Puerto Rico is more than a sunlounger in San Juan. On an island that’s only around 160 km from east to west, you’ll find a fortified colonial city, tropical rainforest, surf beaches facing the Atlantic and bays where the water glows in the dark. You pay in US dollars, because the island is a US territory.
That’s why it matters so much where you base yourself. In San Juan, you can manage without a car, but the rest of the island calls for a hire car, and the mountain roads are slower than the map suggests. Here are my recommendations for seven areas in Puerto Rico, with good hotels in three price ranges in each.
Contents
The Best Areas in Puerto Rico
- Old San Juan - best area for first-time visitors, history and evenings out
- Condado - best area for city and beach with restaurants within walking distance
- Isla Verde - best area for a beach holiday and families close to the airport
- Río Grande, Luquillo & Fajardo - best area for the El Yunque rainforest, beaches and a resort holiday
- Vieques - best island for the bioluminescent bay, quiet beaches and a slower pace
- Guánica & La Parguera - best area for calm water, small islands and dry forest on the south-west coast
- Isabela & Aguadilla - best area for surfing and beaches on the north-west coast
Below, I’ll take you through the seven places one by one, with a map, travel times and three hotels in each: a luxury hotel, a mid-range one and one for a smaller budget. The order follows a clockwise trip around the island from San Juan. The official tourist board, Discover Puerto Rico, itself recommends a hire car as soon as you’re heading outside the capital area, while in San Juan you can get by with taxis and Uber. The distances are measured in a straight line on the map, so expect the road to be longer.
1. Old San Juan - best area for first-time visitors, history and evenings out 🏰
- 📍 Distance from the centre: You’ll be staying in the middle of the historic district, where everything can be reached on foot. From Plaza de Armas, it’s just under a kilometre to the El Morro fortress.
- 🚶 Transport: On foot. Take an Uber or a taxi to the beaches in Condado and Isla Verde, and don’t pick up the hire car until you leave San Juan.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Around 20 minutes by taxi or Uber from Luis Muñoz Marín (SJU), longer in rush hour. That’s an estimate.
- 💰 Price range: €€ to €€€€. A few large hotels and many small ones in older townhouses.
- 👮 Safety: Busy and well visited both day and evening. Stick to the lit streets at night, and keep an eye on your bag in the crowds.
Old San Juan is my first choice for a first trip to Puerto Rico. The fortified district, called Viejo San Juan in Spanish, is all cobbled streets with colourful colonial houses, small squares and city walls facing the sea. You can walk to everything here, and it’s the part of San Juan with the most history per square metre.
The two big fortresses, El Morro and San Cristóbal, belong to San Juan National Historic Site, which is run by the US National Park Service. Together with La Fortaleza, they’ve been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1983. According to UNESCO, the fortifications were built between the 16th and 20th centuries to protect the city and the bay. Check opening hours and ticket prices with the National Park Service before you go.
See hotels in Old San Juan here.
In the evening, this is where San Juan is at its most atmospheric. According to the tourist board, streets such as Calle San Sebastián and the southern part of Calle Fortaleza are lit up by neon and string lights once darkness falls, and you’ll have restaurants and bars right on your doorstep. The downside is that it can be noisy until late at night, so choose a room away from the street if you’re a light sleeper.
Old San Juan has no swimming beach on its doorstep, and several of the hotels have no parking. That doesn’t matter on a stay of two to three nights, when you’ll be walking everywhere anyway. I’d stay here first, pick up the hire car afterwards and save the beaches for the rest of the trip. Be prepared, too, for the cruise ships that dock just below the district, because the streets can be packed in the middle of the day.
Places to Stay in Old San Juan
Hotel El Convento - classic luxury hotel with a rooftop pool in the middle of Old San Juan
Hotel El Convento is the classic luxury choice in Old San Juan, on Calle del Cristo about 150 metres from Plaza de Armas. It’s just over 800 metres to El Morro. The hotel has a rooftop pool, two restaurants, a bar and a gym, and the rooms range from a Queen Room with a view of the bay to a Junior Suite.
It’s the hotel for you if you want a beautiful, central place to stay and don’t mind paying for it. Breakfast isn’t included in the standard rate, and the hotel has no parking, so come without a car. One guest was surprised that coffee refills cost extra even though breakfast was included.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Beautiful hotel in a great, central location.”
