2 from 130 reviews, and the price was around £85 per night. There’s no pool, and several guests mention that there isn’t always hot water in the shower.
From one review: “The staff in particular were so pleasant, incredibly warm and welcoming.”
See photos and book Capital Trincomalee here.
Lobster Inn - budget guesthouse with a garden close to the beach
Lobster Inn is on Beach Road in Alles Garden, a few steps from the beach in Uppuveli. It’s a simple guesthouse with a lovely garden, it scores 8.9 from over 550 reviews, and the price was only around £20 per night. On the other hand, there’s no air conditioning in the rooms, and it can get very hot.
One guest highlights: “The host was a very friendly person. The location by the beach was good, and the hotel’s garden was beautiful.”
See photos and book Lobster Inn here.
Where not to stay in Sri Lanka?
Don’t book a beach hotel on the wrong coast. The south and west coasts are the right choice in the winter months, while Trincomalee and the rest of the east coast are best in summer, and a cheap out-of-season deal often ends up with rain and red flags. I also wouldn’t stay in Colombo on the first night if you land late, as Negombo is much closer to the airport.
Don’t stay in Kandy and do Sigiriya as a day trip, as the drive takes several hours each way and you’ll arrive in the middle of the day when it’s hottest. Also be careful with hotels right on the coast road between Colombo and Matara, where the traffic is noisy all day. And don’t expect beach weather in Nuwara Eliya, where the evenings can be cool most of the year.
Before you travel, you need to apply for a visa online on the official website eta.gov.lk. This is stated on the official government page on passports and visas for Sri Lanka, where you can also see that your passport must be valid for six months after your date of entry and have at least two blank pages. You may be asked to show a return ticket and enough money for your stay, and the rules can change at short notice, so check them before you book your flights. The forecast from Sri Lanka’s Department of Meteorology is worth keeping an eye on in the days before your beach nights.
If you’d prefer a pure beach holiday in Asia without the long drives, you can read about where to stay in Thailand, or see the guide to where to stay in Bali. If you want a tour with big cities, nature and beaches, also take a look at my guide to where to stay in Vietnam.
If it’s your first trip to Sri Lanka, do the classic tour with one night in Negombo, two in Sigiriya, two in Kandy, the train to Ella, one night near Yala, and finish with the beach in Mirissa, Galle Fort or Bentota. If you want culture and city life, prioritise Kandy and Galle Fort, and if you want a pure beach holiday, Bentota and Weligama are the easiest choices. If you’re travelling in summer, swap the south coast for Trincomalee.
Travel ressources & websites I use all the time 👇
• Booking.com has the best offers on hotels and unique places to stay
• GetYourGuide is the best place to book tours & activities with free cancellation
• Welcome Pickups is the best & safest place to pre-book airport transfers
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