Cape Verde is an archipelago in the Atlantic off the coast of West Africa, and for many British travellers it means winter sun, long sandy beaches, all-inclusive holidays and kitesurfing. But the islands are very different from one another, so knowing where to stay in Cape Verde matters. Sal and Boa Vista are flat and sandy, São Vicente has the music and the town of Mindelo, Santo Antão is all green mountains, and Santiago is home to the capital, Praia.
So where should you stay in Cape Verde? First it comes down to which island you choose, and then whether you want to stay at a resort or in a town. Here are my seven suggestions, with three hotels in each area, from the most expensive to the cheapest.
Contents
Where to Stay in Cape Verde: The Best Areas
- Santa Maria (Sal) - best town for first-time visitors and beach life
- Ponta Preta & Algodoeiro (Sal) - best area for all-inclusive
- Sal Rei (Boa Vista) - best town for budget travellers and water sports
- Praia de Chaves & Lacacão (Boa Vista) - best area for resorts and deserted beaches
- Mindelo (São Vicente) - best town for music, food and culture
- Santo Antão - best island for hiking and green valleys
- Santiago (Praia & Tarrafal) - best island for history and capital city life
Sal and Boa Vista are the islands most visitors head to, which is why they get two sections each. This is where you’ll find the big all-inclusive resorts and the long sandy beaches. São Vicente, Santo Antão and Santiago are something else entirely, with fewer beaches and more town life, nature and culture, and here you’ll usually stay in small hotels and guesthouses. The prices below come from a search for a weekend in February for two people. The local currency is the escudo, and 1 euro is roughly 110 escudos, but on Sal and Boa Vista euros are accepted in many places, and hotels usually quote their prices in euros.
If you want to see more than one island, pick two or three at most. The islands are far apart, and between most of them domestic flights are the easiest way to travel. There are also ferries between the islands, but on the longer routes the crossing takes many hours, so check the timetable with the ferry company before you plan your route around it. The big exception is the short crossing from Mindelo to Porto Novo on Santo Antão, which according to the ferry company CV Interilhas takes under an hour. Good combinations are Sal and Boa Vista, São Vicente and Santo Antão, or Santiago and the volcanic island of Fogo.
Fogo, Maio, São Nicolau and Brava haven’t been given their own sections. Fogo is the volcanic island, where you can climb Pico do Fogo, the highest mountain in the archipelago, and spend the night in a simple guesthouse in the Chã das Caldeiras crater. Maio has quiet beaches and is a ferry ride of under two hours from Santiago, while São Nicolau and Brava are small, peaceful islands for those with plenty of time who don’t need much in the way of services.
1. Santa Maria (Sal) - best town for first-time visitors and beach life 🏖️
- 📍 Distance to the centre: You stay in the town itself or along the beach, and from most hotels it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the Pontão pier, which is the heart of town.
- 🚶 Transport: In Santa Maria you can walk everywhere. For the rest of the island, take a taxi or an aluguer, the shared minibuses, to Espargos in the middle of the island.
- ✈️ Time from Amílcar Cabral Airport: The airport is near Espargos, and the drive to Santa Maria takes around 20 minutes by taxi.
- 💰 Price level: Low to high. The three hotels below cost around 68 to 361 euros (around £55 to £300) per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe for most visitors, but pickpocketing does happen on Sal. Don’t walk alone on deserted beaches in the evening, and leave your valuables at the hotel.
Santa Maria sits on the southern tip of Sal and is the island’s resort town. It’s built around a long, pale sandy beach with turquoise water, and in the middle of the beach the Pontão pier stretches out into the sea. This is where the fishing boats come in with the day’s catch, and it’s one of the best places to watch everyday life. Behind the beach is a small grid of streets with restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and supermarkets, and in the evening there’s often live music in the restaurants.
The beach is on the south coast, sheltered from the prevailing wind, so the water is usually calmer here than elsewhere on the island. North of town lie the old salt pans of Salinas de Santa Maria, and on the east coast is Kite Beach, where the kitesurfers gather when the wind picks up. Sal is a flat desert island, so most people spend a day touring the island to the salt crater at Pedra de Lume, Shark Bay with its lemon sharks and the natural pool at Buracona. A guided full-day tour of Sal costs from around 35 euros (around £30) per person.
See hotels in Santa Maria here.
