Where to Stay in Chania? The 7 Best Areas & Places to Stay

Chania is the most beautiful town on Crete, with a Venetian harbour, an old lighthouse and narrow streets in the Old Town, and a short drive west takes you to some of the island’s most popular beach resorts. The airport is only around 15 kilometres from town, so you’ll be there in no time, which makes working out where to stay in Chania the main decision.

Where should you stay in Chania when you’re torn between town life and the beach? It depends on whether you want to walk home after dinner by the harbour, swim from a town beach or have a pool and a sandy beach right outside the door. Here are my seven suggestions, with three hotels in each area.

Where to Stay in Chania: The Best Areas

• Old Town by the Venetian harbour - best area for first-time visitors
• Splantzia - best area for atmosphere and local restaurants
• Nea Chora - best area for a beach in town
• Koum Kapi and Halepa - best area for peace and quiet and local town life
• Agia Marina - best area for families with children
• Platanias - best area for the beach and nightlife
• Kalyves and Almyrida - best area for peace and quiet and drivers

The Old Town with Splantzia and the neighbourhoods of Nea Chora, Koum Kapi and Halepa are all in town itself, so you can walk to most things from there, while Agia Marina and Platanias are beach resorts around 10 kilometres to the west, and Kalyves and Almyrida lie around 20 kilometres to the east on the other side of Souda Bay. Below I go through the areas one by one, with a map, transport, price level and three hotels in each. The prices come from a search for a weekend in May for two people, and in July and August they are quite a bit higher.

Chania Airport is on the Akrotiri peninsula, north-east of town. The airport bus stops opposite the departures hall and runs to the bus station in Chania, and you buy your ticket from the driver, according to the airport’s own page about the bus. The journey takes around half an hour and costs a couple of euros, and you’ll find the timetables for the buses to the airport and the beach resorts with the bus company KTEL. A taxi to the Old Town costs around 25 to 30 euros (roughly £21 to £25).

1. Old Town by the Venetian Harbour - best area for first-time visitors ⚓

• 📍 Distance to the centre: You’re staying in the Old Town. From the waterfront it’s a five-minute walk to Splantzia and about a quarter of an hour along the water to the beach at Nea Chora.
• 🚶 Transport: The Old Town is mostly pedestrianised, so you walk everywhere. The bus station is about a 10-minute walk south of the harbour, and from there buses run to the beach towns and the airport.
• ✈️ Time from Chania Airport: About 25 minutes by taxi, or around half an hour on the airport bus to the bus station followed by a 10-minute walk.
• 💰 Price level: € to €€€€€. The three hotels below cost roughly €45 to €374 (around £40 to £315) per night when I searched for a weekend in May.
• 👮 Safety: Very safe and busy until late in the evening. Keep an eye on your bag in the crowds on the waterfront, and always check the prices on the menu before you order by the water.

The Old Town is the historic heart of the city inside the Venetian walls, and at its centre is the semicircular harbour. According to the Greek National Tourism Organisation’s page on Chania, the Venetians built it in the 14th century for trade and as protection against pirates. At the end of the breakwater stands the old lighthouse, on the quayside you’ll find the Küçük Hasan Mosque with its pink dome, and at the western end of the harbour is the Firkas Fortress, home to the Maritime Museum of Crete.

Behind the waterfront lie the Topanas and Evraiki quarters, with narrow streets, Venetian houses and small guesthouses. Evraiki was the city’s Jewish quarter, and here you can visit the Etz Hayyim Synagogue. If you’d like a local to tell you about the city’s history and food culture, you can take a guided Old Town street food tour for around €90 (about £75), and in my guide to things to do in Crete you can read about the harbour and the beaches west of the city.

See hotels in the Old Town here.

I’d stay here if it’s your first trip to Chania and you don’t have a car. You can stroll along the harbour early in the morning before the day-trippers arrive, and in the evening you walk back from dinner through the lit-up streets. The best restaurants are often a couple of streets back from the water, where prices are also lower than on the waterfront itself.

The downsides are noise and parking. The bars and restaurants by the harbour stay open until late into the night, so choose a room away from the waterfront if you’re a light sleeper. The Old Town is largely closed to cars, and you can’t drive up to most of the hotels. The free car park on Talos Square just outside the walls to the west is often full in summer, and otherwise you’ll have to pay for a space in one of the car parks around the Old Town. Many hotels are also in old houses with steep stairs and no lift.

