Where to Stay in Buenos Aires? The 6 Best Areas & Places to Stay

Buenos Aires is often called South America’s most European city, and with its wide boulevards, old cafés and tango, it’s easy to see why. The city is huge and its neighbourhoods are so different from one another that deciding where to stay in Buenos Aires really matters.

So where should you stay in Buenos Aires? For most people the answer is Palermo or Recoleta, where you have restaurants, parks and the metro close by and can walk around safely in the evening. Here are my six picks of areas, honest advice on safety and three hotels in each, from luxury to budget.

Where to Stay in Buenos Aires: The Best Areas

• Palermo Soho - best area for first-time visitors
• Palermo Hollywood - best area for restaurants and nightlife
• Recoleta - best area for peace and quiet and classic elegance
• San Telmo - best area for tango, history and budget stays
• Puerto Madero - best area for luxury and safety
• Belgrano - best area for families and local life

Below I go through the areas one by one with a map, transport, price level and three hotels in each. The Argentine peso has fluctuated wildly for many years and the exchange rate can change dramatically within a few months, so all prices in this guide are in dollars. The hotel prices come from a search for a weekend in March for two people. Metro Line D connects Belgrano and Palermo with Recoleta and the centre, while San Telmo and Puerto Madero lie just south and east of Plaza de Mayo.

1. Palermo Soho - best area for first-time visitors 🛍️

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Plaza de Mayo is around 6 km to the south-east, and the journey takes about 20 minutes by metro.
• 🚇 Transport: Line D has the stations Plaza Italia and Scalabrini Ortiz on the edge of the neighbourhood, and you can pay with a contactless bank card at the barriers or with a SUBE card. You’ll find a map of the entire metro network on the operator Emova’s website.
• ✈️ Time from the airports: Around 45 to 75 minutes by car from Ezeiza and 15 to 20 minutes from Aeroparque.
• 💰 Price level: Mid-range to high. The three places below cost around $110 to $225 (roughly £80 to £170) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: One of the safest and most popular neighbourhoods for tourists, with life on the streets until late at night. Phone theft happens here too, so don’t leave your mobile on the table when you’re sitting outside at a pavement café.

Palermo Soho, also known as Palermo Viejo, is the part of the Palermo district where most tourists end up. The neighbourhood is made up of low, old houses, tree-lined streets and street art on the walls, and on the ground floors you’ll find design shops, wine bars, cafés and restaurants side by side. Its heart is Plaza Serrano, where bars have terraces all the way around the square, and there are often craft stalls on both Plaza Serrano and nearby Plaza Armenia.

Argentinians eat late, and restaurants don’t really fill up until after 9 pm. This is where you’ll find some of the city’s most popular parrillas, as the steakhouses are called, including Don Julio on Calle Guatemala, where there’s often a long queue if you haven’t booked a table.

See hotels in Palermo Soho here.

I’d stay here if it’s your first trip to Buenos Aires and you want food, shops and nightlife right outside your door. The neighbourhood is easy to explore on foot, and you can reach Palermo Hollywood across Avenida Juan B. Justo in a quarter of an hour. The botanical garden by Plaza Italia is on the edge of the neighbourhood, and the large parks of Bosques de Palermo are within walking distance too.

The downside is the distance to the historic part of the city. Plaza de Mayo, San Telmo and Puerto Madero are 6 to 8 km away, so you’ll need the metro or a taxi every time you want to go there. Around Plaza Serrano there can be noise from the bars until late on Friday and Saturday nights, so ask for a room away from the street if you’re a light sleeper.

Hotels in Palermo Soho

Vain Boutique Hotel - boutique hotel with a rooftop pool near Plaza Italia

Vain is on Calle Thames in the eastern part of Palermo Soho, a few minutes’ walk from Plaza Italia and the botanical garden. There’s a small pool and sun terrace on the roof, a breakfast buffet and a 24-hour reception, and it scores 8.7 from over 400 reviews. It was the most expensive of my three suggestions here, and some guests mention that the soundproofing between rooms is poor.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “An excellent hotel all round. Comfortable, clean, great location, and the staff were lovely!”

See photos and book Vain Boutique Hotel here.

Sissi Haz Hotel - small adults-only hotel in the heart of the neighbourhood

Sissi Haz is on Calle Malabia in the middle of Palermo Soho, a short walk from Plaza Serrano and the restaurants. The hotel is adults only, there’s a garden and a breakfast buffet, and it scores 8.9 from over 450 reviews. There’s no pool, and several guests feel the décor is starting to look worn.