See photos and book Hotel El Convento here.
Hotel Rumbao - modern hotel with a pool and a casino close to the cruise pier
Hotel Rumbao is on the south-eastern edge of Old San Juan, about 500 metres from Plaza de Armas and within walking distance of the cruise pier. You get an outdoor pool, a restaurant, a bar, a gym and a casino, and there are both rooms with a view of the bay and suites with a balcony.
Rumbao is a good fit if you want a modern hotel with facilities while still staying in the historic district, or if your trip begins or ends with a cruise. You can park for a fee, and the hotel adds a daily charge on top of the room rate. And one guest did think a single night was too expensive.
One guest highlights the location on Booking.com: “Loved the proximity of this hotel, close to restaurants, bars and shops.”
See photos and book Hotel Rumbao here.
Navona Studios - simple adults-only rooms in the middle of the historic district
Navona Studios is my budget pick, on Calle San Francisco about 200 metres from Plaza de Armas. The rooms have a private bathroom and air conditioning, and you can choose between a double room with a balcony, a deluxe room and a cheaper room without a window. The place is for adults only and has a shared terrace.
There’s no reception here. You check yourself in using a key box, and there’s no lift, breakfast or parking. That doesn’t matter if all you need is a clean bed in the middle of it all. One guest mentions loud noise at night, so bring earplugs.
One guest sums up their stay on Booking.com: “Location, cleanliness, staff, all great!”
See photos and book Navona Studios here.
2. Condado - best area for city and beach with restaurants within walking distance 🍹
- 📍 Distance from the centre: The hotels line Avenida Ashford between the Atlantic and the lagoon. It’s just under 5 km to Old San Juan.
- 🚕 Transport: On foot within the neighbourhood, and by Uber or taxi to the rest of the city. Bus D53 connects the airport with Avenida Ashford.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Around a quarter of an hour by taxi or Uber from SJU. That’s an estimate, and rush hour can make the journey longer.
- 💰 Price range: €€€ to €€€€. San Juan’s expensive beach neighbourhood, where well-reviewed budget hotels are in short supply.
- 👮 Safety: A safe and lively hotel neighbourhood. The Atlantic can have strong waves and currents, so take care when you swim.
Condado is where San Juan is a big city and a beach resort at the same time. Along Avenida Ashford, high-rise hotels, restaurants and shops stand side by side, and the beach is right behind them. This is also where you’ll find several of San Juan’s big luxury hotels. I’d choose Condado if you want pool and sand by day and a wide choice of places to eat within walking distance in the evening.
The neighbourhood sits on a narrow strip of land between the Atlantic and the lagoon. The hotels on the ocean side have the beach on their doorstep, while those on the lagoon side are usually cheaper and a few minutes’ walk from the sand. The tourist board describes the atmosphere on Condado Beach as relaxed, but it’s still the Atlantic, and the waves can be strong.
Old San Juan is just under 5 km to the west, so you can easily stay here and take an Uber in to the fortresses. To the east, the coast continues to Ocean Park, where the beach has the same relaxed atmosphere, according to the tourist board. A short taxi ride away is La Placita de Santurce, which the tourist board calls a market by day and San Juan’s hottest bar and restaurant area by night.
The downside is the price. Condado is usually among the most expensive places to stay in San Juan, and the hotels charge extra for parking. So come without a car, and don’t pick one up until you’re heading out into the rest of the island. Three nights is about right if you’re splitting your time between the beach and Old San Juan. It’s a good place to stay as a couple or on a long weekend, while families with children often get more beach and pool for their money in Isla Verde.
Places to Stay in Condado
Condado Vanderbilt Hotel - five-star beach hotel with a spa and two pools
Condado Vanderbilt Hotel is the neighbourhood’s grand luxury hotel, right on the oceanfront on Avenida Ashford. The hotel has five stars, two outdoor pools, a restaurant, a bar, a gym and a spa that, according to the tourist board, has Puerto Rico’s only hammam.
Choose it if you want classic luxury and service within walking distance of Condado’s restaurants. Breakfast costs extra, and parking is by valet for a fee. Take care over the room type. One guest describes a small, dark room overlooking a car park, so go for an ocean view if your budget stretches to it.
On the facilities, one guest writes on Booking.com: “Excellent facilities (two pools, big gym) and location (on the oceanfront, sunrise is stunning).”
See photos and book Condado Vanderbilt Hotel here.