Hotels in the Old Town by the harbour

Domus Renier Boutique Hotel - small boutique hotel right on the waterfront

Domus Renier is on Akti Kountourioti in the middle of the waterfront, a few minutes’ walk from Firkas and the breakwater out to the lighthouse. There’s a lift and a traditional breakfast every day, and it scores 9.7 from more than 230 reviews, but it’s also the most expensive of my three picks in the Old Town. One guest missed an outdoor area to relax in, and the nearest public parking is on Talos Square about 200 metres away, where you’re not guaranteed a space.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “Everything was amazing from the moment we stepped into the hotel. Great service, great breakfast and a fantastic room.”

See photos and book Domus Renier Boutique Hotel here.

Casa Leone Hotel - small hotel with a garden and Cretan breakfast in Topanas

Casa Leone is on a side street off Theotokopoulou in Topanas, a couple of minutes’ walk from the harbour. It’s an official three-star hotel with a garden, terrace and traditional Cretan breakfast, and it scores 9.0 from more than 450 reviews. There’s no lift, and one guest writes that parking is a bit of a challenge if you arrive by car, even though there’s a public car park about 80 metres away.

From one review: “So sweet, beautifully decorated, comfortable and clean.”

See photos and book Casa Leone here.

Smaragdi - affordable apartments a stone’s throw from the harbour

Smaragdi is on Theotokopoulou in Topanas, just a couple of minutes’ walk from the Venetian Harbour. These are simple apartments with no breakfast and no lift, and they score 8.1 from more than 550 reviews. It was the cheapest of my three picks in the Old Town when I searched, but one guest found the hot water ran out after a single shower.

One guest says: “Fantastic location, easy to find and perfect communication with the host.”

See photos and book Smaragdi here.

2. Splantzia - best area for atmosphere and local restaurants 🍷

• 📍 Distance to the centre: You’re staying in the eastern part of the Old Town. From Splantzia Square it’s about a five-minute walk to the harbour and 10 to 15 minutes to Koum Kapi.
• 🚶 Getting around: You can walk everywhere. The bus station is about 10 minutes away on foot, but the streets are narrow and cobbled, so take a taxi if you have a heavy suitcase.
• ✈️ Time from Chania Airport: About 25 minutes by taxi, or about half an hour on the airport bus followed by a 10-minute walk from the bus station.
• 💰 Price level: €€ to €€€. The three places below cost around 62 to 187 euros (roughly £50 to £155) per night when I searched for a weekend in May.
• 👮 Safety: Safe. In the evening the bars on the square are packed with young people, and the little streets around it are quiet and dark late at night.

Splantzia is the eastern part of the Old Town, and under the Ottomans it was the city’s Turkish quarter. At its heart is Splantzia Square, also known as Plateia 1821, with a huge old plane tree and the church of Agios Nikolaos. The church was converted into a mosque under the Ottomans and later back into a church, which is why it has both a bell tower and a minaret today.

In the evening, restaurants and bars fill the square with tables, and the little streets around it are lined with workshops, cafés and tavernas where more locals eat than down by the harbour. From here it’s just a few minutes up to Kastelli, the hill above the harbour where the city has stood since ancient times, and down to the eastern side of the harbour with the old Venetian shipyards.

See hotels in Splantzia here.

I’d stay here if you want the Old Town right on your doorstep but would rather sleep a little away from the most touristy restaurants on the waterfront. You’re still only five minutes from the water, and in the evening you have some of the city’s cosiest places to eat just round the corner. It’s also a good area for couples and friends who want a bit of nightlife, and you’re a short walk from the eastern city walls and the seafront promenade in Koum Kapi.

The downside is the noise around the square itself, where the bars stay open late, and guests at one of the hotels below mention exactly that: noise from bars and restaurants at night. So choose a room on a side street if you’re a light sleeper. As in the rest of the Old Town, there are few lifts and no parking at the door, and according to one of the hotels, a nearby pay car park costs around 20 euros (about £17) for 24 hours.

Hotels in Splantzia

il Campanile Luxury Living - luxury apartments between the harbour and Splantzia

il Campanile is on Betolo street between the eastern side of the harbour and Splantzia, about a five-minute walk from the square. These are luxury apartments with a score of 9.7 from over 250 reviews, and breakfast can be ordered. There’s no parking, and in some of the apartments the bedroom is on a mezzanine up a flight of stairs, which won’t suit everyone.

