Palermo is the capital of Sicily and a city where Arab domes, Norman mosaics and Baroque palaces stand side by side with noisy food markets. You can eat street food at Ballarò in the morning, see the golden mosaics in the Cappella Palatina in the afternoon and swim at Mondello the next day.
Your choice of area matters a lot here, because the quarters of the Old Town are very different from each other, and some streets stay lively until late at night. Below, you’ll find my recommendations for six areas in Palermo and hotels in several price ranges.
Contents
The Best Areas in Palermo
- Quattro Canti and Via Maqueda - best area for first-time visitors
- Kalsa - best area for art, churches and the seafront promenade
- Vucciria and La Cala - best area for nightlife and harbour life
- Politeama and Via Libertà - best area for shopping and easy transport
- Ballarò and Albergheria - best area for budget travellers and food lovers
- Mondello - best area for the beach and a seaside holiday
Below, I’ll take you through the six areas one by one, with the pros and cons of each, and recommend hotels in different price ranges, so you can find the base in Palermo that suits your trip.
1. Quattro Canti and Via Maqueda - best area for first-time visitors 🏛️
- 📍 Distance from the centre: You’ll be staying in the middle of Palermo’s Old Town, where the two main streets, Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, cross.
- 🚶 Transport: You can walk to most of the sights. Stazione Centrale is around 15 minutes’ walk to the south.
- ✈️ Time from Palermo Airport: Allow around an hour by airport bus or train, followed by a short walk.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€. The three places below cost roughly £75 to £360 a night when I searched for a weekend in May.
- 👮 Safety: The streets are full of people until late in the evening. Watch out for pickpockets in the crowds on Via Maqueda.
Quattro Canti is the crossroads where Palermo’s two oldest main streets meet, and the four curved Baroque façades mark the boundary between the city’s four historic quarters. If you stay here, you’ll have all of classic Palermo within ten minutes’ walk, which is why it’s my first choice for a first trip of three or four days.
A few steps from the crossroads, you’ll find Piazza Pretoria with its large fountain and Piazza Bellini with the churches of La Martorana and San Cataldo. The two churches are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Arab-Norman Palermo, and so is the cathedral, which you’ll reach in a quarter of an hour along Corso Vittorio Emanuele. On the cathedral’s website, you can see when you can go up onto the roof.
If you head the other way up Via Maqueda, you’ll come to the Teatro Massimo, Italy’s largest opera house, where you can also join a guided tour. A large part of Via Maqueda is pedestrianised, and in the evening, street performers, gelaterias and bars fill it with life.
Coming from the airport, you have two public transport options. The Prestia e Comandè airport bus runs roughly every half hour and stops on Via Libertà, at Politeama, on Via Roma and at Stazione Centrale, and a single ticket costs about 6 euros. The regional train from the airport runs to Palermo Centrale via Notarbartolo and takes around an hour to Centrale.
See hotels near Quattro Canti here.
The choice is mostly small B&Bs and apartments in old palazzos, with only a few proper hotels. Many of them are on the third or fourth floor, so check whether there’s a lift if you’ve got heavy luggage.
The downside is the noise. There are people, scooters and music in the streets until late in the evening, and the windows in the old buildings don’t always keep the sound out. If you’re a light sleeper, ask for a room facing the courtyard rather than the street.
Places to Stay near Quattro Canti and Via Maqueda
Eurostars Centrale Palace Hotel - best hotel right by Quattro Canti
Eurostars Centrale Palace is in an 18th-century palazzo on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, less than 100 metres from Quattro Canti. You get a classic hotel with a 24-hour reception, a gym and a big breakfast buffet with Sicilian specialities, and it has more than 2,600 reviews on Booking.com. Some guests mention street noise, and parking options are limited.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The location is perfect, right in the centre and just a few steps from lots of shops, cafés and restaurants.”
See photos and book Eurostars Centrale Palace Hotel here.