Condado Ocean Club - adults-only hotel with an infinity pool right on the beach
Condado Ocean Club is for adults only and sits right on the beach, a few doors down from the Vanderbilt. There’s an infinity pool with a pool bar, a restaurant and a gym, and the rooms have a view of either the ocean or the lagoon.
It’s my suggestion for couples who want peace and quiet by the pool without paying five-star prices. The price is usually some way below its neighbour’s, but above the chain hotels on the lagoon side. Parking is by valet for a fee. One guest felt the staff at the pool bar weren’t attentive enough, and another thought the room needed freshening up.
On the pool, one guest writes on Booking.com: “Adults only, lovely pool overlooking a small beach.”
See photos and book Condado Ocean Club here.
Holiday Inn Express San Juan Condado - chain hotel with breakfast and a pool on the lagoon side
Holiday Inn Express San Juan Condado is on the lagoon side, about a five-minute walk from the beach. Breakfast is included in the price, and you get an outdoor pool, a hot tub and a gym. The rooms are standard rooms with a king-size bed, a queen-size bed or two queen-size beds.
Proper budget hotels with good reviews are hard to find in Condado, so the cheap choice here is an ordinary chain hotel. On the other hand, it’s a safe choice in a good location. Parking costs extra. One guest had to wait for the lift because one of them was out of order, and another calls the rooms dated.
One guest points out on Booking.com: “Wonderful location, and comfortable bedroom and bathroom, staff very helpful.”
See photos and book Holiday Inn Express San Juan Condado here.
3. Isla Verde - best area for a beach holiday and families close to the airport 🏖️
- 📍 Distance from the centre: The hotels line Avenida Isla Verde, right behind the beach. It’s just over 10 km to Old San Juan.
- 🚕 Transport: On foot between the beach, hotels and restaurants. Uber or taxi to Condado and Old San Juan.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: SJU airport is in Isla Verde itself, around 2 km from the hotels. Allow 5 to 10 minutes by taxi, which is an estimate.
- 💰 Price range: €€ to €€€€. A wide choice, from small hotels behind the beach to big beachfront resorts.
- 👮 Safety: A quiet holiday area around the hotels. Don’t leave valuables on the beach while you swim.
Isla Verde is San Juan’s answer to the classic beach holiday: a long sandy beach with palm trees, hotels right on the sand, and restaurants and shops close by. I’d choose Isla Verde if the beach matters most, if you’re travelling with children, or if you just want an easy first or last night.
The convenience is down to the airport. According to the official tourist board, Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport is in Isla Verde in the municipality of Carolina, just minutes from San Juan, and it’s around 2 km from the terminal to the beach hotels. The airport itself says that taxis run at regulated fares and that Uber is the only ride-hailing service on the island. The airport is also where you pick up and drop off the hire car.
See hotels in Isla Verde here.
You pay for the convenience with less charm. Isla Verde is a wide main road lined with high-rises, and if you want to see the fortresses in Old San Juan, allow 20 to 30 minutes each way by taxi or Uber, which is an estimate. On the other hand, the beach is wide and long, and to the east is the public beach Balneario de Carolina, which the tourist board singles out as one of the most visited because it’s so clean.
I’d use Isla Verde in two ways. Either as a base for a week of pure beach holiday, with one day trip to Old San Juan and one to the rainforest. Or as a single night on arrival or before the journey home, so you don’t have to drive through the city for an early flight. Three to four nights is enough if you’re combining the beach with the rest of the island.
Places to Stay in Isla Verde
The Royal Sonesta San Juan - large beach resort with a pool and a spa right on Isla Verde Beach
The Royal Sonesta San Juan is right on Isla Verde Beach, just over 2 km from the airport terminal. The resort has an outdoor pool with a swim-up bar, a spa, several restaurants and bars, and a playground for the children. You can choose between rooms with a garden or ocean view, club rooms with a balcony and suites.
It’s my suggestion for families and couples who want everything in one place on the beach. Expect a nightly resort fee and a parking charge on top of the price, and check whether breakfast is included in the rate you book. One guest mentions that there were too few sunloungers and parasols both on the beach and by the pool.
On the beach, one guest writes on Booking.com: “Beach proximity and access was excellent.”
See photos and book The Royal Sonesta San Juan here.
