Costa Rica is rainforest, volcanoes and two coasts in one small country. On the same trip, you can soak in hot springs by Arenal Volcano, walk across hanging bridges in the cloud forest and spot sloths in the trees behind the beach. It’s an easy country to travel around on your own, but the roads are slow, and distances look shorter on the map than they feel on the road.
That’s why it matters so much where you base yourself. Most travellers get more out of two or three places than a new hotel every night. Here are my recommendations for seven areas in Costa Rica, with good hotels in three price ranges in each.
Contents
The Best Areas in Costa Rica
- La Fortuna & Arenal - best area for first-time visitors, the volcano and hot springs
- Monteverde - best area for cloud forest, hanging bridges and birdlife
- Manuel Antonio - best area for wildlife and beaches by the national park
- Tamarindo - best area for surfing, beach life and evenings out
- Papagayo & Playa Hermosa - best area for families and a resort holiday close to the airport
- Santa Teresa - best area for surfing, yoga and a slow pace
- Puerto Viejo - best area for a Caribbean atmosphere and bike rides along the coast
Below, I’ll take you through the seven places one by one, with a map, drive times from the airports and three hotels in each: a luxury hotel, a mid-range one and one for a smaller budget. The drive times are estimates, because rain, roadworks and traffic can easily add half an hour.
1. La Fortuna & Arenal - best area for first-time visitors, the volcano and hot springs 🌋
- 📍 Distance from the centre: La Fortuna is a small town you can get around on foot. Many of the hotels with hot springs are 5 to 13 km to the west, along the road out towards the volcano.
- 🚗 Transport: A hire car is the easiest option. Without one, you’ll manage with taxis and tours that pick you up at your hotel.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Allow 2.5 to 3 hours by car from San José (SJO) and around 3 hours from Liberia (LIR). Both are estimates.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€€. Simple rooms in town and expensive resorts with their own springs out by the volcano.
- 👮 Safety: A quiet town. Try to drive in daylight, and don’t leave valuables on show in the car.
La Fortuna is my first choice for a first trip to Costa Rica. The town has Arenal Volcano as its neighbour, and on clear days you can see the cone from the park in front of the church in the middle of town. The road here is paved all the way, so it’s also an easy first stop with a hire car.
The hot springs are what most people come for. They’re along the road west of town, and several of the hotels have their own pools of warm spring water. According to the Costa Rican tourist board, Arenal Volcano National Park is 15 km from La Fortuna and has several marked trails that take you through the forest and across old lava flows.
See hotels in La Fortuna and near Arenal here.
The main decision is whether to stay in town or out by the volcano. In town, you can walk to restaurants, the supermarket and tour operators, and you’ll pay less. Out along the road, you get gardens, peace and quiet and your own springs, but you’ll need to drive or take a taxi every time you want to go into town to eat. I’d choose a hotel by the volcano if your budget stretches to it, and the town if you’re travelling without a car. La Fortuna Waterfall is a few kilometres south-west of town and makes the classic half-day trip when you need a break from the pools.
Set aside at least two nights, and ideally three. The volcano often hides behind clouds, and an extra day gives you a better chance of seeing it. From here, many travellers continue to Monteverde. The two places are close as the crow flies, but Lake Arenal lies in between, so allow three to three and a half hours on the road.
Places to Stay in La Fortuna & Arenal
Nayara Gardens - luxury in a tropical garden with its own hot springs
Nayara Gardens is my pick for the big splurge at Arenal. The hotel is around seven kilometres from La Fortuna and has its own hot springs, a pool, a spa, a gym and a restaurant. The rooms are large: a Deluxe Room measures 97 square metres, and the suites have a private pool.
It’s a natural choice for a honeymoon or as the finale to a trip around the country, when you’re happy to stay at the hotel for most of the day. The price is very high, and one guest finds the food above average but not great. So it’s worth eating in town on a couple of evenings.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The staff were very friendly and couldn’t do enough to help us.”
See photos and book Nayara Gardens here.
Arenal Manoa Hot Springs Resort - its own hot springs at a more reasonable price
Arenal Manoa is the hotel I’d choose if you want to stay out by the volcano without paying top prices. The resort is seven kilometres from town and has its own hot springs, a pool with a pool bar, a restaurant and a spa, and breakfast is included.