Palermo Historia - best B&B with a high guest rating
Palermo Historia is a B&B on Via Bari, a couple of minutes’ walk from Via Maqueda, with a guest rating of 9.5. The rooms are spacious, there’s a lift, and breakfast is served in your room. Several guests mention street noise, and the breakfast selection isn’t as big as at a hotel.
One guest sums it up briefly on Booking.com: “The host and the location were perfect.”
See photos and book Palermo Historia here.
Quattro Canti Apartments - cheapest pick with its own kitchenette
Quattro Canti Apartments is in a small courtyard just behind the crossroads and was one of the two cheapest places in the whole guide when I searched. The apartments have a kitchenette with a coffee machine and hobs, and some have a balcony, so it suits you well if you’d like to shop at the markets yourself. Guests mention that the small bedrooms can get a bit stuffy and that the front door can be tricky to unlock.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Everything about the apartment was so clean and big.”
See photos and book Quattro Canti Apartments here.
2. Kalsa - best area for art, churches and the seafront promenade 🎨
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Kalsa is in the eastern part of the Old Town, 5 to 10 minutes’ walk from Quattro Canti.
- 🚶 Transport: The quarter is best explored on foot. The airport bus stops on Via Roma on the edge of the area.
- ✈️ Time from Palermo Airport: Around 45 minutes by airport bus to Via Roma, followed by a 10 to 15 minute walk.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€. The three places below cost roughly £90 to £410 a night when I searched for a weekend in May.
- 👮 Safety: The main streets are fine in the evening, but a few side streets are dark and run-down. Stick to the well-lit streets when you’re walking home late.
Kalsa is Palermo’s old Arab quarter down by the sea, and the name comes from Arabic. The area was badly hit by bombing during the Second World War and lay neglected for many years, but today it’s one of the most exciting places to stay in the city.
This is where you’ll find the art museum in Palazzo Abatellis, the Renaissance palace Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri and Piazza Marina, with a gigantic fig tree in the Giardino Garibaldi park. In between, there are small churches, galleries and trattorias, and at Porta dei Greci, you come out onto the Foro Italico seafront promenade.
The Foro Italico is a long, green stretch along the water where families go for a stroll in the evening. This is where you’ll feel the sea breeze that you don’t get in the narrow streets around Quattro Canti. On Sundays, the promenade is packed with local families, and it’s one of the best places in the city to watch the sun set behind the mountains.
I’d choose Kalsa if you’d like to stay in the Old Town but are tired of the crowds on Via Maqueda. The big hotels are further apart, so you’ll usually stay in a B&B or an apartment in an old palazzo, and several of them have roof terraces with views over church domes and the harbour.
You should know that the area hasn’t been fully spruced up. Next to newly renovated façades, there are still houses with shuttered windows, and some streets are quiet and poorly lit after dark. It isn’t dangerous, but it’s a different Palermo from the smart pedestrian streets, and I’d take a taxi home if you’re coming back late from the other end of the city.
Places to Stay in Kalsa
Aquasuite - Luxury Experience & Spa - best choice with a spa and pool
Aquasuite is on a small side street in the middle of Kalsa and is built around wellness, with an indoor pool, a spa area and a hot tub in several of the rooms. It’s an obvious choice for a romantic trip, and breakfast has both vegan and gluten-free options. Some guests found it hard to find the first time, and a couple feel the rooms are small for a longer stay.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “One of the best rooms we’ve ever stayed in.”
See photos and book Aquasuite here.
L’ Hôtellerie Easy Suites - best roof terrace with a sea view
L’ Hôtellerie is in a 16th-century building facing the Foro Italico and has a roof terrace with a sea view and a small outdoor plunge pool. It’s a good choice if you want the sea close by without staying outside the city. Breakfast costs extra, and some guests mention problems with the hot water and few staff outside breakfast hours.
One guest describes the place on Booking.com: “The hotel was beautiful. The decor was fantastic.”
See photos and book L’ Hôtellerie Easy Suites here.