Embassy Suites by Hilton San Juan - all-suite hotel with breakfast and a casino five minutes from the beach
Embassy Suites by Hilton San Juan is a couple of streets behind the beach, about a five-minute walk from the sand. You stay in a suite or a studio, and breakfast is included in the price and cooked to order. The hotel has an outdoor pool with a bar, restaurants, a gym and a casino.
I’d choose it for families who need space, and for anyone who’d like resort facilities without paying for the beachfront. The hotel charges for parking and adds a daily resort fee on top of the price. One guest mentions that the lifts didn’t always work and that the wait for them was long.
One guest sums it up on Booking.com: “Lovely suites, great pool area with bar, excellent restaurant.”
See photos and book Embassy Suites by Hilton San Juan here.
Hotel Villa del Sol - small hotel with a pool close to both the beach and the airport
Hotel Villa del Sol is the budget choice in Isla Verde, about 300 metres from the beach and just under 2 km from the airport. The hotel has an outdoor pool and free parking, and you can choose between rooms with a king-size bed, a queen-size bed or two double beds, and a family suite.
It’s ideal for a night before or after your flight, and for a beach holiday on a smaller budget. There’s no restaurant, breakfast or lift, and parking spaces are few. One guest writes that the walls are paper-thin, and another was bothered by noise from the street, so ask for a room away from the road.
One guest writes about the location on Booking.com: “The hotel is in the perfect location, near Isla Verde Beach, restaurants and shopping.”
See photos and book Hotel Villa del Sol here.
4. Río Grande, Luquillo & Fajardo - best area for the El Yunque rainforest, beaches and a resort holiday 🌴
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Three small towns along the coast north and east of the rainforest. From the beach in Luquillo, it’s about 6 km to El Yunque’s visitor centre and just over 20 km to the ferry terminal in Ceiba.
- 🚗 Transport: You’ll need a hire car. Ride-hailing services such as Uber aren’t allowed to drop off or pick up at the rainforest’s entrance and visitor centre.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: According to the tourist board, it’s a 30-minute drive from SJU to Luquillo and an hour and a quarter from San Juan to Fajardo. Río Grande is closest to the airport.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€€. Simple guesthouses by the rainforest and some of the island’s biggest and most expensive resorts on the coast.
- 👮 Safety: Quiet small towns. In the rainforest, it often rains in the afternoon and the trails get slippery, so wear proper shoes.
The north-east coast is the natural first stop when you leave San Juan. This is where you’ll find El Yunque, which according to the US Forest Service is the only tropical rainforest among the USA’s national forests, and below the mountains are the beaches of Luquillo and the marina in Fajardo. It’s also from here that you travel on to Vieques and Culebra.
Plan the rainforest before you book. The US Forest Service says that access to the main area via road PR-191 in Río Grande is free and doesn’t require a reservation, but that visitor numbers are managed according to how many parking spaces there are. So arrive early in the morning, and check the page before you set off, because the rules can change. The El Portal visitor centre is the obvious first stop.
See hotels in Luquillo and on the north-east coast here.
The three towns each have their own role. Río Grande has the big resorts on the coast and small guesthouses on the edge of the forest. Luquillo is a laid-back beach town with La Monserrate beach, which the tourist board describes as known for shallow water and golden sand, and a long row of food kiosks with more than 60 vendors. Fajardo is furthest east, beside Laguna Grande, which the tourist board calls the island’s most visited bioluminescent bay, and where the kayak tours take place in the evening.
I’d stay two to three nights here: a day in the rainforest, a beach day and an evening kayaking on the lagoon. If you’re taking the ferry to Vieques, a night in Fajardo or Luquillo is also far smarter than driving from San Juan the same morning. Río Grande is the easiest choice with children, because the resorts have everything on site, while Luquillo gives you the most beach atmosphere for your money.
Places to Stay in Río Grande, Luquillo & Fajardo
El Conquistador Resort - large family resort with a water park and its own island near Fajardo
El Conquistador Resort is on the coast north-east of Fajardo, about 2 km from Laguna Grande. It’s one of the island’s big resorts, with several pools, a water park, an 18-hole golf course, a spa and several restaurants. The resort’s beach is on the small island of Palomino, which guests are taken out to by boat.
Come here with children or as a couple if you want a resort where the days take care of themselves. The rooms range from garden view to ocean view and suites with up to three bedrooms. Expect a nightly resort fee, which covers the water park and the boat trip to the island among other things, and a charge for parking. Guests mention that the food at the hotel is expensive.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Amazing resort with amazing staff.”