From one review: “The staff were incredibly helpful, and because we left too early for breakfast, they put a tray with coffee and biscuits in our room.”

See photos and book Sissi Haz here.

Anywhere Palermo Soho - aparthotel with a rooftop pool at a lower price

Anywhere is on Calle José A. Cabrera in the western part of Palermo Soho, just a couple of streets from Plaza Serrano, and you stay in an apartment with access to a rooftop pool. It was the cheapest of my three suggestions here when I searched, and it scores 8.7 from over 1,000 reviews. There’s no restaurant, and some guests complain about the pillows and a cramped shower.

One guest highlights: “The location, the bed and the staff.”

See photos and book Anywhere Palermo Soho here.

2. Palermo Hollywood - best area for restaurants and nightlife 🍷

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Plaza de Mayo is about 7 km to the south-east, and the journey takes 25 to 30 minutes by metro.
• 🚇 Transport: Line D has Palermo and Ministro Carranza stations on the edge of the neighbourhood. Within the area you walk or take a taxi, as the distances between the restaurants are greater than in Palermo Soho.
• ✈️ Time from the airports: About 10 to 15 minutes by car from Aeroparque and 45 to 75 minutes from Ezeiza.
• 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three places below cost around 80 to 290 dollars (around £60 to £215) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Safe in the busy restaurant streets in the evening, but the side streets by the railway and Avenida Juan B. Justo quickly go quiet after midnight. Take an Uber, Cabify or a radio taxi home from the clubs.

Palermo Hollywood lies on the other side of Avenida Juan B. Justo and the railway, and its name comes from the many TV and radio studios and production companies that moved here in the 1990s. These days, it’s mainly the food that draws people in. The streets around Fitz Roy, Humboldt and Gorriti are packed with restaurants, wine bars and cocktail bars, and at night the younger crowd gathers at the clubs, including Niceto Club on Calle Niceto Vega.

From here it’s about half an hour on foot or a short taxi ride to the large parks of Bosques de Palermo, with the El Rosedal rose garden, the lakes and Jardín Japonés, a Japanese garden with koi ponds and red bridges, where you pay an entrance fee. A little further east is the art museum MALBA, with Latin American art by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, among others. If you want the full Argentine evening with grilled food, wine and music, you can book a seven-course asado dinner with wine and live music from around 79 dollars (around £60).

See hotels in Palermo Hollywood here.

I would stay here if you’re coming for the food and nightlife, or if you’ve been to the city before and want to stay somewhere a bit more local than Palermo Soho. The domestic airport, Aeroparque, is close by, so the area also works well if you’re heading on to Iguazú, Mendoza or Patagonia.

The downside is that Palermo Hollywood is more spread out and less charming during the day than Palermo Soho, and several of the best restaurants are on quiet side streets that become deserted late at night. It’s also even further to the centre and San Telmo, so you’ll end up using the metro or taxis quite a lot.

Hotels in Palermo Hollywood

Palo Santo Hotel - four-star hotel with a garden and rooftop pool

Palo Santo is on Calle Bonpland in the middle of Palermo Hollywood, with the restaurants right on the doorstep. There’s a garden, a restaurant, a gym, a small rooftop pool and a breakfast buffet, and it scores 9.1 from just under 500 reviews. It was the most expensive of my three suggestions here, and some guests find the pool small and not always clean enough.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “The location was perfect for our stay. The room was clean and the bed was comfortable.”

See photos and book Palo Santo here.

Be Hollywood! - mid-range hotel with a rooftop pool and breakfast

Be Hollywood! is on Calle Humboldt in the southern part of the neighbourhood, close to Palermo Soho. There’s a rooftop pool, parking and breakfast included in the price, and it scores 8.8 from over 470 reviews. A few guests have found that the bathroom cleaning wasn’t up to scratch.

From one review: “The breakfast was excellent. Good air conditioning in the rooms and comfortable beds.”

See photos and book Be Hollywood! here.

We The People Palermo Hollywood - budget apartments with a pool and sauna

We The People is on Calle Soler in the northern part of Palermo Hollywood, and you stay in a small apartment with access to a rooftop pool, a sauna and a shared kitchen. It was the cheapest of my three suggestions here when I searched, and it scores 8.1 from just under 1,000 reviews. Several guests find the check-in confusing and the breakfast selection limited.