I’d stay here if it’s your first trip to Cape Verde and you want the beach, restaurants and nightlife within walking distance without being tied to a resort. It’s also the best place on Sal if you want to eat out every evening and try the local cuisine, such as cachupa, the national dish made with maize, beans and fish or meat. The hotels along Avenida dos Hotéis west of the pier give you that resort feel with the town just round the corner.
The downside is that Santa Maria is touristy, and vendors on the beach and in the streets are keen to sell you excursions and souvenirs. The town is growing fast, with lots of construction on the outskirts, so check the map before you book a cheap apartment. Sal also doesn’t have much nature or culture beyond the salt pans, so if you’re not into beaches and water sports, it can quickly feel samey.
Hotels in Santa Maria
Hilton Cabo Verde Sal Resort - five-star resort right on the beach
The Hilton sits right on the beach on Avenida dos Hotéis, just over a kilometre west of the pier, so you can walk into town along the water. There’s an outdoor pool, spa, gym, kids’ club and casino, and it scores 8.4 from over 950 reviews. The price was around 361 euros (around £300) per night, and some guests feel the rooms and bathrooms don’t quite live up to the price.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The staff were super accommodating, and you always felt you had everything you needed.”
See photos and book Hilton Cabo Verde Sal Resort here.
BIA D’Olaf Apartments - air-conditioned apartments in the middle of town
BIA D’Olaf is on Rua Patrice Lumumba in the middle of Santa Maria, a few minutes’ walk from the beach and the pier, and the apartments have air conditioning and free Wi-Fi. It scores 9.2 from over 500 reviews, and the price was around 158 euros (around £130) per night. There’s no pool, and one guest mentions that you could hear every single word from outside.
From one review: “Really good, good value for money and very nicely prepared and presented.”
See photos and book BIA D’Olaf Apartments here.
Pensão Alcinda Bettencourt - simple guesthouse around 50 metres from the beach
Pensão Alcinda Bettencourt is in Zona Tanquinho in the eastern part of town, around 50 metres from the beach. It’s a simple bed and breakfast with no pool, but it scores 8.1 from over 200 reviews, and the price was only around 68 euros (around £55) per night. One guest does complain about rust in the shower and small insects in the room.
One guest highlights: “The accommodation is clean and quiet.”
See photos and book Pensão Alcinda Bettencourt here.
2. Ponta Preta & Algodoeiro (Sal) - best area for all-inclusive 🍹
- 📍 Distance to the centre: The resorts are roughly 1.5 to 3 kilometres west and north-west of Santa Maria.
- 🚕 Getting around: From the hotels closest to town, you can walk along the seafront to Santa Maria. From the northernmost resorts, it’s a few minutes by taxi.
- ✈️ Time from Amílcar Cabral Airport: Allow around 20 to 25 minutes by car or with the resort’s transfer.
- 💰 Price level: High. The three resorts below came to roughly €230 to €319 (around £195 to £265) per night for two on an all-inclusive basis when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe at the resorts. The waves and currents off Ponta Preta can be strong, so only swim where there’s a lifeguard.
West and north-west of Santa Maria lies the resort strip, where many of the package holidaymakers on Sal stay. Large all-inclusive hotels from the likes of Riu and Meliá line the coast from Ponta Sino past Ponta Preta and up to Algodoeiro. The beaches are long and wide with fine, pale sand, and there’s far more space than on the town beach in Santa Maria.
Ponta Preta is especially popular with surfers and kitesurfers for its big waves, and the beach bars here are great spots for watching the sunset. Further north, the bay at Murdeira has a quiet holiday area with apartments, if you’d rather have peace and quiet and cook for yourself than stay at a resort. From the resorts, you can book the same island tours as from Santa Maria, and many also offer diving and snorkelling.
See hotels in Ponta Preta and Algodoeiro here.
I’d stay here if you want everything in one place, with a pool, food, drinks, a kids’ club and the beach right outside the door. It’s the easiest choice for families with children and for anyone who wants to relax for a week without planning anything. If you’re travelling without children, look for one of the adults-only resorts, of which there are several here.
The downside is that you can easily end up seeing very little of Cape Verde. The food at the big resorts gets mixed reviews, and prices are far higher than at a hotel in town. If you stay right up at Algodoeiro, it’s about 3 kilometres to Santa Maria, so you’ll need a taxi to get into town in the evening, and it’s often windier here than on the town beach.