See photos and book El Conquistador Resort here.
Luquillo Sunrise Beach Inn - small beach hotel with ocean views in Luquillo
Luquillo Sunrise Beach Inn is in Luquillo, with the beach just across the street. The rooms have an ocean view and air conditioning, and there’s a family suite with a balcony. The hotel has a restaurant and free parking, and it’s about one and a half kilometres to the swimming beach of La Monserrate.
It’s my suggestion if you want to stay by the water without resort prices and visit the rainforest as a day trip. There’s no lift, only stairs, and breakfast isn’t included in the price. One guest calls their room a little worn, so expect charm rather than luxury.
One guest praises the place on Booking.com: “Great location, nice clean room, nice cafes and restaurants very close.”
See photos and book Luquillo Sunrise Beach Inn here.
La Casa de Vida Natural - simple guesthouse surrounded by nature on the edge of El Yunque
La Casa de Vida Natural is in Río Grande, set in greenery on the edge of the rainforest. You can stay in anything from a tent to a double room with a balcony or a bungalow, and breakfast is included in the price, with vegetarian and vegan options too. The place has a garden, a spa offering massages, a restaurant and free parking.
Choose it if you want to wake up to the sounds of the forest and don’t need hotel comforts. The rooms are cooled by fans, and you’ll need a car to get around. Cats, chickens and a dog roam freely, and one guest didn’t care for the smell from the animals in the garden. Another writes bluntly that it isn’t the place if you want a hotel experience.
One guest describes the place on Booking.com: “Amazing place! Set close to El Yunque, the property is immersed in nature, making you relaxed instantly.”
See photos and book La Casa de Vida Natural here.
5. Vieques - best island for the bioluminescent bay, quiet beaches and a slower pace 🐎
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Two small towns: Isabel Segunda on the north coast, where the ferry docks, and Esperanza on the south coast, about 7 km away. Most of the small hotels are in and around Esperanza.
- 🚙 Transport: Hire a jeep, car, scooter or golf cart on the island. Hire cars from the main island can’t go on the ferry.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Vieques has its own small airport, with small planes from San Juan taking about 25 minutes. By ferry, you first drive to Ceiba, about an hour and a half from San Juan, and then sail for an hour.
- 💰 Price range: €€ to €€€. Small guesthouses and a few smaller resorts, and prices rise noticeably in high season.
- 👮 Safety: A quiet island. Drive slowly, because the wild horses roam freely on the roads.
Vieques is the small island off the east coast, and the place on the trip where the pace drops the most. According to the tourist board, more than half of the island is protected as the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, wild horses roam freely, and you stay in guesthouses rather than big hotels. I’d choose Vieques for two or three nights in the middle or at the end of the trip.
The big draw is Mosquito Bay, which according to the tourist board’s guide to the bioluminescent bays was recognised by Guinness World Records in 2006 as the brightest of its kind in the world. You get out there on a guided kayak tour, the tours usually meet in Esperanza, and the glow is strongest around the new moon. So book the tour before you book the rest, and stay at least two nights so you’ve got an evening in reserve.
The ferry sails from Ceiba on the east coast. The operator, Puerto Rico Ferry, gives the crossing time as one hour and asks you to arrive an hour before departure, and an adult ticket costs 2 US dollars per trip according to the operator’s fares. The operator only carries cars owned by residents of the islands, so the hire car stays in the paid car park in Ceiba, and you hire another one on Vieques. If you want to get there faster, there are small planes from San Juan and from Ceiba.
Stay in Esperanza if you want to be able to walk to the waterfront restaurants and to the meeting point for the kayak tours. Sun Bay beach is just east of the town, and the waves there are gentle, according to the tourist board. The neighbouring island of Culebra can also be reached by ferry from Ceiba, and that crossing takes an hour and a half, according to the operator. On a short trip, I’d choose just one of the two islands.
Places to Stay on Vieques
Blue Horizon Boutique Resort - adults-only resort with a pool and ocean views outside Esperanza
Blue Horizon Boutique Resort is on the waterfront, just under one and a half kilometres west of the seafront promenade in Esperanza and about 4 km from the island’s airport. The resort is for adults only and has an outdoor pool, a restaurant, a bar and free parking. The best rooms are in the front row facing the ocean and have their own covered terrace.