Khalisah - good budget pick close to Piazza Marina
Khalisah is a B&B on Via Scopari, a few minutes’ walk from Piazza Marina and the La Cala harbour. Breakfast includes homemade cakes, and there’s a shared kitchen and lounge if you’d like to do a bit of cooking yourself. There’s no lift, and a few guests have had problems with the hot water.
One guest highlights the location on Booking.com: “The location is incredible, and the rooms were lovely.”
See photos and book Khalisah here.
3. Vucciria and La Cala - best area for nightlife and harbour life 🍷
- 📍 Distance from the centre: You’ll be staying in the north-eastern part of the Old Town, 5 to 10 minutes’ walk from Quattro Canti.
- 🚶 Transport: Everything is within walking distance. The airport bus has a stop on Via Roma by Vucciria.
- ✈️ Time from Palermo Airport: Around 45 minutes by airport bus to Via Roma, followed by a few minutes’ walk.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€€. The three places below cost roughly £95 to £755 a night when I searched for a weekend in May.
- 👮 Safety: There are lots of people out in the streets in the evening. Keep an eye on your bag in the crowds by the bars, and choose a room away from the squares if you want an early night.
Vucciria is Palermo’s old market quarter between Via Roma and the harbour. By day, the market is smaller than Ballarò, but when it gets dark, the squares around Piazza Garraffello and Piazza Caracciolo turn into a big open-air food market with grills, beer and music.
A couple of hundred metres further east is La Cala, the old natural harbour, which is a marina today. In the evening, people stroll along the quay, and there are bars and restaurants with views over the boats and Monte Pellegrino. In the morning, the harbour is a peaceful place for a coffee before the city wakes up.
I’d choose the area for a trip with friends or as a couple, when the evenings matter just as much as the sights. You’re close to Quattro Canti, Kalsa and the Foro Italico seafront promenade, and the church of San Domenico with its large square is on the edge of the area. Via Roma, which cuts through the area, has shops and an airport bus stop.
See hotels near Vucciria and La Cala here.
The choice is wide. One of the city’s big classic hotels is here, but most places are small B&Bs and rooms in old buildings, often without a lift and with steep stairs. Read the description carefully if you’re travelling with big suitcases or find stairs difficult.
The big downside is the noise. At weekends, music plays on the squares in Vucciria until late at night, and guests at several of the places mention exactly that. Some of the stalls are also known for changing their prices when the bill arrives, so always ask the price before you order, and check the bill before you pay.
Places to Stay near Vucciria and La Cala
Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa - best classic luxury hotel in the Old Town
Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa is on Via dei Cartari between Vucciria and Kalsa, in a large historic complex with an old cloister. There’s a spa with a sauna and a Turkish bath, and breakfast is served in a roof terrace garden with views over the city. The price is high, and some guests mention patchy service and beds that could be better.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Beautiful hotel in a good location. The staff are excellent.”
See photos and book Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa here.
Sant’Andrea - Luxury Rooms in Vucciria - best rooms in the middle of Vucciria
Sant’Andrea is on Piazza Sant’Andrea, right in the middle of Vucciria, and had a guest rating of 9.7 when I searched. The rooms are modern, and there’s a shared kitchen and lounge. The price you pay for the location is noise from the nightlife, and some guests feel the Wi-Fi could be better.
One guest sums up their stay on Booking.com: “Beautiful, modern and very clean accommodation with super comfortable beds and a perfect location.”
See photos and book Sant’Andrea here.
B&B Cala Peppa - good budget pick a few steps from the harbour
Cala Peppa is on a small side street a couple of minutes’ walk from La Cala and has both double rooms and family rooms with private bathrooms. The hosts get lots of praise, and breakfast is served. The stairs are steep, and some guests write that the air conditioning struggles to keep up on the hottest summer days.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The location was good, the host very accommodating, and the bed and pillows were extremely comfortable.”
See photos and book B&B Cala Peppa here.