Hotels in Ponta Preta and Algodoeiro
Meliá Llana Beach Resort & Spa - five-star, adults-only all-inclusive
Meliá Llana sits right on the beach at Ponta Preta, about 3 kilometres from Santa Maria, and is adults only. There’s an outdoor pool, a spa with a sauna and steam room, and a gym, and the price was roughly €319 (around £265) per night for two on an all-inclusive basis. It scores 8.1, but some guests feel the room cleaning lacks attention to detail.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Fantastic location, wonderful facilities and food, and exceptional staff.”
See photos and book Meliá Llana here.
Hotel Riu Funana - four-star all-inclusive with a water park and kids’ club
Riu Funana is in the hotel zone west of Santa Maria, about 1.5 kilometres from town. There are pools, a water park, a kids’ club, a spa and evening entertainment, and it scores 8.3 from over 350 reviews. The price was roughly €238 (around £200) per night for two on an all-inclusive basis, but several guests mention that the rooms are worn and in need of updating.
From one review: “Good staff. Good variety of food.”
See photos and book Hotel Riu Funana here.
Meliá Dunas Beach Resort & Spa - large family resort with a water park and tennis courts
Meliá Dunas sits right on the beach at Algodoeiro, about 3 kilometres from Santa Maria, and is a large resort with several pools, a water park, a kids’ club, tennis courts and a spa. It was the cheapest of the three at roughly €230 (around £195) per night for two on an all-inclusive basis. On the other hand, it also has the lowest score, 7.6 from over 900 reviews, and you won’t find a true budget hotel in the resort strip.
One guest highlights: “The staff are fantastic, friendly and extremely helpful.”
See photos and book Meliá Dunas here.
3. Sal Rei (Boa Vista) - best town for budget stays and water sports 🏄
- 📍 Distance to the centre: You stay in town or by the beaches Praia de Estoril and Praia de Cabral, no more than a couple of kilometres from the main square.
- 🚶 Getting around: In Sal Rei you can walk to most places. For the rest of the island, you take a taxi, a hire car or a 4×4 excursion.
- ✈️ Time from Aristides Pereira Airport: The airport is near the village of Rabil, and the drive to Sal Rei takes around 10 to 15 minutes.
- 💰 Price level: Low to mid-range. The three hotels below cost around 73 to 143 euros (roughly £60 to £120) per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Calm, but pickpocketing does happen on Boa Vista. Take a licensed taxi in the evening, and don’t walk alone on deserted beaches.
Sal Rei is the main town on Boa Vista and the only proper town on the island. It’s small and quiet, with a square around the Santa Isabel church, a few streets of restaurants and cafés, and a harbour where the fishing boats are moored. Just south of town is the beach Praia de Estoril, to the north is Praia de Cabral, and out in the bay lies the small island of Ilhéu de Sal Rei with the ruins of an old fort.
The bay off Sal Rei is a well-known spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing, and you’ll find several surf schools at Praia de Estoril. If you know the wind from Fuerteventura, you’ll feel right at home, and you can compare with my guide to where to stay in Fuerteventura. The rest of Boa Vista is desert, dunes and empty beaches. North of town is the shipwreck at Cabo Santa Maria, and inland is the Viana Desert with its tall, pale dunes. The best way to see the island is on a trip with sharks, turtles and sandboarding from around 58 euros (around £50) per person.
I would stay here if you want to explore Boa Vista on your own, keep to a lower budget and have restaurants within walking distance. It’s also the obvious choice if you’re coming for the wind and the water sports, or if you want to split your holiday between a few days at a resort and a few days in town.
The downside is that Sal Rei is a small town with limited nightlife, and there are no real luxury hotels. On the outskirts of town many of the roads are dirt tracks, and it’s often quite windy. The most beautiful beaches on Boa Vista are some way out of town, so you’ll need a taxi, a hire car or an excursion to get there.
Hotels in Sal Rei
Oasis White Hotel - four-star hotel with a pool on the edge of town
Oasis White is around 1 kilometre from the centre of Sal Rei and just under 600 metres from Praia de Estoril. It’s a four-star hotel with an outdoor pool, restaurant, gym and lift, it scores 8.4 from more than 500 reviews, and the price was around 143 euros (around £120) per night. It isn’t a luxury hotel, but it’s the closest you’ll get in town, and some guests find the air conditioning noisy.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The room was large, the bed was very comfortable, and the bathroom had plenty of space.”