It’s the island’s take on small-scale luxury, and ideal for couples who want peace, views and good food at the hotel. You’ll need a car or a golf cart to get into town, as one guest also notes. Guests also mention minor faults in the rooms, including a dripping shower and a fridge that didn’t work.
One guest says on Booking.com: “Beautiful property, beautiful setting, extremely friendly staff, everyone who worked there could not have been more helpful.”
See photos and book Blue Horizon Boutique Resort here.
Esperanza Inn Guesthouse - guesthouse with a pool a few minutes from the seafront promenade in Esperanza
Esperanza Inn Guesthouse is in Esperanza, about 400 metres from the seafront promenade and just over 2 km from Sun Bay beach. All rooms have a private bathroom and air conditioning, and some have a kitchenette. There’s a pool, a shared kitchen and free parking, and you can borrow beach chairs and towels.
I’d choose it if you want to stay within walking distance of the restaurants and the meeting point for the kayak tours while still having a pool to come back to. It’s a small place with hosts that guests praise. One guest thought the room was a little small, and another that the shower head didn’t work properly.
On the guesthouse, one guest writes on Booking.com: “The Inn was very cosy, well equipped, comfortable and very clean.”
See photos and book Esperanza Inn Guesthouse here.
Isla Hermosa Guesthouse - cheap guesthouse in the countryside between the island’s two towns
Isla Hermosa Guesthouse is in a rural setting, just over 2 km from the ferry terminal in Isabel Segunda and about 6 km from Esperanza. You can choose between a suite for two and a two-bedroom suite for up to five people, both with a private bathroom and air conditioning. There’s a shared kitchen, a sun terrace and free parking.
It’s my budget pick on Vieques, and a good choice if you’re hiring a car or a golf cart anyway, because you won’t get far from here without one. Guests mention that the road up to the house is bumpy and that a peacock screeches at night. Earplugs are provided in the room.
One guest describes their room on Booking.com: “The room is clean, very nicely equipped and cosy.”
See photos and book Isla Hermosa Guesthouse here.
6. Guánica & La Parguera - best area for calm water, small islands and dry forest on the south-west coast 🚤
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Two small places on the south-west coast, just over 11 km apart. The hotels are near Guánica, on the coast of the dry forest and in the village of La Parguera.
- 🚗 Transport: You’ll need a hire car. You get out to the small islands by boat or kayak.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Around two and a quarter hours by car from San Juan to La Parguera, according to the tourist board. Guánica is a little closer.
- 💰 Price range: €€ to €€€. Few hotels, only one big resort, and usually lower prices than in San Juan.
- 👮 Safety: Peaceful and quiet. The dry forest is hot and dry, so take plenty of water on your hike.
The south-west coast is Puerto Rico’s quiet corner. The coast faces the Caribbean Sea, and the water is usually calmer than on the north coast, which takes the Atlantic swells. I’d add a stop here on a trip around the island if you want to snorkel, sail between small islands and hike in a landscape that looks nothing like the rainforest.
La Parguera is a small village with no real beaches. Instead, according to the tourist board, it’s surrounded by pristine small islands that you can sail out to in a hired boat or with the local tour operators. The village also has one of the island’s three bioluminescent bays, and it’s the only one of them where motorboats are allowed, so you can experience it without paddling.
See hotels in Guánica and La Parguera here.
Guánica is just over 11 km to the east and is the gateway to the dry forest, which the tourist board calls the best preserved in the Caribbean. The forest is designated a biosphere reserve and has 12 hiking trails, some of which end at small, secluded beaches. Off the coast is the small island of Cayo Aurora, better known as Gilligan’s Island, which you reach by kayak or boat and which is surrounded by shallow, crystal-clear water.
Choose La Parguera if you want a bit of life in the evening and boat trips on your doorstep, and Guánica if you want a resort, beach and nature. From here, you can also drive to Cabo Rojo for the day, where the water at the beach in Boquerón has almost no waves, according to the tourist board. Two to three nights is about right, and because there are few hotels in both places, you should book well in advance.
Places to Stay in Guánica & La Parguera
Copamarina Beach Resort & Spa - beach resort with two pools by the dry forest in Guánica
Copamarina Beach Resort & Spa is right on the beach, just over 6 km east of Guánica and close to the dry forest. The resort has two outdoor pools, hot tubs, a spa, restaurants and a tennis court, and there are water sports such as kayaking, diving and snorkelling on site. You can choose between rooms with a garden or ocean view, suites and villas.