There are plenty of room types, from the Junior Room to a villa and a suite with a private pool, so both couples and families can find something that fits. Expect to eat at the hotel or drive into town. One guest mentions that the food at the hotel costs more than in town, but that the quality is good.
One guest writes about the hot springs on Booking.com: “The hot springs were the highlight for us, they were wonderful.”
See photos and book Arenal Manoa Hot Springs Resort here.
Viajero La Fortuna Hostel - cheap rooms and a pool in the middle of town
Viajero is my budget pick in La Fortuna, a few hundred metres from the park in the middle of town. It has both dorms and private double rooms with their own bathroom, and you get a pool, a restaurant, a bar and a shared kitchen into the bargain.
It’s a good fit if you’re travelling solo or as a couple and want to meet other travellers and book tours in the same place. It’s a lively hostel, and one guest writes that the rooms aren’t soundproof at all. Bring earplugs, or choose one of the other two hotels if you’re a light sleeper.
One guest highlights the kitchen on Booking.com: “Great kitchen with all of the utensils and dishes you may need!”
See photos and book Viajero La Fortuna Hostel here.
2. Monteverde - best area for cloud forest, hanging bridges and birdlife 🌿
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Santa Elena is the area’s small town. The hotels are in town or along the road up towards the cloud forest reserve, which is a good six kilometres away as the crow flies.
- 🚙 Transport: A car with high ground clearance is an advantage, as the roads out to the reserves are partly gravel. Many tours include hotel pick-up.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Allow 3 to 3.5 hours from San José (SJO) and around 3 hours from Liberia (LIR). These are estimates, and the last stretch up the mountain is winding and slow.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€. Lots of small lodges and guesthouses, and a handful of expensive hotels.
- 👮 Safety: A safe area. It’s cool, windy and often wet, and the roads are dark in the evening.
Monteverde is Costa Rica’s cloud forest. Here, you walk on trails and hanging bridges among the treetops, and the temperature is completely different from down on the coast. I’d choose Monteverde if birds, nature and hiking matter more to you than a pool and a beach.
The town itself is called Santa Elena, and this is where you’ll find restaurants, a supermarket and most of the cheap places to stay. The best-known reserve is the Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve. You book a time slot in advance, park at the visitor centre and ride the last stretch on the reserve’s shuttle. Arrive in good time, because the bus won’t wait for you. Besides the famous reserve, there’s also the Santa Elena Reserve, Curi-Cancha and private parks such as Selvatura, so you can easily fill two whole days.
See hotels in Monteverde here.
The road up to Santa Elena is paved, but several of the roads onwards to the reserves and the more remote lodges are steep gravel tracks. If you’re hiring a car, I’d choose one with high ground clearance, especially in the rainy season. If you’re staying in Santa Elena, you can manage without a car and let the tour operators pick you up. Bear in mind, too, that the last stretch up the mountain takes time. It’s under 20 kilometres from the main road, but the bends mean the drive can easily take 40 minutes.
Pack a warm jumper and a rain jacket. Not all hotels have heating in the rooms, and guests write about cold nights and wind. Two nights are enough for most people. That gives you time for a guided walk in the forest in the morning, a trip across the hanging bridges and a night walk, where the guide finds the animals for you. Monteverde sits between La Fortuna and the Pacific coast, so it fits in well as the second stop on a trip around the country.
Places to Stay in Monteverde
Hotel Belmar - classic luxury hotel with a spa and a restaurant
Hotel Belmar is Monteverde’s classic luxury choice, around four kilometres from Santa Elena in the direction of the reserve. It has a restaurant, a bar, a spa and a hot tub, and several of the room types come with a terrace or a balcony.
Belmar is for couples who want good food and comfort after a day in the forest. Breakfast isn’t necessarily included in the price, so check when you book. One guest writes that the rooms were very cold and that the wind howled through the poorly sealed windows all night. That’s part of life in the mountains, but pack accordingly.
One guest sums up their stay on Booking.com: “Lovely hotel, good room, great balcony.”
See photos and book Hotel Belmar here.