See photos and book Oasis White Hotel here.
Aparthotel Por do Sol - apartment hotel with a pool by Praia de Cabral
Por do Sol is by Praia de Cabral, around 1.3 kilometres north of the centre, and has an outdoor pool with a pool bar and breakfast. It scores 8.5 from just over 200 reviews, and the price was around 112 euros (around £95) per night. Some guests do find the layout spread over three floors impractical, though.
From one review: “The deciding factor in choosing the hotel was that breakfast was included in the price.”
See photos and book Aparthotel Por do Sol here.
Casa Cesaria Guest House - cosy guesthouse in the middle of town
Casa Cesaria is on Rua 4 de Julho in the middle of Sal Rei, around 150 metres from Praia de Estoril. It’s a small bed and breakfast with a terrace and free Wi-Fi, it scores an impressive 9.4 from 130 reviews, and the price was around 73 euros (around £60) per night. There’s no pool, and some guests would like more facilities.
One of the guests highlights: “Cosy, newly renovated guesthouse in the centre of Sal Rei.”
See photos and book Casa Cesaria here.
4. Praia de Chaves & Lacacão (Boa Vista) - best area for resorts and deserted beaches 🌴
- 📍 Distance to the centre: The resorts at Praia de Chaves are around 7 to 8 kilometres south of Sal Rei, while Lacacão on the south coast is around 25 kilometres from town.
- 🚕 Transport: There’s no town within walking distance, so you’ll rely on taxis, a hire car or excursions from your resort.
- ✈️ Time from Aristides Pereira Airport: The resorts at Praia de Chaves are close to the airport. Lacacão is around 23 kilometres away.
- 💰 Price level: High. The three resorts below came to around 236 to 344 euros (around £200 to £290) per night for two on an all-inclusive basis when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe at the resorts. The currents off the open beaches can be strong, so stick to the spots where your resort recommends swimming.
South of Sal Rei lies Praia de Chaves, a beach stretching for many kilometres with white sand and dunes, and one of the most beautiful in Cape Verde. This is where Boa Vista’s big resorts are, and Riu Palace Boavista and Riu Karamboa are just a short drive from the airport. Further south still are Praia de Lacacão and Riu Touareg, completely on their own, far from both town and airport.
Boa Vista is known for the sea turtles that come ashore on its beaches to lay their eggs. From summer to autumn you can join guided evening tours to see them, and in some places you can also watch the hatchlings crawling down to the sea. If you have a car or are going on an excursion, also visit Praia de Santa Mónica on the southwest coast, which is long, wide and usually almost empty.
I’d stay here if you want all inclusive, a big beach and as little travelling around as possible. Riu Karamboa is adults only, so it’s quieter by the pool, while Riu Palace Boavista and Riu Touareg also suit families with children.
The downside is that you’re dependent on your resort. There’s no town within walking distance, and if you want to see anything other than the beach, you’ll have to pay for excursions or taxis. If you stay at Lacacão, it’s a long trip to Sal Rei, and the food at the big resorts gets mixed reviews. There are no real budget hotels here, so if price matters, Sal Rei is a better choice.
Hotels at Praia de Chaves and Lacacão
Hotel Riu Palace Boavista - five-star all inclusive at Praia de Chaves
Riu Palace Boavista sits right on the beach at Praia de Chaves, around 7 kilometres from Sal Rei and close to the airport. There are several pools, a water park, a kids’ club, a spa and evening entertainment, it scores 8.6, and the price was around 344 euros (around £290) per night for two on an all-inclusive basis. Several guests do complain about loud music until late in the evening, though.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “It looks wonderful, exactly like the pictures.”
See photos and book Hotel Riu Palace Boavista here.
Hotel Riu Karamboa - five-star all inclusive for adults only
Riu Karamboa is next door to Riu Palace Boavista, around 8 kilometres from Sal Rei, and is adults only. There are pools with water slides, a spa with a sauna and steam room, and a nightclub, it scores 8.3 from over 150 reviews, and the price was around 257 euros (around £215) per night for two on an all-inclusive basis. Many guests feel the food is below average, though.
From one review: “The staff were all fantastic here.”
See photos and book Hotel Riu Karamboa here.
Hotel Riu Touareg - large resort all on its own at Lacacão
Riu Touareg is on Praia de Lacacão on the south coast, around 25 kilometres from Sal Rei and 23 kilometres from the airport. There’s a saltwater pool, tennis courts, a kids’ club and a spa, and it was the cheapest of the three at around 236 euros (around £200) per night for two on an all-inclusive basis. It scores 7.9, and several guests describe the food as mediocre.