4. Politeama and Via Libertà - best area for shopping and easy transport 🛍️
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Around 15 to 20 minutes’ walk from Quattro Canti along Via Maqueda and Via Ruggero Settimo.
- 🚌 Transport: The airport bus and the 806 bus to Mondello stop here, and many of the city’s bus routes run along Via Libertà.
- ✈️ Time from Palermo Airport: Around 40 minutes by airport bus to Politeama.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€€. The three hotels below cost roughly £90 to £785 a night when I searched for a weekend in May.
- 👮 Safety: One of the calmest and best-kept areas of the city, in the evening too.
Politeama is the modern Palermo of the 1800s, built north of the Old Town with wide streets and large squares. Its centrepiece is the Teatro Politeama Garibaldi on Piazza Ruggero Settimo, with a bronze four-horse chariot on top, and from here, Via Libertà runs north, lined with trees, cafés and shops on the ground floors.
Along Via Libertà stand several of the city’s villas and palazzos in the Italian Art Nouveau style known as Liberty, and the Giardino Inglese park is a good place for a break. The streets around Via Ruggero Settimo and Via Principe di Belmonte are the city’s main shopping area, with both chains and Italian brands.
I’d choose Politeama if you’re arriving late or have heavy luggage. The airport bus stops right on the square, and you won’t have to drag suitcases over cobbles. This is also where the bus to Mondello starts, so you’ll have easy access to the beach in summer.
See hotels near Politeama here.
The area is also mostly outside the central limited traffic zone in the Old Town, known as the ZTL, which makes it easier to stay here if you’ve hired a car. Always check your address, though, because the cameras at the entrances to the zone issue fines if you drive in without a pass. AMAT has a page on how to activate a ZTL day pass.
The downside is that you’re not staying in old Palermo. In the evening, most of the trattorias and street food places are down in the Old Town, so allow for a 15-minute walk each way. The traffic on Via Libertà is also heavy at rush hour, and there can be noise from the street.
Places to Stay near Politeama and Via Libertà
Grand Hotel Et Des Palmes - best five-star hotel in Palermo
Grand Hotel Et Des Palmes is on Via Roma, a few minutes’ walk from Politeama, and it’s the only five-star hotel in this guide. The building is in the Liberty style, the rooms are classically furnished, and the hotel has a restaurant, a bar and a gym. It was the most expensive hotel in my search, and some guests mention street noise.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The staff and the attention to detail were of a very high standard and one of the highlights of our whole trip.”
See photos and book Grand Hotel Et Des Palmes here.
Family Affair Luxury Rooms&Suites - best boutique hotel near Via Libertà
Family Affair is on Via XX Settembre close to Via Libertà and has a guest rating of 9.4 from more than 1,500 reviews. The rooms are elegant, some have a balcony, and breakfast includes local specialities. A few rooms are small, and some guests mention noise from the area.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “What a beautiful boutique hotel. Everything was perfect!”
See photos and book Family Affair here.
Hotel Joli - cheapest hotel with character
Hotel Joli is a three-star hotel on Via Michele Amari with original ceiling paintings, antique furniture and a terrace overlooking the square. Breakfast includes Sicilian pastries and fresh fruit, and there’s a 24-hour reception. The rooms and bathrooms are small, and guests mention street noise in the evening.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “A hotel full of character. Very clean, a convenient location close to everything and a really good breakfast.”
See photos and book Hotel Joli here.
5. Ballarò and Albergheria - best area for budget travellers and food lovers 🍋
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Ballarò is in the southern part of the Old Town, around 10 minutes’ walk from Quattro Canti.
- 🚆 Transport: Stazione Centrale is 5 to 10 minutes’ walk away, and from here, trains run to the airport and the rest of Sicily.
- ✈️ Time from Palermo Airport: Around an hour by airport bus or train to Stazione Centrale, followed by a short walk.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€. The three places below cost roughly £75 to £350 a night when I searched for a weekend in May.