Hotel Montaña Monteverde - large rooms with mountain views and breakfast
Montaña Monteverde is around a kilometre and a half from Santa Elena and about four kilometres from the cloud forest reserve. The rooms look out over the mountains, there’s a restaurant and a bar on site, and breakfast is included in the price.
It’s a good choice for families and couples who want more space than a guesthouse offers without paying luxury prices. There are family rooms too. The hotel is showing its age, and one guest calls it old school and not really accessible. The rooms have neither air conditioning nor heating, so pack for cool nights.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Large rooms, good location near Monteverde with really nice views, great breakfast.”
See photos and book Hotel Montaña Monteverde here.
Cabinas Eddy B&B - cheap guesthouse with breakfast in the middle of Santa Elena
Cabinas Eddy is the cheap option in Monteverde, around 100 metres from the centre of Santa Elena. You can walk to restaurants and the supermarket, and breakfast is included in the price. There’s a shared kitchen, and reception will help you book tours.
Choose your room type carefully: the Double Room with Private Bathroom has its own bathroom, while the Small Double Room doesn’t. The location in the middle of town also means noise, and one guest writes that it isn’t the place if you want to relax or sleep well. For two nights with a full programme, it’s a decent, cheap base.
One guest describes the rooms on Booking.com: “The rooms are decent, very clean and with everything you need.”
See photos and book Cabinas Eddy B&B here.
3. Manuel Antonio - best area for wildlife and beaches by the national park 🦥
- 📍 Distance from the centre: The hotels are strung along the road from the port town of Quepos, over the hill and down to the beach and the national park entrance.
- 🚕 Transport: Taxi or your hotel’s shuttle between the hill and the beach. The national park has no car park, so a car is mostly for trips out of the area.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Allow 2.5 to 3 hours by car from San José (SJO). It’s an estimate and depends on the traffic.
- 💰 Price range: €€ to €€€€. An expensive area, where really cheap hotels with good reviews are few and far between.
- 👮 Safety: The waves can be powerful at Playa Espadilla. Keep an eye on your bag on the beach, and never feed the monkeys.
Manuel Antonio is where the rainforest runs all the way down to the beach. The national park is one of the most visited in the country, and you’ve got a good chance of seeing monkeys, sloths and toucans in a single morning. The authorities have recorded around 352 species of birds and 109 species of mammals in the park. I’d choose the area if you want to combine wildlife and a beach holiday without changing hotels.
Plan your visit to the park before you book a hotel. Tickets for Manuel Antonio National Park are only sold online, the park is closed on Tuesdays, and it’s open from early morning until mid-afternoon. I’d take one of the first time slots in the morning and book a guided tour, because the animals are hard to spot on your own. There are several swimming beaches inside the park, including Playa Manuel Antonio and Espadilla Sur, so bring your swimwear.
See hotels in Manuel Antonio here.
The area has two kinds of address. Up on the hill between Quepos and the beach are many of the larger hotels with pools and views, and from here you’ll need a taxi or shuttle down to the water. Down by Playa Espadilla and the park entrance, you’re within walking distance of everything, but the hotels are packed more closely together. I’d stay down by the beach on a short visit, and up on the hill if the pool and the view are part of the holiday.
Three nights is about right. That gives you a day for the park, a beach day at Playa Espadilla, which is the area’s big public beach, and a day in reserve in case the weather plays up. Prices are high, and in high season there’s heavy traffic on the road between Quepos and the beach, so book well ahead.
Places to Stay in Manuel Antonio
Parador Nature Resort and Spa - large resort with three pools out on Punta Quepos
Parador stands on its own out on Punta Quepos and is the area’s big resort, with three pools, three restaurants, a spa, a gym and mini golf. Breakfast is included in the price, and the hotel runs a free shuttle to the beaches by the national park.
The resort is aimed at families and couples who want everything in one place. There are rooms with two double beds, as well as Vista Suites, which are reserved for adults. The drawback is the distance, as it’s around a quarter of an hour’s drive to the park entrance. One guest also mentions that the breakfast got repetitive after a week.
One guest points out on Booking.com: “The resort is very family-friendly and the staff is very nice.”