One review says: “Friendly staff and a quiet, clean room in a good location.”

See photos and book We The People here.

3. Recoleta - best area for peace and classic elegance 🏛️

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Plaza de Mayo is about 3 km to the south-east, and the journey takes 10 to 15 minutes by taxi.
• 🚇 Transport: Line H has the stations Las Heras and Facultad de Derecho, and line D runs beneath Avenida Santa Fe in the southern part of the neighbourhood with the stations Pueyrredón and Agüero.
• ✈️ Time from the airports: Around 15 to 20 minutes by car from Aeroparque and 45 to 70 minutes from Ezeiza.
• 💰 Price level: Low to very high. The three hotels below cost roughly $105 to $1,340 (around £80 to £1,000) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: One of the safest neighbourhoods in the city. Still, watch out for pickpockets around the cemetery and Plaza Francia, and say no thanks if a stranger suddenly offers to help wipe mustard or other mess off your clothes.

Recoleta is the smart address in Buenos Aires, and this is where you’ll understand why the city is called the Paris of South America. Along Avenida Alvear you’ll find French-style mansions, upmarket boutiques and the grand Alvear Palace hotel from 1932, while around Plaza Francia there are large lawns, cafés and a craft market at the weekend. The El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop, set in an old theatre on Avenida Santa Fe, is also well worth a visit.

The main attraction is Cementerio de la Recoleta, the city’s first public cemetery from 1822, where Evita Perón is buried among thousands of marble mausoleums and statues. Tourists need to buy a ticket, and you can find opening hours and ticket sales on the city’s page for the cemetery. Right next door are the Basílica del Pilar church and the Centro Cultural Recoleta cultural centre, and on Avenida del Libertador you’ll find the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which is free to enter. If you’d like to hear the stories behind the graves, you can join a guided tour in English of the cemetery from around $12 (about £9).

See hotels in Recoleta here.

I’d stay here if you want a calm and safe base with classic hotels, or if you’re a couple who’d like an evening stroll among the mansions. Recoleta sits midway between Palermo and the centre, so both Palermo Soho and Plaza de Mayo are a short taxi ride away, and many of the city’s fine restaurants are in the streets around Avenida Alvear.

The downside is the prices, especially at the hotels along Avenida Alvear, and the nightlife is quiet compared with Palermo. The metro isn’t right by the cemetery either, so allow 10 to 15 minutes’ walk to the nearest station, or take a taxi.

Hotels in Recoleta

Alvear Palace Hotel - the city’s classic grand hotel on Avenida Alvear

Alvear Palace is on Avenida Alvear, a few minutes’ walk from the cemetery, and is the city’s most classic luxury hotel. There’s a heated indoor pool, a spa, several restaurants and a breakfast buffet, and it scores 9.2 from over 900 reviews. It’s by far the most expensive hotel in this guide, and some guests mention having waited a long time for the lift.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “From the moment you step into the hotel, you’re greeted by friendly, helpful staff and beautiful decor.”

See photos and book Alvear Palace Hotel here.

Urban Suites Recoleta Boutique Hotel - four-star hotel right by the cemetery

Urban Suites is on Calle Junín, directly opposite the cemetery and the cultural centre. There’s a sauna, a gym and a breakfast buffet, and it scores 8.9 from over 1,000 reviews. There’s no pool, and several guests don’t like that breakfast is served in the basement.

From one review: “The staff were excellent and so helpful throughout our stay.”

See photos and book Urban Suites Recoleta here.

Up Recoleta Hotel - simple, good-value hotel in northern Recoleta

Up Recoleta is on Calle José León Pagano in the northern part of the neighbourhood, less than a kilometre from the cemetery and close to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. It was the cheapest of my three picks here when I searched, and with over 2,200 reviews and a score of 8.2, you know what you’re getting. The hotel doesn’t serve breakfast, and there’s no pool.

One guest highlights: “The room was well equipped and the bathroom was clean. The staff were very helpful.”

See photos and book Up Recoleta here.

4. San Telmo - best area for tango, history and budget stays 💃

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Plaza de Mayo is about 1 km to the north, and you can walk there along Calle Defensa in a quarter of an hour.
• 🚇 Transport: The metro runs along the edge of the neighbourhood, with lines C and E at Independencia, and at Plaza de Mayo you have lines A, D and E. Within San Telmo you can walk everywhere.
• ✈️ Time from the airports: Around 40 to 60 minutes by car from Ezeiza and 25 to 35 minutes from Aeroparque.
• 💰 Price level: Low to mid-range. The three places below cost around 65 to 175 dollars (around £50 to £130) per night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: Full of life during the day and especially on Sundays, but pickpockets work the crowds at the market. In the evening the streets to the south and Parque Lezama go quiet, so take an Uber, Cabify or a radio taxi home.