It’s the area’s only big resort, and my suggestion for families and couples who want beach, pool and nature all in one place. Parking is free, but breakfast isn’t included in the price, and one guest was disappointed by the breakfast in particular, both the price and what you got for the money. It’s just under 18 km to La Parguera, so the boat trips from there mean a drive.
One guest describes the resort on Booking.com: “The resort itself is an amazing oasis away from crowded cities, with beautiful sea views and a large property full of palm trees and several pool areas.”
See photos and book Copamarina Beach Resort & Spa here.
Nautilus by La Jamaca - modern rooms with a balcony and a pool in the middle of La Parguera
Nautilus by La Jamaca is in the middle of La Parguera, about 300 metres from the centre of the village. The rooms have a balcony and air conditioning, and you can choose between a double room and a room with a king-size bed. The hotel has an outdoor pool and free parking.
Stay here if you want to be able to walk to the boats, bars and restaurants in the village. One guest specifically praises the fact that the hotel is right by the main street yet far enough away for it to be quiet at night. Breakfast isn’t included in the price, and one guest mentions that their balcony faced the car park.
On the rooms, one guest writes on Booking.com: “The room was modern, cosy, and tastefully furnished.”
See photos and book Nautilus by La Jamaca here.
Parador Guánica 1929 - parador with a pool and a restaurant near Guánica
Parador Guánica 1929 is my budget pick on the south-west coast, set a little on its own near Guánica. There’s an outdoor pool, a restaurant, a playground and free parking, and the rooms have either a king-size bed or two double beds. One guest describes the place as a large, handsome building with a view of the sea.
It suits families and anyone who wants a quiet, cheap place to stay and has a car. The hotel isn’t on a swimming beach. It’s just over 4 km to Playa Santa beach, so expect to drive every time you want a swim. Check, too, whether breakfast is included in the rate you book.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “A great place to stay away from the crowds.”
See photos and book Parador Guánica 1929 here.
7. Isabela & Aguadilla - best area for surfing and beaches on the north-west coast 🏄
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Two towns on the north-west coast. From the surf beach of Jobos, it’s just over 5 km to Isabela’s plaza and just over 12 km to Aguadilla.
- 🚗 Transport: You’ll need a hire car, because the beaches are spread out along the coast.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Aguadilla’s airport (BQN) is a 15 to 25-minute drive from Isabela, which is an estimate. From the airport in San Juan, the tourist board gives 2 to 2.5 hours to the west region.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€€. Cheap rooms and apartments in the towns and one very expensive luxury resort.
- 👮 Safety: Several of the surf beaches have strong currents. Swim in the sheltered parts of Jobos or in the natural pool at Montones.
The north-west coast is Puerto Rico’s surf coast. According to the tourist board, the island’s surf scene stretches from Isabela and Aguadilla to Rincón, and the waves are most consistent from October to April, when the Atlantic swells roll in from the north and west. In summer, the sea is usually calmer. I’d choose this area if you want to surf, watch sunsets and stay somewhere the hotels are further apart.
In Isabela, Jobos is the best-known beach. It has restaurants, bars and surf shops, and parts of it are suitable for swimming, according to the tourist board. Middles is for experienced surfers, while the rocks at Montones form a natural pool where it’s safe to swim. Along the coast runs the Paseo Lineal cycling and running path, which is just over 7 km long.
See hotels in Isabela and Aguadilla here.
Aguadilla is to the south-west and has the island’s second-largest airport, Rafael Hernández (BQN). If you can fly there, you’ll save yourself the drive across the island. The town’s best-known beach is Crash Boat, which the tourist board calls one of Puerto Rico’s most iconic, with an old pier and clear water for snorkelling. Rincón, which the same source calls the surfing capital of the Caribbean, is further down the west coast and makes an obvious day trip, not least in the humpback whale season from January to March.
Stay in or near Isabela if the beaches matter most, and in Aguadilla if you want an ordinary hotel with a pool close to the airport. Two to three nights is enough for a couple of beach days and a day trip. If you’re flying home from San Juan, don’t plan the drive back for the same morning as your flight.