See photos and book Parador Nature Resort and Spa here.
Hotel Plaza Yara - rooms with a kitchenette and a pool up on the hill
Plaza Yara is up on the hill at the Quepos end of the road, a good three kilometres as the crow flies from the national park entrance. The hotel has an outdoor pool, the rooms have a kitchenette, and breakfast is included.
Plaza Yara gives you plenty of space and one of the best-reviewed hotels in the area without resort prices. There’s also a two-bedroom house for families. There’s no restaurant at the hotel, and you’ll need a taxi or a car for both the beach and the national park. One guest found the reception a little hard to find.
One guest writes about the wildlife on Booking.com: “We saw and heard so many animals while there!”
See photos and book Hotel Plaza Yara here.
El Faro Containers Beach Hotel - container rooms and an infinity pool by the park entrance
El Faro is the cheapest of my three suggestions and the one best placed for the national park. The hotel is 50 metres from the entrance and around 300 metres from Playa Espadilla. The rooms are built from shipping containers, and there’s an infinity pool and a restaurant, with breakfast included in the price.
I’d pick it for a short stay where the park and the beach are the main event. The hotel is built up a steep slope. There’s a lift, but one guest describes the walk up to the top as a workout every single time, so it isn’t ideal if you have limited mobility.
One guest writes about the location on Booking.com: “The location is amazing, right next to the entrance of the park and only 10 min walk from the beach.”
See photos and book El Faro Containers Beach Hotel here.
4. Tamarindo - best area for surfing, beach life and evenings out 🏄
- 📍 Distance from the centre: A compact beach town where you can walk between the beach, restaurants and shops in a few minutes.
- 🚶 Transport: You can get around town on foot. Hire a car or book a tour if you want to visit the neighbouring beaches.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Allow 1 to 1.5 hours by car from Liberia (LIR). From San José (SJO), the drive is more like 4 hours or longer. Both are estimates.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€€. A wide choice, from surf hostels to expensive hotels right on the beach.
- 👮 Safety: A busy resort town with vendors on the beach and music in the evening. Don’t leave your things unattended while you swim.
Tamarindo is one of Costa Rica’s best-known surf towns and one of the easiest places for a beach holiday without a car. The Costa Rican tourist board calls Playa Tamarindo one of the most famous surfing beaches. The beach has also held the Blue Flag for many years. I’d choose the town if surfing, beach life and restaurants within walking distance are what you’re travelling for.
The town is small enough to walk everywhere. The beach is wide, the sun sets over the sea, and in the evening the streets behind the beach come alive. It isn’t the place if you’re dreaming of a quiet bay to yourself. You’ll find beach vendors, music and plenty of other tourists here, especially in high season.
Choose your hotel according to how much life you want around you. Right down by the beach in the middle of town, you’re closest to everything, but also to the music. A couple of streets back from the beach, it’s quieter and cheaper, and you’re still only a five to ten-minute walk from the water. To the south, the town continues out towards Playa Langosta. Liberia is the obvious airport. If you fly into San José, it takes most of a day to get out here, which is why Tamarindo works best as the start or end of a trip via Liberia.
Tamarindo is in Guanacaste, where the landscape is dry forest, not rainforest. On the Pacific coast, the dry season lasts from December to March, and the rainy season runs from May to October. North of the bay are Playa Grande and Las Baulas Marine National Park, which make an easy half-day trip when you need a break from the surfboard.
Places to Stay in Tamarindo
Ocho Artisan Bungalows - bungalows with a pool right on the beach
Ocho Artisan Bungalows sits directly on Playa Tamarindo, within walking distance of the town’s restaurants. You stay in your own bungalow with a jungle or sea view, and there’s a large pool, a restaurant and a bar. Some of the bungalows have an outdoor shower.
It’s for couples who’d prefer somewhere stylish and personal to a big hotel. The price is high, and breakfast isn’t included in every rate. You’re staying in the middle of a lively resort town, and one guest writes that loud, pumping music made it difficult to relax and sleep.
One guest describes their bungalow on Booking.com: “The bungalow was very spacious and comfortable with lots of character.”
See photos and book Ocho Artisan Bungalows here.