San Telmo is the city’s oldest neighbourhood, with cobbled streets, houses built around inner courtyards and old cafés where time seems to have stood still. The main street is Calle Defensa, which runs south from Plaza de Mayo through the neighbourhood and is lined with antique dealers, small galleries and restaurants. The covered market hall, Mercado de San Telmo, still has antique stalls, but these days they share space with food stalls and coffee bars.

On Sundays the neighbourhood is at its liveliest. The antiques market on Plaza Dorrego is open every Sunday from 10am to 5pm, and Calle Defensa fills up with stalls, street musicians and tango dancers. Tango was born among the workers of Buenos Aires and Montevideo and is now on UNESCO’s list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. If you want to see it on stage, you can book a tango show at El Viejo Almacén with the option of dinner from around 56 dollars (around £40).

See hotels in San Telmo here.

I would stay here if you’re travelling on a budget, or if you’d rather have history and atmosphere than design boutiques. You can walk to Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada and Puerto Madero, and in the evenings there are milongas where locals dance tango, and you can sit with a glass of wine on Plaza Dorrego.

The downside is that San Telmo is run-down in many places, and the streets become quiet and dark after closing time, especially in the southern part towards Parque Lezama and La Boca. Stick to Defensa and the streets around Plaza Dorrego in the evening, and order a car through an app if you’re going further. At weekends there can also be noise from the bars.

Hotels in San Telmo

San Telmo Suites - large suites with a terrace close to Calle Defensa

San Telmo has no real luxury hotels, so my priciest pick is San Telmo Suites on Calle Chile in the northern part of the neighbourhood. You stay in a spacious suite with access to a terrace and a shared kitchen, and it scores 8.5 from 500 reviews. Breakfast isn’t included, and several guests mention that the bathrooms need updating and that the water pressure can be low.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “Good location, plenty of space and friendly, helpful staff.”

See photos and book San Telmo Suites here.

L’Adresse Hôtel Boutique - four-star boutique hotel with breakfast and a bar

L’Adresse is on Calle Bolívar in the southern part of San Telmo, about five blocks south of Plaza Dorrego. A breakfast buffet is served, there’s a bar, and it scores 8.9 from over 1,000 reviews. Some guests find the rooms small and mention noise from the street.

From one review: “The whole staff were exceptionally friendly and helpful and did everything to make our stay easy and comfortable.”

See photos and book L’Adresse here.

Lezama Suites - simple guesthouse on Calle Defensa with breakfast at the café

Lezama Suites is a small guesthouse on Calle Defensa close to Parque Lezama, and breakfast is served at a café right next door. It was the cheapest of my three suggestions here when I searched, and it scores 8.5 from over 450 reviews. Some guests have experienced damp in the room and a shower in need of maintenance.

One review reads: “The location is fantastic! Breakfast was served at a cosy café a minute from the hotel, and we got something new every day. It was really, really good.”

See photos and book Lezama Suites here.

5. Puerto Madero - best area for luxury and safety ⛵

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Puerto Madero lies just east of Plaza de Mayo, and you can walk to Casa Rosada in 10 to 15 minutes.
• 🚇 Transport: There’s no metro within the neighbourhood itself. Line B terminates at Leandro N. Alem at the northern end, and the stations at Plaza de Mayo are a 10 to 15-minute walk away.
• ✈️ Time from the airports: Around 40 to 60 minutes by car from Ezeiza and 20 to 30 minutes from Aeroparque. Tienda León’s minibuses also run to their own terminal in Puerto Madero.
• 💰 Price level: Mid-range to very high. The three hotels below cost around $90 to $720 (around £65 to £540) a night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: One of the safest neighbourhoods, well lit and with plenty of people along the docks in the evening. Don’t wander around the nature reserve or the deserted streets towards Microcentro after dark.

Puerto Madero is the city’s old port, which has been redeveloped into a modern district of office towers, luxury flats and hotels. The old red-brick warehouses line the four docks, and today they house restaurants, steakhouses and offices, with tables set out by the water. Spanning Dock 3 is the Puente de la Mujer footbridge, designed by the architect Santiago Calatrava, which can swing aside to let ships pass.