One guest highlights: “A lovely resort with a beautiful, long beach.”
See photos and book Hotel Riu Touareg here.
5. Mindelo (São Vicente) - best town for music, food and culture 🎶
- 📍 Distance to the centre: You stay in the centre or by the town beach, Praia da Laginha, and the hotels below are no more than about 1.6 kilometres from the centre.
- ⛴️ Transport: In Mindelo you can walk to most places and take a taxi up the hills. The ferry to Santo Antão leaves from the harbour in town.
- ✈️ Time from Cesária Évora Airport: Allow around 15 to 20 minutes by taxi into town.
- 💰 Price level: Low. The three hotels below cost around 38 to 96 euros (roughly £30 to £80) per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Take the usual precautions in the evening, and get a taxi home from the bars if you’re staying up in the hills.
Mindelo is the cultural capital of Cape Verde and the hometown of the singer Cesária Évora. The town wraps around a large natural harbour beneath Monte Cara mountain, and the centre is full of pastel-coloured colonial houses, a covered market hall and a fish market. In the evenings, musicians play morna and coladeira in the bars and restaurants, and around Shrovetide the town throws a big carnival.
The town beach, Praia da Laginha, is at the northern end of town, and on the other side of the island you’ll find Baía das Gatas with a natural lagoon where the water is calm. The ferry to Santo Antão sails from Mindelo’s harbour, and if you don’t have time to stay overnight on the island, you can go on a day trip to Santo Antão with a local guide from around 85 euros (about £70) per person.
I’d stay here if you’re more into town life, music and good food than all-inclusive. Mindelo is also the natural base if you want to hike on Santo Antão but would rather stay in a town with more restaurants. Hotels and guesthouses are cheap, and you can walk to most places.
The downside is that São Vicente isn’t a beach island in the same way as Sal and Boa Vista. Mindelo has no real luxury hotels, and some of the best places are up in the hills, so there’s a bit of a walk. It can also get very windy, and hotels fill up fast around carnival, so book early if you’re travelling then.
Hotels in Mindelo
Hotel Belvedere Mindelo - four-star hotel with a pool and views over the town
Belvedere sits up on the hill in Chã de Alecrim, about 1.6 kilometres from the centre, and has an outdoor pool with a view. It’s a four-star hotel and the most expensive of my suggestions in Mindelo, with a score of 7.8 from just over 160 reviews, and the price was around 96 euros (about £80) per night. There’s no shuttle bus, and one guest mentions that the walk into town goes through a building site.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Comfortable room. Super friendly staff. Great view over Mindelo.”
See photos and book Hotel Belvedere here.
@Georgette - adults-only guesthouse by Laginha beach
Georgette is in a building by Praia da Laginha, a few steps from the beach and about 1.5 kilometres from the centre, and it’s adults only. There’s a sun terrace and a lift, the score is 8.2 from over 240 reviews, and the price was around 71 euros (about £60) per night. In some rooms the bathroom is outside the room itself, so you have to go through the shared area to reach it.
From one review: “Fantastic flat, and the best part was the incredible view over the beach.”
See photos and book Georgette here.
Basic Hotel - cheap, well-reviewed bed and breakfast
Basic Hotel is in the Alto Morabeza neighbourhood, about 800 metres from the centre. It’s simple, with no restaurant or pool, but the score is 8.4 from over 1,000 reviews, and the price was only around 38 euros (about £30) per night. The soundproofing is poor, though, according to one guest.
One guest highlights: “Everything was really good: comfortable beds, a good breakfast and friendly, helpful, English-speaking staff.”
See photos and book Basic Hotel here.
6. Santo Antão - best island for hiking and green valleys 🥾
- 📍 Distance to the centre: Ponta do Sol and Paul are on the north coast with Ribeira Grande between them, and from the ferry port in Porto Novo the journey takes about an hour by car.
- ⛴️ Transport: You usually reach the island by ferry from Mindelo and then travel by taxi or aluguer over the mountains or along the coast.
- ✈️ Time from Cesária Évora Airport: Fly to São Vicente, take a taxi to the harbour in Mindelo and the ferry to Porto Novo. Allow half a day in total.