- 👮 Safety: The market is busy during the day, but several streets are run-down and dark in the evening. Watch out for pickpockets in the crowds, and take a taxi if you’re coming home late.
Albergheria is the oldest and grittiest of the four historic quarters, and its heart is Ballarò, the city’s biggest and liveliest food market. From early morning, the vendors shout out their prices over piles of lemons, fish and vegetables, and at the stalls, you can taste panelle, arancine and other Sicilian street food for a few euros.
At the western end of the quarter is the Palazzo dei Normanni with the Cappella Palatina, which is covered in golden mosaics. Fondazione Federico II runs the visits and has opening hours and tickets on its website. The church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti with its red domes is also nearby.
I’d choose Albergheria if you’re travelling on a tight budget or would like to stay where the locals do their shopping. Prices are generally lower than around Quattro Canti, and you’re close to the market, the cathedral and the railway station. Get to the market early, because the best stalls are at their busiest in the morning.
See hotels in Albergheria here.
It’s also a practical base if you’re moving on around Sicily by train or bus. From Stazione Centrale and the bus terminal next door, there are connections to the other big towns on the island, and in my guide to where to stay in Sicily, you can see where to stay for the rest of your trip.
Just be prepared for the area to be run-down. Many houses are dilapidated, there’s rubbish in some streets, and when the market closes, it goes quiet and dark. I wouldn’t choose it for a first trip with children, but it gives you a good picture of everyday life in Palermo.
Places to Stay in Ballarò and Albergheria
Palazzo Brunaccini Boutique Hotel - best hotel close to Ballarò
Palazzo Brunaccini is a four-star hotel in an old palazzo on a small square a few minutes’ walk from the Ballarò market. It has a restaurant, a breakfast buffet and a 24-hour reception, and several guests point out that it’s quiet even though everything is close by. The lift doesn’t go to every floor, and some guests feel the beds could be better.
One guest highlights the location on Booking.com: “The central location was excellent!”
See photos and book Palazzo Brunaccini Boutique Hotel here.
Ballarooms B&B Palermo Centro - best B&B with a breakfast buffet
Ballarooms is in a historic building in the middle of the quarter and has a guest rating of 9.6. The breakfast buffet has vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, and the rooms have air conditioning. Some rooms have their bathroom outside the room itself, so read the description before you book.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Good location close to the centre and the railway station.”
See photos and book Ballarooms here.
DIMORA DEL MORO ALLA STAZIONE b&b - cheapest pick close to the railway station
Dimora del Moro is on Via Carlo Pisacane, a few minutes’ walk from Stazione Centrale, and has free on-site parking, which is rare this close to the centre. There’s a shared kitchen, and the rooms have private bathrooms and air conditioning. Guests mention street noise, and a few have had comments about the cleaning.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The apartment was very clean and comfortable and in a good location.”
See photos and book Dimora del Moro here.
6. Mondello - best area for the beach and a seaside holiday 🏖️
- 📍 Distance from the centre: Around 10 km north of Politeama. Allow 30 to 45 minutes by bus, depending on the traffic.
- 🚌 Transport: The 806 bus runs from Piazza Don Sturzo by Politeama along Via Libertà to Mondello. It runs as a summer route, so check the timetable outside the season.
- ✈️ Time from Palermo Airport: Allow around half an hour by taxi or hire car. By public transport, you’ll need to change in the city.
- 💰 Price range: € to €€€. The three places below cost roughly £80 to £235 a night when I searched for a weekend in June.
- 👮 Safety: Mondello is a calm place. Keep an eye on your things on the beach when it’s busy.
Mondello is Palermo’s own seaside resort, set in a bay between Monte Pellegrino and Monte Gallo. The beach is long, with fine, pale sand and shallow, clear water, so it’s good for children, and in the middle of the bay, the old Liberty-style bathing pavilion stands out in the water.
Large parts of the beach are divided into private beach clubs, where you pay for sunloungers and a parasol. There are also free stretches where you can just lay down your towel, but they fill up early on days with good weather.