One guest writes: “A fantastic stay in the perfect location. Everything about the place was well thought out and wonderful.”

See photos and book il Campanile here.

Centro Storico - modern apartments on Splantzia’s main street

Centro Storico is on Chatzimichali Daliani, a couple of minutes’ walk from Splantzia Square. It’s an aparthotel with soundproofed rooms, a sun terrace and a continental breakfast, and it scores 9.1 from over 700 reviews. There’s no lift, some guests have heard noise from nearby bars and restaurants at night, and others found the black-and-white décor a little cold.

From one review: “Fantastic location and great facilities. The staff helped arrange transport and were quick to reply to messages.”

See photos and book Centro Storico here.

Cretan Berry Sarpaki - small guesthouse on a quiet side street

Cretan Berry Sarpaki is on a side street off Sarpaki in Splantzia, a couple of minutes from the square. It’s a small guesthouse with a score of 9.1 from just under 400 reviews, and it was the cheapest of my three suggestions in the area when I searched. There’s no lift and no free parking, but public car parks are a two to three-minute walk away, and one guest felt the room was small.

One guest says: “Lovely clean room in a great location, with a host who replied quickly and was very helpful.”

See photos and book Cretan Berry Sarpaki here.

3. Nea Chora - best area for a beach in town 🏖️

• 📍 Distance to the centre: You’re staying just west of the Old Town. From the beach, it’s about a quarter of an hour’s walk along the water to the Venetian harbour.
• 🚶 Transport: You walk into town along the coast. The bus station is about 15 minutes away on foot, and several hotels say there’s free parking on the streets around them.
• ✈️ Time from Chania Airport: About 25 to 30 minutes by taxi, or take the airport bus to the bus station and then walk for about 15 minutes.
• 💰 Price level: € to €€€€€. The three hotels below cost about 67 to 402 euros (around £55 to £335) per night when I searched for a weekend in May.
• 👮 Safety: Safe and quiet. It’s an ordinary residential area with lots of families, and the seafront promenade is full of people in the evening.

Nea Chora means “new town”, and the neighbourhood grew up outside the walls west of the Old Town. Today it’s Chania’s very own beach suburb, with a shallow sandy beach, Nea Chora Beach, and a small fishing harbour lined with fish tavernas. From the Old Town, you walk out here along the coast whenever you want a swim, a coffee or some fish.

The beach sits in a small bay with rocks out in the water, so the waves are often smaller than on the open beaches further west. You can hire sunloungers and parasols on the beach, and there are beach bars and showers. Behind the beach you’ll find bakeries, small supermarkets and cafés, and in the evening the area is quiet, while the Old Town, a quarter of an hour’s walk away, is still buzzing.

See hotels in Nea Chora here.

I’d stay here if you’re a family wanting both the beach and the town without hiring a car. You can swim in the morning, walk to the harbour in the afternoon and be back on the beach for sunset, and prices are generally lower than by the harbour. It’s also a good choice if you have a car, because it’s far easier to find a space on the street than near the Old Town. And if you fancy fish, the tavernas by the little harbour are one of the best places in town for a long lunch.

The downside is that Nea Chora doesn’t have the Old Town’s atmosphere, and the houses in the streets behind the beach are modern and fairly ordinary. The beach gets packed in summer, and the front-row sunloungers cost money. If you stay on the beach road, you may also hear the traffic, as a guest at one of the hotels below mentions.

Hotels in Nea Chora

Chania Flair Boutique Hotel - adults-only five-star hotel with spa and pool

Chania Flair is on the corner of Petrof and Palaiologou in Nea Chora, about five minutes’ walk from the beach and a quarter of an hour from the Old Town. It’s an official five-star, adults-only hotel in Hilton’s Tapestry Collection with a spa, pool, restaurant and à la carte breakfast, and it scores 9.1. It’s the most expensive hotel in this guide, and there’s no parking on site, so the staff park your car for you on the street.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “Everything. The location, the hospitality, the food and a fantastic breakfast.”

See photos and book Chania Flair here.

Posidonio Hotel - simple hotel with breakfast buffet right on the beach

Posidonio is on Monis Gonias, right on the beach in Nea Chora. It’s an official two-star hotel with a lift and breakfast buffet included, and it scores 8.6 from over 700 reviews. There’s no pool and no parking on site, but there’s free parking on the surrounding streets, and one guest who’s a light sleeper could hear everything from the street.