Hotel Tamarindo Diria Beach Resort - large beach hotel with three pools in the middle of town
Tamarindo Diria is the town’s big beach hotel, on the seafront in the middle of Tamarindo. It has three outdoor pools, a children’s pool, four restaurants, a spa and a gym. The rooms are split into a family section and an adults-only section, where some rooms have a jacuzzi or a small plunge pool of their own.
It’s my suggestion for families and for anyone who wants resort facilities and the freedom to go out to eat every evening. Breakfast isn’t included in the room rate. One guest criticises the soundproofing and writes that the door lets every sound in, so don’t count on silence.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The hotel is excellent, the breakfast is excellent, and there are many pools and a beautiful beach.”
See photos and book Hotel Tamarindo Diria Beach Resort here.
Hostel La Botella de Leche - hostel with a pool and private rooms close to the beach
La Botella de Leche is my budget pick in Tamarindo, around 300 metres from the beach. It has both dorms and private rooms with their own bathroom, and you get a pool and a shared kitchen. Guests praise the atmosphere, and it’s an obvious choice if you’re travelling solo.
Don’t expect hotel comfort. There’s no hot water in the shower, only some of the rooms have air conditioning, and one guest describes their room as completely unfurnished and worn. I’d go for it if you’d rather spend your money on surfing and tours than on the room.
One guest picks out the highlights on Booking.com: “Great staff, location and free coffee.”
See photos and book Hostel La Botella de Leche here.
5. Papagayo & Playa Hermosa - best area for families and a resort holiday close to the airport 🏖️
- 📍 Distance from the centre: There’s no real town here. The resorts stand on their own out on the peninsula, and at Playa Hermosa the hotels and restaurants line a single beach.
- 🚗 Transport: Transfer or hire car. You’ll need to drive between the beaches, and at the resorts most things happen at the hotel.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Around 30 minutes by car from Liberia (LIR) to Playa Hermosa, and a little longer out to the peninsula. These are estimates.
- 💰 Price range: €€ to €€€€. The peninsula is very expensive, while Playa Hermosa is affordable.
- 👮 Safety: A guarded resort area on the peninsula and calm water in the bay. Take care on the dark roads in the evening.
The Gulf of Papagayo is Costa Rica’s answer to a classic resort holiday. The water is calmer than at the surf beaches further south, and you can land in Liberia and be sitting by the pool less than an hour later. I’d choose the area for a holiday with children or for the last relaxed days after touring the country.
There are two very different ways to stay here. Out on the Papagayo Peninsula itself, the big luxury resorts sit behind a guarded gate, and the beach, restaurants and activities are all part of the hotel. This is where you’ll find brands such as Four Seasons and Andaz, and several of the big hotels around the bay are sold as all-inclusive. At Playa Hermosa, you stay on an ordinary public beach with smaller hotels, restaurants within walking distance and as many locals as tourists.
See hotels near Papagayo and Playa Hermosa here.
The sand is dark, not white. That’s worth knowing before you compare it with pictures from the Caribbean. On the other hand, the water is warm and the waves are small, and between the peninsula and Playa Hermosa lies Playa Panamá, which is also known for its calm water. That makes the bay an easy place to swim with younger children.
The drawback is that there isn’t much within walking distance. If you want to eat somewhere new every evening or see rainforest and volcanoes, you’ll have to get in the car. So I wouldn’t spend the whole holiday here, but combine the bay with La Fortuna or Monteverde. The airport in Liberia is officially called Daniel Oduber Quirós, but it markets itself as Guanacaste Aeropuerto. That’s the one to fly into and out of if your holiday starts or ends by the bay.
Places to Stay in Papagayo & Playa Hermosa
Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort - luxury resort on the peninsula with a kids’ club and several pools
Andaz is out on the Papagayo Peninsula, around 25 kilometres from the airport in Liberia, with the beach a two-minute walk from the hotel. It has several pools, three restaurants, a spa, a tennis court and a kids’ club. You can choose between rooms with a view of the bay, suites with their own plunge pool and villas.
Andaz is for families and couples who want luxury without having to plan a thing. The price is very high, and breakfast isn’t included in every rate. You’re staying somewhere isolated, so almost every meal will be at the hotel. One guest thinks the breakfast service at the Rio Bhongo restaurant needs to be much improved.