Places to Stay in Isabela & Aguadilla
Royal Isabela - luxury resort with casitas, a golf course and ocean views
Royal Isabela is east of Isabela, about 4 km from the town’s plaza. You stay in your own casita with a nature or ocean view, and the resort has a golf course, a pool, a restaurant, a bar and a tennis court. There’s access to the beach from the resort, and parking is free.
It’s the big splurge of the north-west coast, and by far the most expensive of my three suggestions. Choose it for a special occasion, or if golf is part of the holiday. You’ll be staying off the beaten track, so expect to drive to Jobos, which is just over 9 km away. One guest mentions that the showers in the casitas’ bathrooms needed maintenance.
One enthusiastic guest writes on Booking.com: “I loved the place, the staff, the service, and the casita.”
See photos and book Royal Isabela here.
Hotel Vista Azul - hotel with a pool and views close to Crash Boat Beach
Hotel Vista Azul is in Aguadilla, just over one and a half kilometres from Crash Boat Beach and just under 6 km from Aguadilla’s airport. The hotel has a pool with a view, a restaurant, a bar, a gym, a playground and free parking. The rooms are simple and have either one double bed, two double beds or a king-size bed.
Choose it if you want an ordinary hotel at a reasonable price and you’d like to stay close to both the beach and the airport. The hotel has evening entertainment with music, so don’t count on silence every night. One guest says they came across a real Puerto Rican party by chance and thought it was great.
One guest keeps it short on Booking.com: “Clean hotel, without any frills.”
See photos and book Hotel Vista Azul here.
Itza-Bella Suites - cheap rooms with a kitchenette in the middle of Isabela
Itza-Bella Suites is my budget pick, in the middle of Isabela about 200 metres from the town’s plaza. All rooms and studios have a kitchenette, a private bathroom and air conditioning, and there’s free parking. You check yourself in, so don’t expect a staffed reception.
It’s a practical, cheap base if you’re spending your days on the beaches. There’s no pool, and it’s just over 5 km to Jobos, so you’ll need a car. One guest was given two rooms with one bed each instead of the rooms with two double beds they’d booked, so double-check the bed type in your confirmation.
Short and sweet from one guest on Booking.com: “Excellent location.”
See photos and book Itza-Bella Suites here.
Where should you avoid staying in Puerto Rico?
I wouldn’t stay in San Juan for the whole trip if you want to see more than the capital and the rainforest. The island is only around 160 km wide, but the mountain roads are winding, and the tourist board gives 2 to 2.5 hours from the airport in San Juan to the west coast. That’s too far for a day trip. I wouldn’t drive from San Juan on the same morning as the ferry to Vieques sails either. It’s about an hour and a half’s drive to Ceiba, and you need to be there an hour before departure.
Don’t choose Old San Juan either if the beach is the main thing, or Isla Verde if you’re mostly coming for the history. And remember the hurricane season. In the Atlantic, it runs from 1 June to 30 November, and according to the US National Hurricane Center, most of the activity falls between mid-August and mid-October. If you’re travelling in those months, book hotels that can be cancelled.
If I had to pick one route for a first week-long trip, it’d be three nights in Old San Juan or Condado, two nights on the north-east coast by El Yunque and two nights on Vieques. That gives you city, rainforest and a bioluminescent bay without spending much time in the car.
If you’ve got ten days or more, I’d carry on clockwise around the island: two to three nights near Guánica and La Parguera and two to three in Isabela or Aguadilla, before you drive back to San Juan. If you just want a beach holiday without a car, Isla Verde is the easiest choice, and Condado the best if you want city life too.
A couple of practical things to finish. Puerto Rico is a US territory, and the currency is the US dollar. The entry rules are the same as for the rest of the USA and depend on your passport, so check the requirements with US Customs and Border Protection in good time. Note, too, that several of the big hotels add a daily resort fee and a parking charge on top of the price you see when you book.
If you’re flying via the US mainland, you can add a couple of days along the way. See my guide to where to stay in Miami, or read about where to stay in New York. And if you can’t decide between the Caribbean and Central America this year, you can compare it with my guide to where to stay in Costa Rica, which is also about rainforest, beaches and a hire car.
Travel ressources & websites I use all the time 👇
• Booking.com has the best offers on hotels and unique places to stay
• GetYourGuide is the best place to book tours & activities with free cancellation
• Welcome Pickups is the best & safest place to pre-book airport transfers
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