East of the docks lies the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur nature reserve, with paths through marshland and scrub down to the Río de la Plata, and it’s a good spot for a run or a walk during the day. Boats to the delta at Tigre also leave from here, and a return boat trip from Puerto Madero to Tigre costs from around $58 (around £45). If you have an extra day, you can take the ferry across the river to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay, whose historic quarter is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

See hotels in Puerto Madero here.

I’d stay here if you want a large, modern hotel with a pool and a neighbourhood where it feels safe to go for an evening stroll. It suits families and business travellers well, and you can walk to Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada and San Telmo in 10 to 20 minutes.

The downside is that Puerto Madero can feel sterile, and the restaurants by the docks are expensive and often aimed at tourists and business people. Locals live and eat elsewhere, so if you want to experience everyday life in Buenos Aires, head to Palermo or San Telmo. In the evening the streets between the docks and Microcentro are deserted, so take a taxi if you’re going that way.

Hotels in Puerto Madero

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires - five-star design hotel in an old warehouse by the docks

Faena is set in an old warehouse by the docks in the eastern part of Puerto Madero and was designed by Philippe Starck. There’s an outdoor pool with a bar, a spa and restaurants, and the hotel puts on its own tango show in the evening. It scores 8.1 from almost 380 reviews, and several guests feel the hotel is showing signs of wear for the price.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “The hotel itself was beautiful. The pool bar was magnificent.”

See photos and book Faena Hotel here.

Hotel Madero Buenos Aires - five-star hotel with an indoor pool and large rooms

Hotel Madero is on Calle Rosario Vera Peñaloza in the southern part of Puerto Madero, close to the nature reserve. There’s a heated indoor pool, a spa and a breakfast buffet, and it scores 8.8 from over 1,100 reviews. Some guests have had noise in street-facing rooms and problems with the air conditioning.

From one review: “The location, clean, and the rooms are big and spacious.”

See photos and book Hotel Madero here.

Believe Madero Hotel - affordable hotel between Puerto Madero and San Telmo

Believe Madero is on Calle Chile on the western edge of Puerto Madero, so you have the docks on one side and San Telmo on the other. A breakfast buffet is served, and with over 7,400 reviews and a score of 7.9 it’s a safe but simple choice. It was the cheapest of my three suggestions here, and several guests feel the rooms need updating and that you can hear the neighbours.

One guest highlights: “The location was ideal. You could walk in every direction and see many of Buenos Aires’ sights.”

See photos and book Believe Madero here.

6. Belgrano - best area for families and local life 🌳

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Plaza de Mayo is about 10 km to the south-east, and the journey takes around half an hour by metro.
• 🚇 Transport: Line D runs beneath Avenida Cabildo with the stations José Hernández, Juramento and Congreso de Tucumán, and from Belgrano C the Mitre train runs to Retiro and towards Tigre.
• ✈️ Time from the airports: About 15 to 20 minutes by car from Aeroparque and 50 to 80 minutes from Ezeiza.
• 💰 Price level: Low to mid-range. The three places below cost around $80 to $185 (around £60 to £140) a night when I searched for a weekend in March.
• 👮 Safety: A quiet and safe residential neighbourhood. Watch out for pickpockets in Barrio Chino at weekends and on busy Avenida Cabildo.

Belgrano is an affluent residential neighbourhood in the north of the city, where you stay among locals rather than other tourists. The main street, Avenida Cabildo, is full of shops, while the quiet side streets are lined with tall trees, villas and apartment blocks. In the middle of the neighbourhood, the Barrancas de Belgrano park sits on a slope with large trees, and in the La Glorieta pavilion you can often see people dancing tango in the evening.

Right by the park and Belgrano C station is Barrio Chino, the city’s small Chinatown, with Asian supermarkets and restaurants, and it gets very busy at weekends. On Plaza Manuel Belgrano you’ll find the round church La Redonda and Museo Larreta with its Spanish art and Andalusian garden, while River Plate’s stadium, El Monumental, is in neighbouring Núñez.

See hotels in Belgrano here.

I would stay here if you’re a family, if you’re staying in the city for a week or more, or if you’ve been before and want to experience everyday life in Buenos Aires. There are playgrounds in the parks, supermarkets and cafés on every street, and in the afternoon Barrancas de Belgrano is full of families with children, dog walkers and people with a flask of mate. Aeroparque is close by if you’re continuing on a domestic flight.