I’d choose Mondello for a summer holiday where the beach is the main thing and you only want to go into Palermo a couple of times. It also works well for the last part of a tour of Sicily, when you’ve seen enough churches and want to relax. Along the beachfront promenade, there are seafood restaurants, and in the evening, people stroll along the water.
The 806 bus is the easiest public transport link to the city, and a 90-minute ticket costs 1.40 euros, or 1.80 euros from the driver. Prices and the places where you can buy tickets are listed by the bus company AMAT. Mondello can also have traffic restrictions in summer, so check the rules if you’re coming by car.
The downside is that Mondello gets very crowded at weekends in July and August, when half of Palermo heads to the beach, and the traffic on the road out there can grind to a halt. Out of season, it’s the other way round: it’s quiet, and many restaurants and beach clubs are closed, so I wouldn’t stay here on a city break in winter.
Places to Stay in Mondello
VILLA OLIMPIA Mondello - best location right on the beach
Villa Olimpia is on Viale Regina Elena, right on the beach, and has a sun terrace, a garden and family rooms with a sea view and a balcony. Breakfast includes local specialities, and guests praise the hosts for being very attentive. Parking is limited and costs extra.
One guest puts it simply on Booking.com: “A fantastic place right by the beach.”
See photos and book Villa Olimpia here.
Mongibello Palace B&B - best B&B with a roof terrace
Mongibello Palace is around 300 metres from the beach in the northern part of the bay and has a roof terrace, balconies and free parking. Breakfast is served in your room, and guests highlight the cleanliness and the staff. It can be hard to find the first time, and one guest mentions that the mattress cover rustled.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Absolutely everything. Service, cleanliness, food, location and wonderful staff.”
See photos and book Mongibello Palace here.
Busalacchi B&B - good budget pick with free parking
Busalacchi is a B&B on Via Pazienza, around 800 metres from the beach, so allow about ten minutes’ walk to the water. There’s a garden, free private parking and a breakfast buffet with both sweet and savoury dishes. Some guests mention that you can feel the humidity on the hottest summer days.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Lovely host, delicious breakfast and a nice short walk to the beach.”
See photos and book Busalacchi B&B here.
Where should you avoid staying in Palermo?
I wouldn’t stay in the residential districts far to the south and west, because even though the prices can look tempting, you’ll end up spending a lot of time getting around a city where the traffic often grinds to a halt. The same goes for the hotels by the airport, which is about 35 km from the city.
If you want to stay in the Old Town, check the street on the map before you book. Some side streets in Ballarò, Kalsa and around Stazione Centrale are dark and deserted in the evening, and a cheap room can feel less safe when you’re heading back after dinner.
If you’re coming by car, avoid hotels in the middle of the limited traffic zone without parking. The cameras issue fines, and it’s easier to park near Politeama or in Mondello.
If it’s your first time in Palermo and you’ve only got a few days, I’d stay around Quattro Canti and Via Maqueda, where you can walk to almost everything. If you’d like a bit more peace and the sea close by, Kalsa is a good choice, while Vucciria and La Cala suit you if you want to be out in the evenings.
Politeama is the easiest place with a car or heavy luggage, Ballarò and Albergheria give you the most for your money, and Mondello is the place if the beach is the main thing. If you’ve got a week, it’s a good idea to split your stay between the Old Town and Mondello.
Palermo is also a good base for the rest of the island, with towns like Cefalù, Taormina and Siracusa. Ferries also sail between Palermo and Naples, so you can combine your trip with a stay in Naples and the Amalfi Coast. If you’re flying via Rome, you can also add a couple of nights there, and then you can use my guide to where to stay in Rome.
Travel ressources & websites I use all the time 👇
• Booking.com has the best offers on hotels and unique places to stay
• GetYourGuide is the best place to book tours & activities with free cancellation
• Welcome Pickups is the best & safest place to pre-book airport transfers
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