One guest sums it up on Booking.com: “Excellent location, kind staff, great excursion options!”
See photos and book Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort here.
Hotel Bosque del Mar Playa Hermosa - suites right on the beach
Bosque del Mar is directly on Playa Hermosa, around half an hour’s drive from the airport. The hotel has a pool, a hot tub and a restaurant, and you stay in suites in the garden or facing the sea, where there’s also a family suite.
It’s the hotel for you if you want to step from your room straight onto the sand. Breakfast isn’t included as standard. The hotel needs some maintenance in places, and one guest mentions a curtain that wouldn’t close and steps that are crumbling. Think of it as a relaxed beach hotel, not a new luxury resort.
One guest writes about their room on Booking.com: “We had an oceanfront room with balcony which was great.”
See photos and book Hotel Bosque del Mar Playa Hermosa here.
Villa del Sueño - smaller hotel with a pool and live music close to the beach
Villa del Sueño is around 150 metres from Playa Hermosa and about a 35-minute drive from the airport. The hotel has a garden, an outdoor pool and a restaurant with live music, and breakfast is included in the price. The rooms range from standard rooms to two-bedroom suites.
It’s the cheapest of my three suggestions by the bay, and more than a thousand guests have given it a high review score. The hotel is a great fit for couples and families who want a quiet base a short walk from the beach. One guest writes that rooms 124 and 125 get a lot of noise at night, so ask for a different room if you’re a light sleeper.
One guest highlights the staff on Booking.com: “The staff were exceptionally friendly and welcoming.”
See photos and book Villa del Sueño here.
6. Santa Teresa - best area for surfing, yoga and a slow pace 🧘
- 📍 Distance from the centre: One long road along the coast. From the crossroads at Playa Carmen, hotels and cafés stretch several kilometres to the north.
- 🚙 Transport: A hire car with high ground clearance or taxis. Many of the side roads up into the hills are steep gravel tracks.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Allow around 5 hours from San José (SJO), including the ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera, and around 4 hours by road from Liberia (LIR). Both are estimates.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€€. Hostels and small hotels, but also a few very expensive beach hotels.
- 👮 Safety: It’s a surf beach with waves, so ask locally where you can swim. The roads are dark in the evening, so bring a torch.
Santa Teresa is the place for you if you want to surf, do yoga and let the days drift by barefoot. The town is on the southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula and is really just one long road behind a long beach, with cafés, shops and small hotels on both sides.
The journey here is long, and that’s part of what explains the atmosphere. From San José, you drive to Puntarenas and take the ferry across the gulf to Paquera, and from there it’s around an hour’s drive. Check the departures with Naviera Tambor, which operates the route, and buy your ticket in advance when you can. Only some of the spaces are sold online. From Liberia, you can drive the whole way overland, down through the peninsula.
See hotels in Santa Teresa here.
The main roads here are now paved, but many hotels are on steep gravel tracks up in the hills. Ask the hotel what kind of car you need before you book a villa with a view. If you’re staying down by the main road, you can walk to both the beach and restaurants. Follow the main road via Paquera and Cóbano, even if your GPS suggests a shorter route along the west coast. That one can take you onto roads where you have to drive through rivers.
The area has three parts. At the crossroads by Playa Carmen, you’ll find a supermarket, cafés and shops. Further north it gets quieter, and this is where Santa Teresa beach itself lies. To the south is Mal País and, further out still, the Cabo Blanco nature reserve. I’d set aside at least four nights, because otherwise the travelling takes up too much of the trip. If you’re after the same mix of surfing and yoga in Asia, you can compare it with my guide to where to stay in Bali.
Places to Stay in Santa Teresa
Hotel Nantipa - luxury with bungalows and villas right on the beach
Nantipa is directly on the beach in Santa Teresa and is my pick for luxury here. You stay in a suite, a bungalow or a beachfront villa, and there’s a pool, a restaurant and a bar. Breakfast is included and served à la carte.