From a review: “Nice hotel with everything you need, right on the beach, lovely staff and a good breakfast.”

See photos and book Posidonio Hotel here.

Falassarna Hotel - budget-friendly hotel with free parking near the beach

Falassarna Hotel is named after the beach on the west coast, but it’s on Moni Gonias in Nea Chora, a couple of minutes from Nea Chora Beach. It’s an official two-star hotel with a garden, bar and free private parking for 14 cars, and with a score of 8.8 from over 1,000 reviews, it was the cheapest of my three picks in the area when I searched. Breakfast isn’t served, and one guest felt the bedrooms looked dated, even though the bathrooms had been renovated.

One guest says: “A very nice and clean hotel with very lovely people.”

See photos and book Falassarna Hotel here.

4. Koum Kapi and Halepa - the best area for peace and quiet and local city life 🌅

• 📍 Distance to the centre: Koum Kapi lies just east of the city walls, around a 15-minute walk from the harbour, and Halepa carries on up the hill to the east, where you have a 20 to 30-minute walk into the harbour.
• 🚶 Getting around: You can walk into the Old Town along the water, or take a taxi from Halepa. Several hotels have parking, and driving is easier here than around the Old Town.
• ✈️ Time from Chania Airport: Around 20 to 25 minutes by taxi.
• 💰 Price level: €€ to €€€. The three hotels below cost around €88 to €162 (roughly £75 to £135) per night when I searched for a weekend in May.
• 👮 Safety: Safe. Halepa is a quiet residential neighbourhood, and the seafront promenade in Koum Kapi is full of locals in the evening.

Koum Kapi is the seafront promenade just outside the eastern city walls, where locals sit in the cafés along the water looking out over the bay, and there is also a small town beach here. From here the road continues up to Halepa, the smart 19th-century district of grand mansions where consuls and wealthy families once lived. This is where you will find the house where Crete’s great statesman and later Greek prime minister Eleftherios Venizelos lived, today the Venizelos Residence museum.

Halepa is also home to the Archaeological Museum of Chania, which has moved into a new building in the neighbourhood. Otherwise it is a quiet area of villas, bakeries and small churches, and in the evening you can eat at the tavernas in Koum Kapi or stroll along the water into the Old Town in about 15 minutes. That walk along the waterfront is, by the way, one of the loveliest in the city, especially early in the morning.

See hotels in Koum Kapi and Halepa here.

I would stay here if you have been to Chania before, or if you want to live the way the city’s own residents do, with morning coffee by the water and a short walk to the Old Town. It is also a good choice if you have a car, as several hotels have parking, and you can easily get out onto the roads towards the Akrotiri peninsula, the airport and Kalyves.

The downside is that Halepa is large and stretches up the hill, so check the address before you book. From the eastern part of the neighbourhood it is a long walk home in the evening, and there aren’t many restaurants among the villas. The small beach in Koum Kapi isn’t great for a full beach day either, so if you want to swim a lot, Nea Chora or the beach resorts to the west are a better choice.

Hotels in Koum Kapi and Halepa

Hyperion City Hotel & Spa - four-star hotel with a pool and spa close to the water

Hyperion is on Eleftheriou Venizelou in Koum Kapi, a couple of minutes from the seafront promenade and around a 15-minute walk from the Old Town. It is an official four-star hotel with an outdoor pool that is open all year round, a spa with a hammam and breakfast included, and with a score of 9.1 from over 1,900 reviews it is a safe choice. Parking costs €10 (around £8) a day, but one guest warns that the garage is so small you need to manoeuvre carefully.

One guest writes: “Excellent hotel, large room, excellent breakfast with lots of choice and an excellent welcome.”

See photos and book Hyperion City Hotel here.

Irida Hotel - hotel with free parking where Halepa begins

Irida sits on the corner of Eleftheriou Venizelou and 8is Dekemvriou, where Koum Kapi turns into Halepa, around a 20-minute walk from the harbour. It is an official three-star hotel with a breakfast buffet and free private parking, although a space isn’t guaranteed. It scores 8.9 from over 1,300 reviews, there is no pool, and one guest felt the breakfast selection was limited.

From one review: “Fantastic view from the balcony. Good breakfast. Helpful and friendly staff.”

See photos and book Irida Hotel here.