- 💰 Price level: Low. The three guesthouses below cost roughly 30 to 59 euros (around £25 to £50) per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: Safe. The biggest risk is the terrain, as the paths are steep and rocks can fall after rain.
Santo Antão is the greenest and most mountainous of the islands, and this is where you should head if you want to hike. The north coast is full of deep valleys with terraces of sugar cane, bananas and coffee, and in the villages they distil grogue, the island’s rum made from sugar cane. Most people stay in the small town of Ponta do Sol right on the coast or in the Paul Valley, the lushest valley on the island.
The classic hike runs from Ponta do Sol along the cliffs to the village of Fontainhas and on to Cruzinha, and another popular route goes from the Cova crater down through the Paul Valley. The paths are cobbled but steep, so wear good shoes, and take a local guide on the longer hikes. Ponta do Sol is a charming little town at the end of the road with a fishing harbour and a few restaurants, while Paul is more rural, with guesthouses dotted up through the valley.
See hotels on Santo Antão here.
I would stay here if you’re coming to hike and don’t need a sandy beach. If you like Madeira, I think you’ll love Santo Antão, and you can compare with my guide to where to stay in Madeira. Give the island at least three nights so you have time for both the coast around Ponta do Sol and the Paul Valley.
The downside is that there are no swimming beaches to speak of, as the sea along the north coast is wild. There are no real luxury hotels on the island, the places to stay are small and simple, and getting around takes time with the ferry, aluguers and mountain roads. It’s a good idea to combine the island with a few nights in Mindelo.
Hotels on Santo Antão
Casa D’Mar - guesthouse with a terrace in Ponta do Sol
Casa D’Mar is in Ponta do Sol and is the most expensive of my suggestions on the island. There’s a terrace, a bar and massages, and you can order packed lunches for your hike. It scores 8.3 from over 180 reviews, the price was about 59 euros (around £50) per night, and one guest felt the place was a little worn.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “Perfect base for hiking on the island.”
See photos and book Casa D’Mar here.
Pousada do Ceu - guesthouse with a garden in the heart of the Paul Valley
Pousada do Ceu is in Chã Margarida in the Paul Valley, which the hike from the Cova crater passes down through. There’s a garden, a terrace and a shared kitchen, and you can order packed lunches. It scores 9.0 from almost 300 reviews, the price was about 57 euros (around £50) per night, and one guest felt the advice on the hikes could have been better.
From a review: “Good location for hiking. The room is clean and the breakfast is good.”
See photos and book Pousada do Ceu here.
Sissi’s B&B - budget bed and breakfast in Ponta do Sol
Sissi’s is on the main road in Ponta do Sol and has a shared kitchen and a terrace. The price was only about 30 euros (around £25) per night, and it scores 8.6 from over 350 reviews. However, one guest mentions that the water pressure in the shower is weak early in the morning.
One of the guests highlights: “Clean, comfortable and good value for money.”
See photos and book Sissi’s B&B here.
7. Santiago (Praia & Tarrafal) - best island for history and capital city life 🏛️
- 📍 Distance to the centre: In Praia, you stay in the historic centre, Plateau, or by the beaches of Prainha and Quebra Canela a couple of kilometres away. Tarrafal is at the northern end of the island.
- 🚗 Transport: In Praia, you get around by taxi. Aluguer, the shared minibuses, run to Tarrafal, but a hire car gives you the most freedom.
- ✈️ Time from Nelson Mandela Airport: The airport is just outside Praia, and the taxi ride into town takes about 15 minutes. To Tarrafal, allow a couple of hours.
- 💰 Price level: Low to mid-range. The three hotels below cost around €55 to €177 (around £45 to £150) per night when I searched for a weekend in February.
- 👮 Safety: The British travel advice singles out Praia in particular when it comes to pickpocketing and robberies. Take a taxi in the evening and leave your valuables at the hotel.
Santiago is the largest island and home to the capital, Praia. The historic centre, Plateau, sits up on a plateau above the sea with squares, churches, colonial houses and a lively market, while the beaches of Prainha and Quebra Canela lie below. Praia is a proper working city with traffic and everyday life, and this is where you get closest to modern Cape Verde.
About 15 kilometres west of Praia lies Cidade Velha, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as the first town Europeans built in the tropics. Inland, there are green mountains, and at the northern end of the island is the fishing town of Tarrafal, with one of Santiago’s best beaches, a small bay with pale sand and palm trees. The journey from Praia takes a couple of hours through the mountains, and it’s easiest in a hire car from Booking.com, so you can stop along the way.