Nantipa suits a honeymoon or a family that wants comfort in a town where most things are otherwise simple. There’s a children’s menu and play equipment, and one guest praises the staff for looking after the children so well. The price is high, and another guest describes the reception as inexperienced when a double charge had to be refunded.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Beautiful beachfront property with excellent staff.”
See photos and book Hotel Nantipa here.
Hotel Santa Teresa by the Beach - pool and breakfast a few steps from Playa Carmen
Hotel Santa Teresa by the Beach is at the crossroads between Santa Teresa and Mal País, around 50 metres from Playa Carmen. The hotel has a pool, and breakfast is included in the price. There are rooms with a terrace or a balcony, some with sea views, and apartments with one or two bedrooms.
It’s the most practical choice if you’re arriving without a car or only staying a few nights, because you can walk to the supermarket, cafés and the waves at Playa Carmen. There’s no restaurant at the hotel, and one guest mentions that the pool area isn’t very big. With the beach so close, that matters less.
On the location, one guest writes on Booking.com: “Fabulous location near to Carmen Beach, supermarket, cafés and shops.”
See photos and book Hotel Santa Teresa by the Beach here.
Hotel Luz de Luna - bungalows in a tropical garden 120 metres from the beach
Luz de Luna is in the northern part of Santa Teresa, around 120 metres from the beach, and one guest calls it one of the quietest hotels in town near the water. You stay in a bungalow or a studio overlooking the pool, and breakfast is included in the price. The large bungalow sleeps four.
I’d pick it if you want somewhere simple and quiet and would rather spend your money on surfing and food. There’s no air conditioning, the bungalow has a fan, and one guest feels the place is more of a hut than a hotel. If you need cool nights and hotel service, choose one of the other two.
One guest describes their accommodation on Booking.com: “The cabins were clean and comfortable and really nicely decorated.”
See photos and book Hotel Luz de Luna here.
7. Puerto Viejo - best area for a Caribbean atmosphere and bike rides along the coast 🚲
- 📍 Distance from the centre: A small town you can get around on foot. The beaches follow one after another along the coast road to the south-east, and Playa Cocles starts around 1.5 km from town.
- 🚲 Transport: A bike is the obvious choice along the coast road. Use a taxi or a car for the national park in Cahuita and for Manzanillo.
- ✈️ Time from the airport: Allow 4.5 to 5 hours by car or shuttle from San José (SJO). It’s an estimate, and Route 32 through the mountains is regularly closed after landslides.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€. Lower prices than in Manuel Antonio and at Papagayo, and lots of small hotels in green surroundings.
- 👮 Safety: Don’t walk alone on the beach or the dark roads in the evening, lock your bike, and ask about the currents before you swim.
Puerto Viejo is the other side of Costa Rica. Here on the Caribbean coast, the culture is shaped by Afro-Caribbean roots, and the pace is slower than on the Pacific side. The tourist board describes the town as a very colourful beach town with varied cuisine, and I’d choose it if you want a more relaxed and less polished holiday.
The town is small, and most things lie along the coast road to the south-east. First comes Playa Cocles, a long, pale sandy beach with waves for surfers, and further along the coast is the Gandoca-Manzanillo nature reserve. West of town is Playa Negra. I’d hire a bike and ride from beach to beach. You can choose between staying in town, where you can walk to restaurants and bars, and out at Playa Cocles, where the hotels are set in green gardens close to the beach. In town, expect more noise at night.
See hotels in Puerto Viejo here.
The weather doesn’t follow the rest of the country. According to the tourist board’s climate overview, the Caribbean side has no clearly defined dry season. The driest periods are February to March and September to October, while most rain falls from November to January. That makes Puerto Viejo a good choice in September and October, when it’s the rainy season on the Pacific.
The drive from San José crosses the mountains on Route 32 and continues south along the coast. The road is regularly closed after landslides, so check on the morning you travel, and build in an extra day before your flight home. Set aside three to four nights, and spend one of the days at the national park in Cahuita, which is known for its coral reef. In Gandoca-Manzanillo, leatherback turtles lay their eggs on the beach, especially from April to August.