Ciel Collection Suites - adults-only apartments close to the water in Koum Kapi

Ciel Collection Suites is on Evans Street in Koum Kapi, around a 10 to 15-minute walk from the Venetian Harbour. These are adults-only apartments with a score of 9.5 from over 500 reviews, and it was the cheapest of my three suggestions in the area when I searched. Breakfast costs extra, there is no pool, and one guest missed blackout curtains and somewhere to hang wet towels and swimwear.

One guest says: “A fantastic holiday in the best apartment you could wish for.”

See photos and book Ciel Collection Suites here.

5. Agia Marina - best area for families with children 🐚

• 📍 Distance to the centre: You’ll be staying about 9 kilometres west of Chania. It takes 15 to 20 minutes by car to the Old Town and a little longer by bus.
• 🚌 Transport: Buses from Chania bus station run west along the coast and stop on the main road in Agia Marina, and in season they run many times a day.
• ✈️ Time from Chania Airport: About 35 to 40 minutes by taxi or car. By bus, you’ll need to change at Chania bus station.
• 💰 Price level: €€ to €€€. The three hotels below cost around €70 to €190 (roughly £60 to £160) per night when I searched for a weekend in May.
• 👮 Safety: Safe and family-friendly. Don’t leave valuables on the beach while you’re swimming.

Agia Marina is one of the classic beach resorts west of Chania, and it has been popular with Scandinavian families for many years. The town stretches along a long beach that continues west to Platanias, and out in the bay lies the small island of Agioi Theodoroi, which you can see from almost the entire beach. The island is a protected area for the Cretan wild goat, the kri-kri.

Along the main road you’ll find supermarkets, tavernas, souvenir shops and car hire, and on the beach there are sunloungers, beach bars and water sports. In most places the water gets deeper gradually, but when it’s windy the waves can be big, so keep an eye on the lifeguards’ flag. If you don’t have a car, you can take a day trip to Balos and Gramvousa with pick-up and boat ticket from around €60 (about £50).

See hotels in Agia Marina here.

I’d stay here if you’re travelling with children and want a sandy beach, a pool and restaurants within walking distance. Everything is easy, the kids can swim from morning to evening, several of the hotels have a children’s pool and a playground, and an afternoon in Chania is easy by bus. I’ve chosen three hotels here that complement the suggestions in my overview of the whole of Crete, so you have more to choose from.

The downside is that Agia Marina is purely a holiday resort, where the restaurants and shops are much alike and most things close outside the season. The main road is also the old coast road heading west, so there’s traffic, and hotels on the inland side of the road are further from the beach. So check which side of the road your hotel is on before you book.

Hotels in Agia Marina

Thalassa Beach Resort & Spa - adults-only four-star beach hotel

Thalassa Beach Resort sits right on the beach at the western end of Agia Marina, where the town merges into Platanias. It’s an official four-star, adults-only hotel with a spa, pool, restaurant, breakfast included and free parking, and it scores 9.1. So it’s a hotel for couples rather than families, and one guest felt the room was small.

One guest writes: “What really stood out was the lovely, friendly staff.”

See photos and book Thalassa Beach Resort here.

Atrion Resort Hotel - family hotel with children’s pool and playground

Atrion is on the main road in Agia Marina, about a five-minute walk from the beach. It’s an official four-star hotel with a pool, children’s pool, playground, evening entertainment, breakfast included and free parking, and it scores 8.6. One guest felt the bathroom needed renovating.

One guest highlights: “The breakfast was really good.”

See photos and book Atrion Resort here.

Abella - affordable apartments with pool and free parking

Abella is in Agia Marina, about 400 metres from the beach. It’s an aparthotel with a pool, children’s pool and free parking, and with a score of 9.3 from over 500 reviews, it was the cheapest of my three picks in Agia Marina when I searched. Breakfast isn’t included, and one guest felt the balcony was dirty.

From a review: “What a lovely hotel, run by the most caring and attentive staff.”

See photos and book Abella here.

6. Platanias - best area for beaches and nightlife 🍹

• 📍 Distance to the centre: You’re staying about 11 kilometres west of Chania. The Old Town is around 20 minutes away by car and half an hour by bus.
• 🚌 Transport: The westbound buses from Chania bus station stop on the main street, and from here it’s only a short drive onto the main road towards Kissamos.
• ✈️ Time from Chania Airport: About 40 minutes by taxi or car.
• 💰 Price level: € to €€€€. The three hotels below cost from around 65 to 274 euros (roughly £55 to £230) per night when I searched for a weekend in May.
• 👮 Safety: Safe. In the evening the bars along the main street are in full swing, so keep an eye on your bag in the crowds.