I’d stay in Praia if you want to see the capital, Cidade Velha and the mountains inland, or if you’re flying or taking the ferry onwards to Fogo or Maio. If you want beach and peace, spend a couple of nights in Tarrafal, where the atmosphere is far more relaxed than in the capital.
The downside is that Praia isn’t a holiday town, and you need to keep a closer eye on your belongings here than you would at a resort. The beaches in the city are small, and many travellers only use Praia as a stepping stone. Tarrafal is a long way from the airport, so expect a long transfer if you’re heading straight there.
Hotels on Santiago
Barceló Praia Cape Verde - five-star hotel by Prainha beach
Barceló Praia is on Avenida Rotary International by Prainha beach, south of Plateau. It’s a five-star hotel with an outdoor pool, gym and restaurant, it scores 9.0 from more than 850 reviews, and the price was around €177 (around £150) per night. Some guests find it can be hard to get hold of a taxi.
One guest writes on Booking.com: “The view from the hotel was amazing, the pool was amazing, and the beach was really close by.”
See photos and book Barceló Praia Cape Verde here.
Casa Alegria - highly rated bed and breakfast in Tarrafal
Casa Alegria is on Rua Liceu in Tarrafal, about 500 metres from the beach and close to the town’s restaurants and bars. There’s a terrace, garden and free Wi-Fi, it scores 9.2 from more than 750 reviews, and the price was around €74 (around £60) per night. One guest does mention, though, that dogs barking at night can keep you awake.
From a review: “Friendly staff. Beautiful room. Close to the sea and also to restaurants and bars.”
See photos and book Casa Alegria here.
Aparthotel Praiano - apartments close to Quebra Canela beach
Praiano is in the Palmarejo Baixo neighbourhood, about 50 metres from Quebra Canela beach and around 7 minutes by car from the historic centre. The apartments have air conditioning, it scores 8.3 from more than 500 reviews, and the price was around €55 (around £45) per night. The kitchen is rather sparsely equipped, though, according to one guest.
One guest highlights: “Wonderfully clean apartment in a quiet neighbourhood close to the beach and the historic centre.”
See photos and book Aparthotel Praiano here.
Where not to stay in Cape Verde?
Don’t book a hotel in Espargos on Sal unless you have a very early flight. The town is by the airport in the middle of the island and has no beach. Also be wary of cheap apartments in half-finished developments on the outskirts of Santa Maria and Sal Rei. They can look fine in the photos but are often a long way from the beach along gravel roads.
Don’t choose the most remote resorts such as Lacacão if you want to explore the island on your own, and don’t expect a beach holiday on Santo Antão or São Vicente. Don’t plan a long island-hopping trip by ferry between islands that are far apart either. The crossings can take many hours, and the weather can change your plans, so fly between the larger islands.
Before you travel, you need to register on the official website ease.gov.cv no later than five days before departure and pay an airport fee, either yourself or through your tour operator. This is stated on the Danish Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ page on passports and visas for Cape Verde, which also notes that your passport must be valid for at least six months on entry. According to the Swedish foreign service, the fee is 3,400 escudos, but check the amount when you register. The British travel advice warns of strong currents around the islands and recommends swimming where there’s a lifeguard and using licensed taxis.
Many people fly to Cape Verde via Lisbon, and if you need a night in the city on the way, you can read where to stay in Lisbon and how to get from Lisbon Airport to the city centre. If you want winter sun with a shorter flight, the Canary Islands are the alternative, and here you can see where to stay in Tenerife or in Gran Canaria. If it’s wild Atlantic islands and hiking that appeal, also take a look at the guide to where to stay in the Azores.
If it’s your first trip to Cape Verde and you want beaches and restaurants without all-inclusive, I’d stay in Santa Maria on Sal. If you want all-inclusive, choose Ponta Preta and Algodoeiro on Sal or Praia de Chaves on Boa Vista. Sal Rei is the budget-friendly, local choice with water sports, Mindelo and Santo Antão are for those who want music, food and hiking, and Santiago is for history and capital city life.
Travel ressources & websites I use all the time 👇
• Booking.com has the best offers on hotels and unique places to stay
• GetYourGuide is the best place to book tours & activities with free cancellation
• Welcome Pickups is the best & safest place to pre-book airport transfers
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