Places to Stay in Puerto Viejo
Namu Garden Hotel & Spa - adults-only hotel with a spa and private pools close to the centre
Namu Garden is for adults only and is in Puerto Viejo, a five-minute walk from the centre and three minutes from Playa Negra. It has a pool, a spa with a steam room and a sauna, a restaurant and a garden, and breakfast is included in the price. Some bungalows and suites have a private pool.
Come here as a couple if you want peace and comfort while still being able to walk out for dinner in the evening. It’s the expensive choice in town, but prices are well below those of the luxury hotels on the Pacific. One guest writes that the walls in their room were very thin, so they could hear the neighbours.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Beautiful garden and lovely peaceful setting.”
See photos and book Namu Garden Hotel & Spa here.
Cariblue Beach and Jungle Resort - bungalows and family rooms at Playa Cocles
Cariblue is at Playa Cocles, around 1.5 kilometres from Puerto Viejo, with the beach about 300 metres away. You stay in a bungalow with a jungle view or in a family room, and there’s a pool, a children’s pool, a restaurant and a spa. Breakfast is included.
Cariblue is ideal for families and for anyone who’d rather stay by the beach than in town. Guests see lots of animals in the garden, and you can cycle into town. According to one guest, the water isn’t drinkable and there are too few places to refill your bottle, so pick up some water to take back with you.
On the wildlife, one guest writes on Booking.com: “We saw so many animals and birds at the hotel (sloths, different kinds of frogs, toucans, green macaws, lizards …)”
See photos and book Cariblue Beach and Jungle Resort here.
Casa BOHÖ - cheap rooms with breakfast within walking distance of everything
Casa BOHÖ is the place if your budget is tight, a few minutes’ walk from the centre of Puerto Viejo. The rooms have their own bathroom, and breakfast is included. There’s an Italian restaurant on site and a shared kitchen if you’d like to cook for yourself.
It’s a cheap, central place to stay, which works well if you’ll be spending your days cycling along the coast. Check the room type if air conditioning matters to you, because one of the categories has a fan. One guest mentions noise from the neighbours at night and too little space to dry towels. Playa Negra is around a quarter of an hour’s walk away.
One guest highlights the location on Booking.com: “Great location, everything in Puerto Viejo is accessible on foot, the view from the bedroom into the trees is amazing.”
See photos and book Casa BOHÖ here.
Where should you avoid staying in Costa Rica?
I wouldn’t spend more than a single night in San José. The capital is a practical stop on arrival and before your flight home, but it isn’t what you travel to Costa Rica for. What’s more, the airport is in the neighbouring city of Alajuela, so a hotel close to Juan Santamaría Airport makes more sense than one in the centre if you’re landing late or flying early.
I wouldn’t plan too many stops either. Three bases in two weeks is plenty when moving on can easily take half a day. And don’t choose a hotel up in the hills in Santa Teresa or far outside Santa Elena unless you have a car that can handle the gravel roads.
If I had to pick one route for a first trip, it’d be La Fortuna, Monteverde and Manuel Antonio. That gives you the volcano and hot springs, cloud forest and finally wildlife and beach, and all three can be reached from San José in half a day’s drive.
If you’d rather have as much beach as possible, Guanacaste is the obvious choice. Fly into Liberia, and choose Tamarindo if you want surfing and town life, or Papagayo and Playa Hermosa if you’re travelling with children or simply want peace and quiet. Santa Teresa is for you if you’ve got plenty of time and like to linger, and Puerto Viejo is the right choice if you want to experience the Caribbean side.
Remember that the two coasts each have their own weather. The Pacific coast has its dry season from December to March, while September and October are among the driest months on the Caribbean side. Plan your route around the season, and book your first and last nights before you arrange the rest.
If you’re still deciding whether Costa Rica is the right destination for this year’s big trip, you can compare it with my guide to where to stay in Thailand, or read about where to stay in the Maldives if it’s mostly about beach and resort. If you’re flying via Florida, you can add a couple of days along the way. In that case, see my guide to where to stay in Miami, or read about where to stay in Orlando if the children want theme parks on the trip.
Travel ressources & websites I use all the time 👇
• Booking.com has the best offers on hotels and unique places to stay
• GetYourGuide is the best place to book tours & activities with free cancellation
• Welcome Pickups is the best & safest place to pre-book airport transfers
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