The downside is the distance. It’s around half an hour by metro to Plaza de Mayo and further to San Telmo and Puerto Madero than from Palermo, so you’ll spend more time getting around. The choice of hotels is also smaller than in the other areas, and many people opt for an apartment instead.

Hotels in Belgrano

LM Hotel - four-star hotel with a rooftop pool and views

LM Hotel is on Avenida del Libertador in the eastern part of Belgrano, close to Barrancas de Belgrano. There’s an outdoor rooftop pool with views and breakfast, and it scores 8.2 from over 700 reviews. It was the most expensive of my three picks here, and several guests mention noise and a breakfast with limited choice.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “The staff are very friendly and helpful.”

See photos and book LM Hotel here.

Casa Joseph Libertador - modern hotel with balconies and a rooftop pool

Casa Joseph Libertador is also on Avenida del Libertador, a little further north. There’s a rooftop pool, the rooms are modern with balconies, and with a score of 9.3 from over 700 reviews it’s the highest-rated hotel in Belgrano among my picks. Breakfast isn’t included in the price but can be bought at the café in the lobby, and on the lower floors there can be noise from the busy road.

From one review: “Really spacious rooms, very modern décor, a great shower and a lovely balcony.”

See photos and book Casa Joseph Libertador here.

STUDIO 2 Belgrano - small adults-only studio flat near the park

STUDIO 2 Belgrano is a small adults-only flat on Calle Echeverría near Avenida Cabildo and the metro, about a kilometre from Barrancas de Belgrano and Barrio Chino. It was the cheapest of my three picks here when I searched, and it scores 9.5 from just over 80 reviews. There’s no breakfast and no pool, and some guests would like better kitchen equipment.

One review says: “Good location, a lovely flat and a friendly, helpful host.”

See photos and book STUDIO 2 Belgrano here.

Where not to stay in Buenos Aires?

Many cheap hotels are in Microcentro and Monserrat around Calle Florida and Avenida 9 de Julio. During the day it’s handy having the Obelisk, Teatro Colón and Plaza de Mayo just round the corner, but after office hours and at weekends the streets become deserted. Also avoid hotels near the stations in Constitución and Retiro and in the Once neighbourhood, which are run-down and feel unsafe in the evening.

La Boca, with the colourful houses on Caminito and Boca Juniors’ stadium La Bombonera, is worth seeing but not staying in. The UK Foreign Office advises you to stay within the marked tourist area around Caminito, where the police patrol, and also mentions Palermo, San Telmo and Calle Florida as places where you should take extra care. Go there during the day by taxi or on a city tour with transport that also stops in La Boca, from around $38 (around £28).

If it’s your first trip to Buenos Aires, I would stay in Palermo Soho, or in Recoleta if you’d prefer peace and quiet and classic surroundings. Palermo Hollywood is for you if you’re coming for the food and nightlife, and San Telmo is the choice if you’re travelling on a budget and want tango and history. Puerto Madero suits families and those who want luxury and safety, while Belgrano suits longer stays and those who want to live among the locals.

International flights from Europe land at Ezeiza, just over 30 km from the centre. The journey takes 45 minutes to an hour by car and up to an hour and a half in heavy traffic, and Argentina’s official tourism website runs through the options from the airport: bus 8, the Tienda León minibuses, the official taxis at the desk in the arrivals hall, plus Uber and Cabify. Domestic flights and some flights from neighbouring countries use Aeroparque by the river near Palermo, about 25 minutes from most hotels.

A few practical tips apply across the whole city. Use Uber, Cabify or a radio taxi with a logo on the doors, keep your phone out of sight when walking in the street, and never change money with people on the street. The rules on which exchange rate you get with cards and with cash have changed many times, so check your bank’s terms before you travel, and carry a few pesos for taxis and small purchases.

Many people combine Buenos Aires with Brazil, and if you’re carrying on to Rio, about three hours away by plane, you can read my guide to where to stay in Rio de Janeiro. If you’re flying via Madrid, where several of the direct flights to Buenos Aires depart from, I also have a guide to where to stay in Madrid.

Travel ressources & websites I use all the time 👇

• Booking.com has the best offers on hotels and unique places to stay
• GetYourGuide is the best place to book tours & activities with free cancellation
• Welcome Pickups is the best & safest place to pre-book airport transfers

Psst 👀 Have you subscribed to my Youtube channel and my Instagram where I provide more useful travel tips?