Platanias is the largest beach resort west of Chania, and it has grown together with Agia Marina, so the beach and the main street run seamlessly from one town into the other. The old village sits up on the hill above the main street, with views over the coast and the island of Agioi Theodoroi. Up there you’ll find several restaurants where you can eat while the sun sets over the sea.

Down by the water, Platanias has the widest choice of bars and cocktail spots on this stretch of coast, and in summer things stay lively until late into the night. From Platanias it’s about a 40-minute drive to Kissamos, where the boats to Balos and Gramvousa depart, and a boat trip from Kissamos to Balos and Gramvousa costs from around 40 euros (about £35).

See hotels in Platanias here.

I’d stay here if you want the beach by day and nightlife in the evening, or if you plan to hire a car and take day trips to the west. The easiest place to pick up a car is the airport, and you can compare prices on car hire at Booking.com. The last few kilometres of the road to Balos are gravel, and many rental agreements don’t cover damage on gravel roads, so read the terms before you drive out there. For Elafonisi, allow one and a half to two hours each way over the mountains, while Falassarna is just over an hour from Chania.

The downside is the noise. If you stay in the middle of Platanias, you can hear the music from the bars until late in the evening, and the main street is also the main road, with heavy traffic. If you’re after peace and quiet, choose a hotel on the edge of town or right down by the beach.

Hotels in Platanias

Minoa Palace Resort - five-star resort with several pools right on the beach

Minoa Palace is on the main street in the western part of Platanias with direct access to the beach. It’s an official five-star resort with several pools, including an indoor one, a spa, restaurants, breakfast included and free parking, and it scores 9.1. On the other hand, one guest writes that the room was very worn and in need of a thorough renovation, so read the room type descriptions carefully.

One guest writes on Booking.com: “The best breakfast I’ve ever had at a hotel!”

See photos and book Minoa Palace Resort here.

Kallitsakis Beach - apartments with an infinity pool by the beach

Kallitsakis Beach is on the old main road in Platanias, a minute’s walk from the beach. It’s an aparthotel with an infinity pool and private parking, and it scores 9.4 from over 400 reviews. Breakfast is available at a nearby café, and one guest found the sofa bed uncomfortable to sleep on, with only a sheet and no duvet.

From a review: “Lovely quiet pool with plenty of sunloungers. The room was clean and had everything you need. Good location and friendly staff.”

See photos and book Kallitsakis Beach here.

Villa Giorgos - small hotel with a pool right on the beach

Villa Giorgos is at the western end of Platanias, right on the beach. It’s a small aparthotel with a pool and free parking, and with a score of 8.8 it was the cheapest of my three suggestions in Platanias when I searched. Breakfast isn’t included, and one guest was disappointed at having to pay extra for the sunloungers on the beach.

One guest says: “A perfect stay at this lovely little hotel right on the beach, with a really good-sized pool.”

See photos and book Villa Giorgos here.

7. Kalyves and Almyrida - best area for peace and quiet and drivers 🚗

• 📍 Distance to the centre: You’re staying around 20 kilometres east of Chania. It takes about 25 minutes by car to reach the Old Town.
• 🚗 Transport: Ideally you’ll want a car. Buses run from the bus station in Chania, but the area is spread out, and you’ll get the most out of it with your own transport.
• ✈️ Time from Chania Airport: About half an hour by car.
• 💰 Price level: € to €€€. The three places below cost roughly 43 to 207 euros (around £35 to £175) per night when I searched for a weekend in May.
• 👮 Safety: Very safe and quiet. Don’t leave valuables on show in the car at the beaches.

Kalyves and Almyrida are two small coastal towns in the Apokoronas area on the other side of Souda Bay, around 20 kilometres east of Chania. Kalyves has a long sandy beach with tavernas and supermarkets along the water, while Almyrida is a smaller fishing village a few kilometres further east, with a beach and tavernas right down by the sea.

The area is popular with people renting holiday homes and villas with pools in the hills behind the coast, and it’s far quieter than the beach resorts west of Chania. On the hill above Souda Bay between Chania and Kalyves lies the ancient city of Aptera, with a small theatre and large Roman cisterns, and the mountain villages of Apokoronas are a short drive inland.

See hotels in Kalyves and Almyrida here.

I’d stay here if you have a car and want peace, space and a local feel, but still want to be able to drive into Chania for dinner. From here it’s also easy to carry on towards Rethymnon, and the airport is only about half an hour away. If you’re a larger group, you’ll find plenty of villas with private pools in the hills behind Kalyves and Almyrida, and snorkelling boat trips leave from Almyrida. You can compare hire car prices at Booking.com’s car rental, and pick it up at the airport so you avoid a long taxi ride out here.

The downside is the distance to the west. Balos, Elafonisi and Falassarna are one and a half to two and a half hours away by car, so if you’re planning lots of day trips there, Platanias is better placed. In the evening there are few restaurants and no nightlife, many places close outside the season, and without a car you won’t get very far from here.

Hotels in Kalyves and Almyrida

Aloe Boutique Hotel & Suites - adults-only five-star hotel by the beach in Almyrida

Aloe sits on the beach road in Almyrida, a few steps from the sand. It’s an officially five-star, adults-only hotel with a pool, restaurant, breakfast included and free parking, and it scores 9.2 from 360 reviews. One guest was annoyed that the cleaning staff left their equipment outside the room for the whole stay.

One guest writes: “Everything. A perfect stay and a very convenient location.”

See photos and book Aloe Boutique Hotel here.

Akti Galinis - simple apartments right on the beach in Kalyves

Akti Galinis is right on the beach in Kalyves, just metres from the water. It’s an aparthotel with free parking and a score of 8.6 from just under 300 reviews, but there’s no pool or breakfast. One guest had bedding with holes in it and a blocked toilet.

From a review: “Very short walk to the beach, friendly owners and a nice, tidy and clean room.”

See photos and book Akti Galinis here.

Nikos Studio - budget-friendly apartment with kitchen and garden

Nikos Studio is a little outside the centre of Kalyves, about a 15-minute walk from the beach at Kera. It’s an apartment with a fully equipped kitchen, garden, barbecue and free parking, and with a score of 9.3 it was the cheapest place in the whole guide when I searched. There’s no pool, and one guest felt the air inside was a bit damp.

One guest says: “Very cosy and very clean. Fully equipped kitchen.”

See photos and book Nikos Studio here.

Where not to stay in Chania?

Watch out for cheap apartments listed as Chania on booking sites that are actually in the modern residential districts south of the Old Town or out along the road towards Akrotiri, where you’ll face a long, dull walk to the harbour. Souda, east of the town, is first and foremost a ferry port and naval base, not a place for a holiday. If you’re arriving by car, don’t stay in the middle of the Old Town without arranging parking, as you can’t drive up to the door. If you’re a light sleeper, avoid rooms facing the harbourfront and Splantzia Square. And if it’s a beach holiday with children, stay in Agia Marina or Nea Chora rather than the Old Town. Malia, which I warn against in my Crete guide, is by the way more than two hours away on the other side of Heraklion.

If it’s your first trip to Chania, I’d stay in the Old Town by the Venetian Harbour, and if you want more of a local feel with restaurants round the corner, choose Splantzia. Travelling with children and want the beach in town? Nea Chora is the best choice, and if you’ve been before or are coming by car, Koum Kapi and Halepa are a good compromise. For the classic beach holiday, stay in Agia Marina with children or in Platanias if you want evening life, and if you want peace and quiet and have a car, Kalyves and Almyrida are the right choice.

Give Chania at least three nights so you have time for the Old Town, a beach day and a trip to Balos or Elafonisi. You can hike the Samaria Gorge on a day trip from all the areas in this guide, but it’s only open for part of the year, so check opening times and tickets with the national park administration. If you want to see the rest of the island, I’ve covered Rethymnon, Heraklion and the east coast in my guide to where to stay in Crete. Many people combine Crete with one of the Cyclades, and here you can read about where to stay in Santorini. If you’re spending a couple of nights in the capital on the way, see my guide to where to stay in Athens, and you’ll find the rest of the country in the guide to where to stay in Greece.

Travel ressources & websites I use all the time 👇

• Booking.com has the best offers on hotels and unique places to stay
• GetYourGuide is the best place to book tours & activities with free cancellation
• Welcome Pickups is the best & safest place to pre-book airport transfers

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